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xO"' ^^'^'^'^-^ "^^ ^~ -\'"'l 



The Book of 
Water Gardening 



THE 



BOOK OF WATER 
GARDENING 



GIVING IN FULL DETAIL ALL THE PRACTICAL INFORMATION NECESSARY TO 

THE SELECTION, GROUPING AND SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION OF 

AQUATIC AND OTHER PLANTS REQUIRED IN THE MAKING OF 

A WATER GARDEN AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. AND 

COVERING ALL CONDITIONS FROM THAT OF THE 

AMATEUR WITH A FEW PLANTS IN TUBS 

TO THE LARGE ESTATE OR PARK 



BY 

PETER BISSET 



PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED WITH ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY HALFTONES 
SEVENTEEN DIAGRAMS AND TWO DOUBLE PACE PLATES 



NEW YORK 

A. T. De La Mare Printing and Publishing Co. ltd. 

1907 
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS! 

Two Copies Received j 
JU^ 22 190/^ 
» Cooynsrht Entry 

CLASS /^ Uc, No, 

COPY b. 



Copyright, 1905 



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A T. De La Mare Printing and Publishing Co. Ltd. 
All Rights Reserved 




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CHAPTER PAGE 

I Foreword 12 

II Ponds and Basins 17 

The Importance of a Carefully Selected Site — ^Making Artiiicial Ponds.. 17 

An Excellent Material for Artiiicial Pond Making 19 

Excavating 20 

Natural Ponds 21 

Basins for the Amateur 25 

III Windbreaks and Margins 31 

IV Soil • 42 

Making the Compost — Fertilizers 42 

Soil for Seedlings 43 

V Planting and Wintering 44 

Planting in Soil on Bottom of Pond 44 

Planting in Soil in Boxes or Tubs 46 

Cultural Directions for Aquatics 47 

Wintering Tubers and Rhizomes 47 

VI Hardy Water Lilies 49 

Selections of the Best Hardy Water Lilies 60 

VII Nelumbiums 61 

Their Desirability in the Water Garden 61 

In Boxes Submerged in Pond 62 

Grown in Boxes or Half Barrels — Grown in Tubs on the Lawn 64 

[4] 



CONTENTS-Continued 

CHAPTER 

PAGE 

VIII Heating the Tropical Lily Basin 6q 

IX Tender or Tropical Water Lilies 74 

Day Flowering ja 

Night Flowering 81 

X Victoria Regia 88 

XI The Small Water Garden 98 

Selections of the Best Water Lilies and A(iuatic Plants for the Beginner 98 

XII Miscellaneous Aquatic Plants 100 

XIII The Aquatic Plant Greenhouse 115 

Water Lilies for Winter Flowering 121 

XIV Propagation of Water Lilies 123 

Raising Water Lilies from Seed 123 

Propagation of Tender Water Lilies 126 

By Division — Hybridizing and Seed Saving 130 

Water Lilies that Bear Seed 131 

XV The Commercial Cut Flower Grower 133 

XVI Tender Sub-Tropical Plants for Margins and Borders 137 

XVII Hardy Perennials for Margin and Border Plantinc 144 

XVIII Native Orchids, Sarracenias and Other Bog Plants 165 

XIX Hardy Ferns 172 

XX Ornamental Grasses and Bamboos I79 

XXI Insects, Diseases and Enemies 186 

Aphides — A Destructive Leaf Miner 186 

The Nymphsea Leaf Beetle — Other Larval Pests 187 

A Fungoid Disease 18S 

Algae — Confervas — Rats and Mice 189 

The Water Snake — Turtles — Crawfish 190 

XXII Gold and Other Fish for Ponds 191 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Basin for the Cultivation of Water Lilies Frontispiece 

Amateur's Water Garden, An 3 

Victoria regia (Tricker's variety), Pond View of 8 

Nymphsea Marliacea rosea. Ornamental Sprays of I5 

Hardy Nymphasa in a Large, Artificial Basin 16 

Victoria regia in Lincoln Park, Chicago, III 21 

Inlet for Water to Pond (Diagram) • 22 

A Terrace Water Garden (Diagram ) 23 

Plan for a Brick Wall (Diagram) 24 

An Old I\Iill Lead on an Amateur's Place (Two Views) 26 

Small Water Gardens on the Lawn, Suggestive Designs for (Four Diagrams) 27 

Water Lily Basin on the Lawn, Suggestion for a (Diagram) 28 

Water Lily Basin for the Lawn, A Small (Diagram) 29 

Fountain Basin, Washington, D. C • • 30 

Pines and Spruces for the Protection of the Water Garden, A Windbreak of Z3 

Water's Edge Planting — Hardy Hybrid Rhododendrons, 35 ; Rhododendron maximum. 

The Great Leaved Laurel 2,7 

Kalmia latifolia at the Edge of a Pond 39 

Amateur's Water Garden, An (Three Views) 41 

[5] 



ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued 



PAGE 



Nymph.-ca odorata W. B. Shaw. 50; Nymphsa odorata Mary exquisita, 52; Nymphsea 
alba, 53; Nynipha;a Marliacea albida, 54; Nymphsea Marliacea chromatella, 55; 
Nympha'a Gladstoniana— Nymphiea tetragona, 56; Nymphsea odorata Luciana, 

57 ; Nymph^a James Brydon, 5; ; Nymphsea gloriosa 59 

Amateur's Pool, An 60 

Root or Rhizome of Nelumbium 63 

Nelumbium Pekinensis rubrum, 65; Nelumbium roseum plenum, 66; Nelumbium Pekin- 

ensis rubrum flore pleno, 67 ; Nelumbium Shiroman 68 

A Heated Pool, A Suggestion for (Two Diagrams) 70 

Heating a Pool or Basin from the Boiler of the Dwelling-House (Three Diagrams)... T2 

Nymphsea gigantea, 74; Nymphasa Zanzibarensis rosea, 76; Nymphsea pulcherrima, "JT, 

Nymphjea Pennsylvania, 78; Nymphasa gracilis, 79; Nymphsea William Stone, 80; 

Nymphasa dentata superba, 82; Nymphsea dentata magnifica, 82; Nymphsea 

Jubilee, 83; Nymphsea Devoniensis, 84; Nymphsea rubra rosea, 85; Nymphsea 

O'Marana, 85 ; Nymphsea Sturtevanti, 86; Nymphsea Bisseti 87 

Euryale ferox. Flower of 88 

Victoria regia, A Fine Plant of, Grown Without Artificial Heat 89 

Victoria regia, Two Well-Grown Specimens of the 90 

Victoria regia, Flower of 9- 

Victoria regia, Under Side of a Leaf of 93 

Victoria regia Trickeri, Flower of 94 

Victoria regia Randi, Flower of 95 

Nymphsea Marliacea rosea. Sprays of 99 

Aponogeton distachyum, Leaf and Flower of — Cape Pond Weed 101 

Cyperus Papyrus — The True Egyptian Paper Plant 102 

Eichhornia speciosa — Water Hyacinth 104 

Limnocharis Humboldtii — Water Poppy 107 

Ouvirandra fenestralis — Lace Leaf Plant 109 

Water Plants, Eight Desirable 1 1 1 

Nymphsea Marliacea chromatella, Sprays of 1 14 

Aquatic Plant Greenhouse at Schenley Park, Pittsburg, Pa 116 

Aquatic Plant Greenhouse of Samuel Untermeyer, Esq., at Greystonc, Yonkcrs, N. Y. .. 117 

Greenhouse for Aquatic Plants, Curvilinear, Sectional View of 118 

Greenhouse, Interior Plan of Aquatic Curvilinear 119 

Aquatic Plant Pool at Bronx Park, N. Y. (Before the Water is Turned On) 120 

Seed Vessels, Types of 124 

Roots of the Water Lilies, Types of 127 

Roots of Hardy Water Lilies, Typical 129 

Hardy Water Lilies, Types of 132 

Nelumbium speciosum at H. A. Dreer's. Rivcrton, N. J 135 

Calathea (maranta) zebrina 138 

Sub-Tropical Plants at Water's Edge 139 

Cyperus alternifolius. The Umbrella Plant 1..10 

Fatsia papyrifera ( Rice Paper Plant ) 141 

Musa Enscte, Abyssinian Banana 142 

Acorus Calamus varicgata — Variegated Sweet Flag 145 

Bocconia cordata 1.17 

Clematis paniculata 148 

Dicentra spectabilis — Bleeding Heart 149 

Digitalis purpurea — Foxglove i cjo 

Gunnera scabra 151 

Hemerocallis fulva 15 :> 

Iris Isevigata ( Ksempferi) 154 

Mertensia Virginica— Virginia Cowslip or Blue Bell 156 

Peltandra undulata 1^7 

Pontederia cordata — Pickerel Weed 158 

[6] 



ILLUSTRATIONS— Concludea 

PAGE 

Pyrethriim uliginosiini — Giant Ox-Eye Daisy 159 

Spiraea Aruncus — Goat's Beard Spiraea 161 

Thalia dealbata 162 

Typha latifolia — Cat-Tail 164 

Cvprinedium puhescents — Large Yellow Lady's Slipper 166 

Cypripedium reginae 167 

Sarracenia flava — Pitcher Plant, 168 ; Sarracenia purpurea 169 

Dionjea muscipula — Venus's Fly-Trap 170 

Rustic House at Pond 171 

Ferns, Fine Clumps of, for a Shady Piank 173 

Dryopteris marginalis — Rock Shield Fern 174 

Flowering Ferns, Fronds of 175 

Osmunda regalis, Plant of. The Royal Fern 176 

Ferns, Fronds of Six Varieties, 177 ; Fronds of Four Varieties 178 

Arundo Donax macrophylla 179 

Phyllostachys aurea— Bambusa aurea 181 

Erianthus Ravennne 182 

Eulalia gracillima univittata 183 

Gynerium argenteum — Pampas Grass 184 

Eulalia Japonica variegata 185 

Gold Fish — Common Gold Fish and Golden Ide. 193 

Gold Fish, Types of Fine Japanese 195 

DOUBLE PAGE PLATES 

Water Garden at Twin Oaks, The, Washington, D. C Between pages 80-81 

Formal Water Garden, Design of a ( Diagram) Between pages 144-145 




NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA ROSEA 



[7] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 




THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



PREFACE 



THERE is no more fascinating pursuit connected with Horticulture, 
none that gives greater pleasure and enjoyment to the owner, than 
the cultivation of a water garden. This is Ijrought about from var- 
ious reasons, chief among which is the important part played by water in all well- 
ordered landscape effects ; secondly, the wealth and diversity of color, the great 
range of beauty, the interesting historical associations of many of the water plants 
employed and their unique manner of flowering — for some varieties there are 
that unfold their untold loveliness when kissed by the first rays of the morning 
sun ; others, again, like fairv craft, anchored in a miniature moonlit sea, disclose 
their gorgeousness and glory to the Queen of Night, and hold sweet communion 
with the silent stars. Then, too, there is the attractiveness which the plants nec- 
essary to the embellishment of the environments of a water garden present. 

While the charm of running streams, lakes and ponds in the landscape has 
ever been patent to all Nature lovers, it is only of late years that the intrinsic 
worth of the water garden proper and its lovely denizens, both vegetable and 
finny, as part of the adornment of public parks and private grounds, has be- 
come fully appreciated. 

A little over half a century ago the only plant of importance found in greater 
or less expanses of water, in most landscape designs, was the Richardia alba, pop- 
ularly known as the Calla or Lily of the Nile, immense specimens of which are 
recorded. The beautiful native "Pond Lilies," floating peacefully, silently, on 
the surface of pond or pool, their gorgeous blooms sparkling in the Summer sun, 
had always been admired ; collections of water lilies had been gotten together by 
botanical institutions, but as yet their decorative value in garden work had not 
been fully realized. 

We read that in England, in 1849, when the aquatic greenhouse was built at 
Chatsworth for the sole purpose of growing Victoria regia, Nymphseas and other 
water plants, it was regarded as a new departure in ornamental gardening. It 
was nearly thirty years later when the capabilities of water lilies in garden work 

[9] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



began to receive deserved attention in the United States, the seeming neglect of 
or indifference to them here being accounted for by the fact that the varieties 
then available were not of a character to appeal to the general public, being 
mostly tender kinds, needing special care and facilities possessed by but few- 
growers. There was, of course, a fair number of varieties of the hardy white 
Nymphseas, but it was not until the discovery of the pink sport of Nymphrea 
odorata on Cape Cod, and the introduction of Nymphsea alba rosea from Lake 
Payer, Sweden, a few years afterward, that interest in these plants in America 
was quickened. 

Perhaps the greatest impetus given to water gardening, both at home and 
abroad, resulted about the year 1887, when M. Marliac, a Prench specialist, intro- 
duced his magnificent hardy varieties, many of them still unsurpassed in shades 
of yellow and of pink. 

Since that time the enthusiasm in water gardening everywhere has kept on 
increasing. Hybridizers have been bringing forth new and improved varieties, 
both hardy and tender, of resplendent colors and graceful forms, and to-day there 
is hardly a garden of any pretensions without its water lily pool or basin, quietly 
nestling amid its appropriate surroundings. Our park superintendents now fully 
recognize the attraction which the water lily pond possesses for the general pub- 
lic, and are catering to this admirable popular taste by the installation of water 
gardens in these breathing spots of the people. 

But it is not alone to the gardens of the wealthy, nor to the public parks, 
that the cultivation of water lilies is confined. These plants are grown and ad- 
mired by hundreds throughout the land to whom the art of gardening in its every 
phase forcibly appeals — a taste that is ever increasing with the growth of our 
population and which, above all others, reflects the refined character of our people. 
And it is a branch of gardening that conies well within the limits of the purse 
of the masses, the necessary first outlay for the full enjoyment of water lily cul- 
tivation being practically nominal. 

In recent years a considerable amount of fugitive literature on the culture 
of the water lily has appeared in various periodicals ; and one or more books as 
well are devoted to the subject. The object of the present work is not to sup- 
plant, but rather to supplement what has already been so ably presented. 

The volume now offered contains a record of the author's practical experience 
with this class of charming plants, extending over a period of fifteen years. It 

[lol 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



is a heart to heart talk, devoid ut htcrary pretension, with those of kinch'cd tastes 
to my own, and it is intended to form a working I'ttdc iiicciiiii which may lead to 
a better knowledge and a more complete understanding of everything connected 
with the cultivation of a race of garden subjects which, for beauty and grace, 
comprehensiveness of colors and historical associations, to me, stands unrivaled 
in all Flora's realm. 

The preparation of the illustrations contained in this volume, the great ma- 
jority of wdiich have been made by the author direct from the material obtainable 
in the water garden under his personal supervision, has been a labor of love for 
some years, and it is his trust that they will add to the interest of the book and 
prove an incitement to its readers. 

For the preparation of the manuscript for the printer I am indebted to Mr. 
Alexander Wallace, Editor of The Morists' Exchange, New York. 

I also desire to acknowledge the many valuable suggestions made and hcl])- 
ful aid otherwise rendered by Mr. A- T. De La Mare, president of the publish- 
ing firm, distributors of the work. 

My earnest desire is that my interested readers, who follow the advice herein 
contained, will reap from the initting of it into practical operation the great 
]/ieasure in this healthful branch oi gardening practice that has been mine these 
many years. 

PETER L51SSET. 
Twin Oaks, Washington, D. C, May, 1907. 




II] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENINQ 



CHAPTER I 

FOREWORD 

HISTORY records that from the earHest times it has been customary 
for mankind to recognize in certain plants and flowers some peculiar 
form of intrinsic beauty or economic value sufficient to induce the 
selection of these subjects from among their fellows as worthy of the highest 
adoration and honor. Such a distinction has been accorded water lilies, dating 
back to the remotest ages. Students of botanical lore tell us that the Nelumbium 
speciosum, as it is universally known, probably among the first plants to be thus 
singled out, was held sacred by the ancient Egyptians, the sculptured floral repre- 
sentations found among the ruins of temples in Egypt testifying to the venera- 
tion paid to this plant by the dwellers in the land of the Pharoahs. And not only 
in Egypt was the Lotus worshipped, but it was also deemed sacred by the natives 
of India, Tibet, China and Japan, being to a greater or less extent still employed 
in religious invocations and ceremonies in these countries. It is worthy of men- 
tion, however, that some modern writers challenge the heretofore generally ac- 
cepted tradition that Nelumbium speciosum (Nelumbo nucifera) is the "sacred 
Lotus" of the Nile. Although Theophrastus and other ancient historians asserl; 
that it is indigenous there, in recent writings it is stated that Nelumbium spec- 
iosum is not now found in Egypt or in Africa. Wilkinson, in his "Ancient 
Egyptians," states : "It is never introduced into the sculptures as a sacred em- 
blem, or indeed as a production of the country." One of the most exhaustive 
works dealing with a discussion of this subject is that excellent volume entitled, 
"The Grammar of the Lotus." by Professor Wm. H. Goodyear, M. A., Curator 
of the Department of Fine Arts in the Brooklyn (N. Y.) Institute of Arts and 
Sciences. In that work Professor Goodyear points out that it is Nymphsea Lotus or 
N. coerulea, the former the white, the latter the blue Lotus, and both native Egyp- 
tian plants, which is figured in the ornamental patterns of the monuments. "The 
'Rose Lotus'," adds Professor Goodyear, "may possibly be realistically repre- 
sented in ancient Egyptian paintings, just as the Palm and many other plants 

[12] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENINg 



appear, but such cases must be extremely rare, as none can be found in the great 
foHo pubhcations of Eg-yptian antiquities, or in the typical ornaments exhibited 
by Egyptian museums. As far as the typical ornaments or typical patterns are 
concerned, the 'Rose Lotus' is not to be found." It is now generally understood 
that the plant was introduced into Egypt from India, its native habitat. 

Beauty of flower alone, however, was not the only quality possessed by the 
Nelumbium compelling the admiration and veneration of the ancients, for the 
plant had as well utilitarian properties that appealed to them and rendered it of 
considerable economic value. The root stocks and seeds were prepared and 
eaten as food by the inhabitants of China, India and Australia. In Gary's 
translation of Herodotus, speaking of the Egyptians, it is recorded as follows: 
''But to obtain food more easily, they have the following inventions: when the 
river is full, and has made the plains like a sea, great numbers of lilies, which the 
Egyptians call lotus, spring up in the water; these they gather and dry in the 
sun ; then having pounded the middle of the lotus, which resembles a poppy, they 
make bread of it and bake it. The root also of this lotus is fit for food, and is 
tolerably sweet, and is round and of the size of an apple. There are also other 
lilies, like roses, that grow in the river, the fruit of which is contained in a sep- 
arate pod that springs up from the root, in form very like a wasp's nest ; in this 
there are many berries fit to be eaten, of the size of an olive stone, and they arc 
eaten both fresh and dried." It is believed that from this statement of Herodotus 
the popular error has arisen that the Lotus was a native Egyptian plant, and, 
although he made no reference to the subject of Egyptian ornament, that Nel- 
umbium speciosum was the typical sacred plant of Egypt. Nelumbium specio- 
?um has also a medicinal value which lies in the viscid juice of the leaf stalks. 

Though one species of Nelumbium — luteum, the charming yellow-flowered 
Lotus — is indigenous to North America, it was not until some time in the sev- 
enties that Nelumbium speciosum (Nelumbo nucifera) reached this country from 
Japan through the instrumentality of the late Thomas Hogg, an Oriental traveler, 
who introduced many of our best known plants in cultivation from that wonder- 
ful country. Mr. Hogg sent roots of the Nelumbium speciosum to the late Isaac 
Buchanan, florist, who planted them in a running stream on his grounds in 
Astoria, Long Island, but, unfortunately, they perished. At a subsequent date, 
Samuel Henshaw, a well-known landscape gardener, narrates having received 
some roots from the same source, which he planted in an artificial pond in a 
garden on Staten Island, New York, where they grew and flourished. Mr. Hen- 

[13] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



shaw's success with this and other aquatics led him to introduce water gardens 
into various landscape designs carried out by him, he having first become ac- 
quainted with the merits of the water lilies at Chatsworth, England. 

The cultivation of the Nelumbium as a commercial plant in the United States 
was first engaged in by E. D. Sturtevant, then of Bordentown, N. J., now of 
California, who. about the same time as Mr. Henshaw received his tubers from 
Japan, secured a number from Kew Gardens, England. These were planted in a 
sheltered mill pond in shallow water where their hardiness was fully demon- 
strated, stock obtained from them being distributed to all parts of the United 
States. 

No less interesting and beautiful are the various forms of Nymphaea, as 
well as the gigantic Victorias, historical data regarding the latter of which will 
be found in another chapter. Nymphcxa odorata was probably the first foreign 
Nymphaea to reach England, having, it is said, been introduced into that country 
about 1786, although the English species, Nymphaea alba, had been recognized 
long anterior to that date. In addition to their exquisite flowers some of the 
Nymphaeas possess economic properties. The root stocks of Nymphaea alba con- 
tain gallic acid, and on that account are said to be useful for dyeing purposes; 
they also contain a large quantity of starch. The French use them in the prep- 
aration of a kind of beer. 

Water lilies are found in a wild state in nearly all of the countries of the 
world. From South America we get the well-known Victoria regia ; from Mexi- 
co, Nymphaea Mexicana and Nymphaea gracilis ; from our own country come the 
charming Nymphaea odorata, Nymphaea tuberosa, Nymphaea flava, Nymphaea 
elegans, and the beautiful Nelumbium luteum already mentioned. From Europe 
we get the chaste white water lily, Nymphaea alba ; the red-colored one, Nymphaea 
alba rosea, which is a native of Sweden ; also Nymphaea Candida from Bohemia. 
From far ofif Australia comes one of the finest of the blue water lilies, Nymphaea 
gigantea. From China we get that little gem, Nymphaea tetragona or pygmaea; 
from India the deep, red-colored night flowering Nymphaea rubra, likewise the 
first cousin of the Victoria regia, Euryale ferox ; from Egypt the Nymphaea 
Lotus, and from Africa the deep royal purple Nymphaea Zanzibarensis, while 
from Japan the many beautiful and stately forms of the Nelumbium are obtained. 

The colors of the flowers range from the purest white through soft delicate 
shades of pink to the deepest reds ; from the deepest purple through the lighter 
shades of blue to the palest blue imaginable, and from pale yellow through the 
deeper shades to salmon. 

[14] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



Nearly all of the flowers have a delicious fragrance, ranging from the deli- 
cate tea odor of Nympha?a tetragona through the stronger scented Nymphaea 
odoratas to the almost overpowering vanilla scented Victoria regia. 

There is also a great difference in the hours of expanding their blooms. 
Many of the water lilies open their flowers soon after daybreak, others later in 
the morning, remaining open for the greater part of the day ; while the 
evening is ushered in by the opening of the night flowering Nymphaea Lotus, 
Nymphaea rubra and their host of varieties, these remaining open throughout the 
night and well on to noon of the following day; the enchanting Victoria regia 
also throws open its cream-colored flowers as the day darkens into night. 

"Misty moonlight, faintly falling 

O'er the lake at eventide. 
Shows a thousand gleaming lilies 

On the rippling waters wide. 

V 

"White as snow, the circling petals 

Cluster round each golden star. 
Rising, falling, with the waters, 

Moving, yet at rest they are. 

"Winds may blow, and skies may darken, 

Rain may pour, and waves may swell ; 
Deep beneath the changeful eddies 

Lily roots arc fastened well." 

Water lilies differ from each other not only in the color of their blooms and 
their time of opening, but also in the length of their flower stems. Many of the 
blossoms float on the surface of the water; others have stems that carry the 
flowers from three to fifteen inches above the surface, the blooms ranging in size 
from those of the little Nymphaea pygmaea of two inches to that of the wonderful 
Nymphaea dentata of fifteen inches in diameter. 

The plants also dift'er in the characteristics and color of their foliage ; many 
have floating leaves, others have the center leaves raised above the water, espe- 
cially those of Nymphaea tuberosa ancestry. Some of the leaves are green, 
others reddish bronze, while many are beautifully mottled with chocolate spots 
on a green ground. 

The great variation in the form of flower, in the colors, and in the growth 
of the plants, coming as they do from many countries, lend to the occupants of the 
water garden a charm and a fascination that no other style of garden possesses. 

[15] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 




THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



CHAPTER II 

PONDS AND BASINS 

Concerning the Imjftortance of a CarefuVy Selected Site 




I 



N selecting the location of a pond, or pool, in 
which to grow water lilies, the ground should 
be gone over carefully, and a site chosen 
where a supply of water, either from a natural 
stream or from an artificial source, will be pro- 
vided. The location should, if possible, be 
sheltered by buildings, by a planting of trees and 
shrubs far enough away from the edge of the 
pond that they will not overshadow the water, 
or by a high bank on the northwest, northeast, 
and north, but open toward the south, southwest, 
and southeast. This will insure the full benefit of the sun's rays in warming the 
water, and, at the same time, afiford protection from high winds that soon would 
ruin the tropical growth of the tender water lilies and the sub-tropical plants in 
the surrounding borders. If the pond is intended for the growth of hardy kinds 
only, it will not be necessary to protect it, as these will thrive in a much lower 
temperature than the tender ones, and the leaf surface of the hardy sorts is so 
small that they are never seriously damaged by the wind. 

flaking Artificial Ponds 

Having decided upon the location of the pond, stakes should be driven into 
the ground, a few feet apart, outlining the edge. In making a pond for the cul- 
tivation of water lilies for pleasure, it is well not to have it so wide that one can- 
not enjoy the flowers at close range. The greatest width should not exceed 75 
feet. The flowers never rise above the water more than fifteen inches, except 
in the case of the Nelumbiums, which grow to a height of from two to eight feet 
out of the water. But, \\n\h water lilies proper, one has to get near them to en- 
joy the full beauty and exquisite coloring of the flowers. 

[17] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



If it is desired to have a greater expanse of water than one 75 feet in width, 
an island, located near the center of the pond and connected with the mainland 
by a rustic footbridge, should be formed. This island, which should be irregular 
in outline, and of varying width and height, will afiford an opportunity to utilize 
many rare and beautiful plants suitable for the margins, also flowering shrubs 
and trees, which, by a judicious selection and careful planting so that they will 
not shade the pond, will add materially to the charm of the whole when finished. 
The outline of the island could be marked, at intervals, by heavy boulders, or 
rocks, so placed as to create a natural effect. 

The location and size of the pond decided upon, and the outline marked by 
the stakes, a level should be taken from a point determined either by a natural 
feature, the supply of water, or the surface of the ground. For best efifect the 
pond should be slightly below the surrounding level, as this will permit of plants 
being grown right up to the water's edge, and present a more natural appearance 
than if the edge of the pond were elevated above the ground. If one is not 
skilled in the use of the spirit level, or the surveyor's instrument, it will be ad- 
visable to get a surveyor to run the levels, so that they shall be exact. 

After securing the levels, the soil is excavated and thrown up on the banks, 
or carted away to fill depressions, or low ground, in the neighborhood of the 
pond. As the pond will generally be located in the lowest part of the grounds, 
existing depressions filled in with this surplus soil and elevated to the same level 
will add much to the beauty of the whole. The sides of the pond should slope at 
an angle of from 40° to 45" if to be puddled with clay. 

The pond should be excavated to a depth of two feet six inches. This will 
allow of four inches of clay on the bottom, eight inches of soil, and one foot six 
inches of water. If the method of growing the plants in boxes or tubs is to be 
practiced, the boxes would take the place of the soil, and should be twelve inches 
in depth. 

If the soil is of a sandy or gravelly nature, through which the water will 
drain ofif, some means must then be employed to make the pond watertight, so as 
to avoid this waste, and provide against the reduction of the temperature of the 
water through having to supply more to take the place of that lost. Water from 
springs, or from an open stream, is generally from 15° to 20° colder than that 
already in the pond which has been warmed by the sun's rays, and will lower 
the temperature of the water in the pond considerably if the loss by seepage is 
very great. The common method, and the least expensive in first cost, is to 

[18] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



puddle the bottom and sides of the pond with clay. This material can be ob- 
tained in nearly all localities if one digs deep enough to secure it. The clay is 
taken in slices of about four inches in thickness, of uniform size, and is placed on 
the sides and bottom of the pond in the same maimer that sod is laid down to 
secure a lawn. Then the whole is rammed hard and smooth with a heavy ram- 
mer, care being taken that all joints are closed and no apertures left through 
which the water can escape. If the clay is too hard to be easily beaten into place 
it can be made plastic by sprinkling water over it, allowing it to soften a little, 
when it can be rammed into place. 

If a good grade of clay, that will cut into slices, is not available, as stifif a 
clay as can be procured should be taken, chopped into small pieces, mixed with 
water, turned and chopped several times until all is of the consistency of stifif 
putty or mortar ; this can then be spread over the bottom and sides, in layers, 
until of the thickness of four inches or more ; and after the whole has dried some- 
what it can be tamped in place. While this puddling method is the most econom- 
ical as regards first cost, it really is the most expensive in the end, as the clay is 
always in more or less danger of being displaced by the person in charge walking 
around the pond while caring for the plants. The clay is also very easily pene- 
trated by that great pest of all such ponds, the crawfish, and even that bane of 
the water lily grower's life, the water snake, finds the clay easy to puncture. 

S^n Excellent J^aterial for Artificial 'Pond JVlaking 

The very best material that can be used for the formation of all ponds, 
tanks, and pools is, without doubt, hydraulic cement. An inexpensive and easily 
made artificial stone can be had that will stand the test of all climates, be proof 
against all boring pests, and at the same time will not cost much more than the 
clay method described. If cement for the walls and bottoms is to be used, this 
decision should be reached before any of the soil is excavated. After the pond 
has been outlined, another row of stakes should be inserted from six to twelve 
inches away from the first, forming a double row of stakes. The soil between 
these rows of stakes should be excavated to the required depth of the pond, care 
being taken not to damage the sides of the ditch in digging, as this excavation 
will act as a mold for the wall. If, by misadventure, the sides should be dam- 
aged, repair the same by inserting rough boards, so as to have the wall of uni- 
form width. The width of the wall will depend on the degree of frost pressure 

[19] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



that will be exerted upon it during the Winter. Six inches in width will be am- 
ple where the Winters are mild ; but for the neighborhood of Washington, D. C, 
and farther north, the width must be from nine to twelve inches. It is advisable to 
have the walls wider at the bottom than at the top. They should slope toward 
the top on both sides ; this will allow the soil, in freezing, to lift upward, and so 
release the pressure on the walls. 

After the soil has been excavated from this space, the level of the wall should 
be determined, and stakes driven in as guides, so that the top of the wall when 
finished shall be six inches below the level of the surface ground. This will allow 
of grass, or other plants, to be grown on the top of the wall, thus hiding it and 
presenting a natural view in harmony with the environments ; or the wall may 
be carried up to form a coping. This space should be filled in with concrete, 
composed of one part Portland cement, three parts sand, four parts gravel, and 
three parts broken stone. First mix the sand and cement by turning until thor- 
oughly incorporated, then mix the gravel and broken stone with the cement and 
sand. The whole should be turned several times until the difi:erent ingredients 
are thoroughly intermixed, when water should be added, and the mass turned 
until it is of the nature of a sticky paste ; add the water sparingly, or some of the 
cement will be washed away. 

When the concrete is ready, it can be conveyed in wheelbarrows to the ex- 
cavation, poured in, and rammed hard into position. The stones used should 
not be larger than two inches in diameter, and the gravel from one and a quarter 
inches down to the size of a pea, the idea being to have sufficient of the small 
gravel to fill all the interstices between the stones, and the sand and cement to fill 
in between the small gravel, making the whole wall one solid stone. Care should 
be taken to secure a good solid foundation or the walls will be apt to crack 
through settling. If the ground is soft, large stone should be rammed in to give 
sufficient foundation. 

Excavating 

After the wall has dried out sufficiently, the work of excavating the pond 
proper can be proceeded with. Remove all the soil to the level of the bottom of 
the wall, then place a large pipe at the bottom and near the end where the over- 
flow will be, to act as a draw-ofif pipe for the emptying of the pond. A fair- 
sized hole should be made below the level of this pipe, somewhere in the pond, to 
provide a pool for the fish when the water is drawn off. The bottom of the 

[20] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



pond should be covered with six inches of concrete, mixed the same as that for 
the walls, and well rammed. After the whole is completed in the rough and all 
soil adhering to the sides removed, a one inch coating of cement and sand should 
be put on the walls and bottom, composed of one part Portland cement to three 
parts finely screened sand, mixed with water, and applied with a smoothing 
trowel, to give a perfectly smooth surface. 




VICTORIA REGIA IN LINCOLN PARK, CHICAGO. ILL. 



J\atural Ponds 

So far we have only treated of artificial ponds, or pools, which require to be 
excavated. In many places there are natural ponds which, at little expense, can 
be made very beautiful and a joy to their owners. First consider the source of 
the water supply : is it subject from any cause to a wash that would render it 
at times unsightly by the quantity of muddy water carried into it by heavy rains? 
Or is there a stream passing through the pond from springs which, being colder, 
will lower the temperature of the water it contains? All streams should be di- 
verted so that they cannot enter the pond unless desired by the owner or care- 
taker. This can be easily done by an open ditch, dug so as to skirt the pond, and 

[21] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



at some distance from it. The banks can be adorned with a choice collection of 
plants that will thrive in such a place. Or the stream, if not too large, can be led 
through a terra-cotta pipe to a point below the pond where it can then proceed on 
its natural course. The water supply can be taken from the stream at a point 
where the source is above the level of the pond, and the water let in through a 
terra-cotta pipe, or by an open ditch which can be made very beautiful by planting 
the sides of it with moisture-loving plants, a list of which will be found enum- 
erated in another chapter. Some means should be provided for closing the pipe 
automatically, so that the flow of water can be cut off in time of storm, or at the 



^ Y" /f£M0V£O TO /ADJUST B/ili. flO/ir 



S^hC6/f P/P£ 6/^r£ 




INLET FOR WATER TO POND 

Showing a satisfactory device by which storm ^vater is excluded from the AVater Garder 



will of the owner. The author has a very satisfactory arrangement for this pur- 
pose. The supply pipe is fitted with a "sewer pipe gate" which is shown in detail 
in the sketch "Inlet for Water to Pond." The water from the stream passes through 
a screen of 14-inch galvanized wire mesh, flowing around the sides of the gate 
into the inlet pipe. The ball-float will rise and fall with the depth of water in 
the stream, adjusting itself automatically. The volume of water to be admitted 
into the pond is controlled by bending the rod of the ball-float. When the stream 
is swollen by a storm and an inflow of muddy water, the ball-float rises, 
completely closing the inlet so that no water passes through the pipe until the 
stream has regained its normal level. When it is desired to admit the full ca- 
pacity of the pipe, the ball can be unscrewed, allowing the gate to open wide. 
This gate can be purchased from any dealer in plumbers' supplies, and any in- 
telligent machinist or plumber can fit up the arrangement as described. 

[22] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



If no stream is available the water can be taken from a well, or from the city 
supply where such exists. Wherever it can be carried out the sup])ly should flow 
into the pond naturally ; that is to say. without beiuc; forced in by means of a 
pump. If, however, this is not i^racticable, an hydraulic ram is an inexpensive and 
efficient means to elevate the water to the desired height. A ram of the smallest 
size, which will cost about $9.00, requires a flow of from two to three gallons of 
water per minute to work it. and a fall or head of three feet ; with this head the 
ram will pump from ten to fifteen gallons of water per hour, raising the water to 
a height of from fifteen to twenty feet above the level of the ram. For every 
additional head of a foot the ram will raise the water from five to ten feet higher. 
Rams can be purchased of sufficient capacity to deliver up to four gallons of water 
per minute. 

Another very satisfactory means to lift the water to a higher level is to use a 
water wheel on the axle of which is placed an eccentric ; to this is attached the 
piston of the pump. This is a very economical arrangement to lift water, the 
wheel being in perfect control by means of a valve placed on the feed pipe that 
supplies the water to drive the wheel. One point in which it is superior to the ram 
is that the water required to drive the wheel is not wasted, as the suction pipe 
from the pump can be placed in the rear of the wheel, and the water, after pass- 
ing over the wheel, can be pumped up. This will be of great importance where 
the water supply is limited. The wheel is operated with but small attention, as 
there is little about it to get out of order, it merely requiring that the oil cups on 
the bearings be kept supplied with oil, and new suction cups placed in the pump 
as needed. A wheel of this description has been in use for many years, working 
quietly night and day pumping water to an elevation of nearly one hundred and 
fifty feet, where the water enters a tank in the attic of the residence, overflowing 
from there to a tank in the stables and overflowing again to the stable yard. 



3m3srzir=E£ci: 




" f c.o/v 



A TERRACE WATER GARDEN 

A suggestion for a Water Garden on the top of a terrace. The circular pool to be filled with Nelumhiums, the side pools with 

Hardy or Tender Water Lilies 

[23] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



If it is not practicable to use either of these methods a windmill or gasoline 
engine can be employed to lift the water. 

It is not necessary, nor desirable, that a stream of water should be contin- 
ually passing into the pond, if tender lilies are growing in it. All that is re- 
quired is that the water lost through evaporation or leakage be replaced by a fresh 
supply. Many are afraid of malaria and mosquitoes proceeding from a pond un- 
less a continuous stream of water is passing through it; this fear is groundless. 
If a pond is properly stocked with plant growth, and with a sufficient number of 
fish of the proper kinds, there will be no malaria or stagnation. And as for the 
mosquitoes, the fish will take care of all the larvae so that not one of these will 
ever reach the adult stage. 

the lawn near the dwelling house, and 
made of concrete or masonry, walls and 
bottom, a water supply that will be found 
adequate for all purposes in the Northeast- 
ern States, or where the rainfall is sufficient, 
can be provided by the watershed from the 
roof of the dwelling, led through a pipe into 
the pool. This supply will be found ample 
to restore all loss by evaporation, and will 
keep the water in good condition for the 
growth of aquatic plants. 

It is always desirable to have a pipe of 
sufficient capacity laid from the bottom of 
the pond, or tank, to the waste way, or 
stream, that carries off the waste or overflow 
of water, it being necessary to empty the 
pond or tank at least twice a year for the 
proper preparation of soil and the planting, 
and again in the Fall for the removal of the 
roots of the tender lilies. This pipe should 
be of large size so that the work of emptying 
can be done quickly. A straightway valve 
fitted to this pipe, and located on the bank 
just outside the pond, will be found very 
helpful and a great convenience when it becomes necessary to empty the water 

[24] 




/■ 



I CO/VCfiS/e 



^ 

/o; ■ 



Plan for a brick wall, on a foundation of concrete 
faced 'witb one incK of sand and cement mortar 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



Another method of securing a natural pond, and one often pursued, where 

a stream of water runs through the place, is to form a dam across the stream, the 

soil being excavated to give the pond the desired shape and used to make the dam 

or to bring the surrounding ground up to a level. This style of pond, however, 

is rarely satisfactory and is not to be recommended. The dam is always a weak 

point, and being "made earth" the water can easily percolate through it and form 

a leak. The stream will also have to be diverted so as to prevent it flooding the 

pond, an operation which will about equalize the cost of excavating the entire 

pond. 

'Basins for the Amateur 

These can be made of concrete as already described or built of brick as 
desired. The depth will be the same as that recommended for the larger ponds, 
namely, two feet six inches. If it is decided to construct the walls of brick, they 
should be built as shown in illustration and the two sides of the walls covered with 
a coating of cement and sand, using sand that has passed through a fine screen. 
The proportions of this facing mortar should be one part of best Portland cement 
to three parts of sand. Care should be taken in all cement work not to allow a 
too rapid drying of the cement ; the slower cement mortar hardens or sets the 
stronger the material will be. 

The following figures may be of service in computing the cost of a pool, 
finished in brick work. It takes sixteen bricks of standard size, 8x3^x2^, for 
every square foot of an eight-inch wall. To lay 1000 bricks it will take one barrel 
of cement and three barrels of sand. The facing of one inch of cement mortar 
will take about four barrels for every two hundred square feet. Portland cement 
costs $2.25 per barrel; generally sand can be procured on the place or from 
some nearby stream. If, however, no sand is in the immediate neighborhood it 
can be bought at from $1.00 to $2.00 per yard of twenty-seven cubic feet, the cost 
depending on the distance of the haul. Hard bricks will cost from $7.00 to $9.00 
per 1000. 

To make the bottom of the pool watertight the bricks can be laid flat with 
from one-half to one inch apertures between them, these to be filled in with the 
same mortar as recommended for facing the side walls. The top of the walls 
should have a coating of the same mortar, or be capped with a stone coping. 

The basin, or pool, can be located on the lawn, near the dwelling, as then 
the flowers can be seen at any hour of the day. The time to see the water lily 
pool at its best is about 10 a. m. At that time the night blooming lilies have 

[25] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 




An old mill lea(i on an amateur's place, be- 
fore planting. Fall of 1904 



Photograph by Mrs. Helen Ripley Eustls. North Tisbury, Mass. 



The same mill lead in the month of 
June. 1905. three months after plant- 
ing, showing what a beautiful spot 
can he evolved from an unsightly 
object, by means of suitable plants, 
and a tasteful arrangement. German 
and Japanese Iris with Ferns on the 
left side ; Siberian Iris on the right 




Photograph by Mrs. Helen Ripley Eustis, North Tisbury, Mass. 



[26] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GART>EKING 




SUGGESTIVE DESIGNS FOR SMALL WATER GARDENS ON THE LAWN 

A basin of circular shape with a coping of stone or cement will look well on any lawn of large extent. If the lawn is of small 
size, with straight walks in proximity to the basin, one of oblong shape will be more desirable 

[27] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 
GARDENING 



not yet closed and the day flowering tender and hardy ones will be open so that 
the face of the basin will be covered with flowers. Morning, generally, is a very 
busy time and the sun during our Summer months is nearly always hot. There- 
fore, one is rarely inclined to visit the water garden about that time, especially if 
it be located at a distance from the house. Hence the advantage of having the 
basin as near to the dwelling as possible. 







' . ^.^^ \-'^'^:i- \.-;:.^<.: :>-^:.-':\\--^ :■;■■: \-^'\-- -y: ^ ■ 


■■'■■-■^ 

■/— v. 


6/^OUND , 







r ---^ 














>- 





— ■ — 





■ 








'' "' "'/' 


- ___ 




v^ 

f 


._ 





- ■ : 


.-_ 


-:r-^>'-<x^- -^■r>' -V-v. \ --, -V" .■^r:>^:-:c. ■■>.--^-.^^- ■■-■-: ^- 





/ 

SUGGESTION FOR A WATER LILY BASIN ON A LAWN. SHOWING A SECTION OF THE SAME 



The shape of the basin will depend on the architecture of the house and the 
design of the grounds. If formal or natural plantings have been adopted, the 

. [28] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



lily basin should conform as near as possible to its surroundings, that the whole, 
when completed, may be in perfect harmony. A basin of circular shape, with a 
coping of stone or cement, will look well on any lawn of large extent. This may 
be embellished by the addition of a fountain rising from the center, which may 
be put in operation for a short time at rare intervals, especially after a warm day 
when the lilies will be benefited by a shower. But this fountain should never be 
allowed to play on the water lilies for any length of time, as the colder water en- 
tering the basin will reduce the temperature to a point lower than it should be for 
best results. If the lawn is of small size, with straight walks in proximity to the 
basin, one of oblong shape will be more desirable, as its straight lines will har- 
monize better with the walks than a basin of circular form. 



t 





A SMALL WATER LILY BASIN FOR THE LAWN 

It is suggested that No. 1 te planted with Nelumbium speciosum ; No 2 with Nelumbium Pekinense rubrum ; No. 3 with 
Nymphaea Gladstoniana ; No. 4 with Nymphaea Zanzibarensis ; No 5 with Nymphaea Marliacea chromatella ; No 6 with 
Nymphaea Marliacea rosea ; No. 7 with Nymphaea Mrs. C. W. Ward ; No 8 with Nymphaea Gloriosa 

The circles and squares represent half barrels and boxes in -which to grow the plants 



If the cost of building a cement basin exceeds the amount one desires to 
expend, very good results can be obtained by purchasing a large hogshead, saw- 
ing it in two and sinking the tubs thus formed into the lawn so that the edges will 
be level with the grass. Water lilies or Nelumbiums planted in these tubs will 
give many beautiful flowers. A series of such tubs can be arranged that will 
be very attractive. Place a large one, filled with Nelumbiums, in the center, and 

[29] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



surround this larger one with a number of smaller tubs, filled with a selection 
of the hardy or tender day-flowering lilies. If these tubs be coated with tar on 
the outside to preserve the wood and buried to their edge in the grass, they will 
look more natural. A selection of Japanese Iris, or any Fern or other moisture- 
loving plant desired, can be planted between the tubs. 

One need never be deterred from growing this beautiful class of plants for 
want of a basin ; the lilies will do better in a basin without a doubt, but excellent 
results have been obtained by using half barrels, set on the surface of the ground, 
placing one plant in each receptacle. One enterprising amateur makes use of an 
old bathtub with entire satisfaction. 

Whatever style of basin is adopted, the requirements are practically the same 
— sufficient good, rich soil with at least six inches of water above it, and two 
goldfish in each half barrel to keep down mosquitoes. When goldfish are placed 
in the barrels it is well to have some other vessel plunged in the soil so as to af- 
ford the fish a hiding place from the cat, as pussy is generally fond of fish, and if 
the water in the basin or pool be shallow she can easily reach them. 




FOUNTAIN BASIN. WASHINGTON. D. C. 

Center filled with Myrioptyllum proserpinacoides (Parrots Feather) 
[30] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 




CHAPTER III 

WINDBREAKS AND MARGINS 

I HE water lily pond, or basin, should be fully protected 
from the cold and high wind storms generally preva- 
lent from the north, northwest and sometimes from 
the northeast. If no buildings or nearby hillsides 
afford this protection, recourse must be had to a 
wall, a hedge, or a belt of evergreen or deciduous 
trees, so planted as to answer the purpose in view. 
The amount of space available will decide the 
method of protection. If the space be limited, there is nothing better than an 
evergreen hedge of Norway Spruce ( Picea excelsa) ; this is a fine hardy ever- 
green, of dense habit of growth, well suited to form a windbreak. It grows 
quickly, reaching at maturity a height of from 60 to 100 feet, while in favorable 
localities it will attain a height of 150 feet. The branches are slender, in regular 
pseudo-whorls from the base up ; the branches are gently decurved with the tips 
upturned, the higher branches spread horizontally, while the uppermost ones 
point upward. This fir can be cut back every year, as is an ordinary hedge of 
Privet ; or it can be planted from three to twelve feet apart and allowed to grow 
naturally. 

Another good evergreen for this purpose is Thuya occidentalis, the Ameri- 
can Arbor vitse. This is a fine hardy evergreen, and one of the best hedge plants 
for screens and windbreaks, especially if the ground space is limited. It is a tall, 
upright growing tree, with a spread of four to six feet, attaining a height of 
from 30 to 60 feet, with very dense foliage. This tree can also be sheared in every 
year, as is done with a hedge plant, but the effect will be better if the trees are 
planted three feet apart and allowed to grow naturally. 

Tsuga Canadensis (Hemlock Spruce) is another beautiful evergreen well 
adapted for a hedge ; it is indeed an ideal tree for a windbreak, either grown 
naturally or planted close and treated as a hedge plant. It is a very hardy tree, 
and where it gets enough sunlight it will be furnished with branches to the 
ground. The branches are slender and spreading; the lower ones deflex by 

[31] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



their own weight; the foHage is of a dark green color above, and silvery gray 
underneath. 

While only three kinds have been mentioned any evergreen can be used 
that grows sufficiently close, and that will succeed in the locality where the plant- 
ing is done. 

If the grounds are extensive, and a broad belt of planting can be carried out, 
it is well to have a background of large deciduous trees, such as Oaks, Beeches, 
Maples, Lindens and Tulip Poplars ; while in the foreground can be planted some 
of the more valuable evergreen trees, such as Pinus Strobus, the American White 
Pine, which is one of the noblest of evergreens, growing from 80 to 100 feet in 
height. Its slender threadlike leaves are from three to four inches in length, of 
bluish green color with silvery lines on the flat surface, giving the tree a silvery 
blue effect. As the White Pine loses its lower branches as it gets older it should 
be planted next to the deciduous trees. 

Pinus excelsa, the Bhotan Pine, is a very handsome tree, with long, droop- 
ing slender leaves of grayish green color, from five to seven inches in length. 
The tree grows to a height of from 50 to 150 feet; it is a native of the Himalaya 
Mountains, and is well adapted for a windbreak, for, unlike Pinus Strobus, when 
planted in a favorable location it retains its lower branches to the ground, making 
a tree not only valuable as a windbreak, but, with its long, slender leaves, giving 
the effect of a graceful weeping tree. It is also a beautiful specimen for the 
lawn. 

Pinus Cembra is another fine dense growing medium sized tree, of from 50 
to 70 feet in height, with silvery green foliage and branches down to the ground ; 
it is one of the finest of the Pines for lawn planting. 

Pinus Austriaca, the Austrian Pine, is one of the hardiest of the Pine fam- 
ilv, of dense growth in the young state, with very dark green, rigid leaves, three 
to five inches in length. This tree also loses its lower branches as it gets older; 
when full grown it will be without limbs for about one-half its height. It grows 
from 60 to 100 feet high, and with its very dark green, almost black foliage, is an 
excellent tree for the background as a setting for the more valuable ones. 

In Abies Nordmanniana we have one of the best of the Firs, a beautiful sub- 
ject with dense, dark green foliage, silvery white underneath. The branches are 
rigid, horizontal, or ascending. The tree grows from 75 to 150 feet in height. 

Abies Cephalonica is a strong, vigorous tree, reaching a height of from 50 to 
60 feet, with wide spreading horizontal branches, and dark lustrous green leaves. 

[32] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



Abies concolor is a beautiful tree of close dense growth ; it has light glaucous 
green leaves, giving the tree an attractive color of bluish white. 

Picea pungens glauca Kosteri (Roster's form of the Colorado Blue Spruce), 
is the handsomest of the Spruce family. The type comes from the mountains of 
Colorado, and has beautiful silvery blue colored leaves. It grows to a height of 
from 80 to 100 feet, has stout, rigid, horizontal branches, and a fine dense habit 
of growth. It is a good ornamental lawn tree as well as being useful as a wind- 
break. 

In front of the evergreens above mentioned the smaller growing ones should 
be planted, such as the golden Arbor vit?e. Thuya occidentalis lutea (T. George 

















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A WINDBREAK OF PINES AND SPRUCES FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE WATER GARDEN 

Peabody) ; this is a fine low tree of pyramidal habit of growth; the young fol- 
iage of the current year's growth is bright yellow, the older foliage green varie- 
gated with yellow. 

Thuya occidentalis Vervaeneana is a smaller and denser tree than the type; 
the branchlets of the current year's growth are tinged with deep golden yellow, 
changing in Winter to brownish orange. 

[33] 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



Thuya occidentalis fastigiata (T. o. pyramidalis) is a fine evergreen of a tall, 
narrow fastigiate form, and close green leaves. 

Thuya occidentalis Wareana is another tree of denser growth and deeper 
brighter green foliage than the type; the branches are short, horizontal at first, 
then ascending. 

Thuya occidentalis Sibirica is a dense growing pyramidal evergreen, with 
deep green leaves, which retain their color well through the Winter; is very 
hardy, and makes a fine lawn specimen, being also valuable as a hedge plant for 
windbreaks. 

Libocedrus decurrens is another fine dark glossy green leaved evergreen, of 
tall columnar habit, growing from lOO to 150 feet in height; it makes a beautiful 
specimen. 

The Japanese Cypress, or Retinisporas, are all fine showy evergreens well 
adapted for windbreaks. 

Thuya gigantea is another evergreen of fine dense habit ; it has dark green 
leaves and grows to a height of from 150 to 200 feet. This, unlike the common 
Arbor vitas, stays green all Winter, while the latter turns a deep brown at the 
approach of cold weather. 

Cupressus obtusa is a tall growing tree, eventually reaching a height of 
from 70 to 100 feet. It is of pyramidal growth in the young state, with branches 
to the ground ; as it gets older the tree loses its lower branches and assumes a 
rounded top. This is a beautiful evergreen. 

Cupressus obtusa aurea is a fine variety similar to the type, with deep golden 
yellow foliage during the growing season. 

Cupressus pisifera is a smaller and more slender tree than C. obtusa ; the fol- 
iage is dark green, with a decided yellow tinge during the growing season. 

Cupressus pisifera aurea is one of the best yellow colored evergreens, the 
whole growth of the current year being of a rich yellow which fades to the nor- 
mal color the second year. This variety is quite distinct from C. plumosa aurea 
and is a better tree. 

Cupressus pisifera filifera is a fine low growing tree, with deep green foliage; 
the young growth is thread-like and pendant, giving a graceful weeping habit 
and forming a close growing, attractive tree. 

Cupressus pisifera filifera aurea is a beautiful variety with all of the current 
year's growth colored a light golden yellow. 

[34I 



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GARDENING 



Cupressus pisifera plumosa is a tree with dense dark green foliage and a 
conical habit of growth, 

Cupressus pisifera plumosa aurea is a variety of Cupressus plumosa, the 
terminal growth of the current year being of a light golden yellow. 

Cupressus pisifera squarrosa Veitchii is the best form of the squarrosa type. 
The foliage is of a beautiful silvery blue, similar to that of a fine form of the 
Colorado Blue Spruce. The leaves are very fine, arranged in spirals, giving to 
the tree a beautiful graceful effect. 




WATERS EDGE PLANTING -HARDY HYBRID RHODODENDRONS 

From left to right : R. album elegans, R. President Lincoln. R. roseum elegans 

In the foreground of the trees named should be planted a choice assortment 
of flowering shrubs ; or, if more desirable, a number of the dwarf evergreens, such 
as Picea excelsa pumila, a dwarf, compact Spruce of perfect symmetrical habit. 

Picea excelsa pumila compacta grows from five to six feet in height and has 
dark green compact foliage. 

Juniperus sabina is a spreading shrub or low tree of variable habit; it grows 
from four to ten feet in height. 

Juniperus sabina prostrata is a low growing evergreen, lying flat on the 
ground; it has light bluish green leaves. 

[351 



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GARDENING 



Juniperus sabina tamariscifolia is a low spreading, vigorous variety, with 
bright green leaves. 

Juniperus communis aurea (Douglas' Golden Juniper) is a beautiful low 
growing yellow colored evergreen ; the young growth is a brilliant yellow during 
the growing season. 

Juniperus Chinensis albo-variegata is a dwarf evergreen of dense columnar 
habit, many of the branchlets being cream white in color. 

Juniperus Chinensis aurea is a beautiful plant, with all of the young growth 
a golden yellow color. 

Juniperus Chinensis procumbens is a dwarf low spreading evergreen. 

Juniperus Chinensis procumbens aurea is a variety of the preceding, having 
the young growth tinged with yellow. 

In Juniperus Chinensis procumbens aurea variegata many of the young 
branchlets are tinged with deep golden yellow. 

Cupressus obtusa pygmaea (Retinispora) is a very desirable low growing 
evergreen, of deep color, rarely reaching more than two feet in height. It is of 
dense growth, spreading horizontally. 

Cupressus obtusa aurea is a small growing form, with deep golden yellow fol- 
iage. 

Pinus montana (P. Mughus) is a low growing, rigid Pine, of semi-pros- 
trate habit. It has dark green foliage. 

The foregoing forms a list of trees all of which are well suited to protect the 
pond from wind, and at the same time will provide a beautiful and interesting 
border of trees. 

Whatever trees are selected, they should be planted in an irregular belt if 
the width of the ground will allow of this being done. By so doing a more 
natural planting will be obtained, and an undulating margin that will present a 
much better appearance than if the trees are planted in straight rows. 

All of the subjects mentioned above are suitable for windbreaks, but they 
will not succeed on low, wet swampy soil ; if the surroundings of the pond are of 
this character, the ground should be drained and filled to a higher level if this 
is possible. If this is not practicable, then a planting of such trees as succeed 
well in low, wet ground should be selected, such as Platanus occidentalis (the 
American Plane or Buttonwood). This is a stately, wide spreading tree, of 
vigorous quick growth and heavy foliage; the bark peels ofif from the trunk in 
wide sheets, leaving the trunk showing great patches of white. 

[36] 



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Liriodendron tulipifera (White Wood or Tulip Poplar) succeeds well in 
low, wet soil. It grows rapidly, forming a large, broad spreading tree, with fine 
light bluish green foliage. The tree bears in Spring tulip shaped flowers of a yel- 
lowish green color. It is best to transplant young trees of the Liriodendron in 
Spring; if old trees are moved they rarely survive the operation, and seldom live 
if moved in the Fall. 




Courtesy H. P. Kelsey, Sali'in. ^r;l^s. 

WATERS EDGE PLANTING-RHODODENDRON MAXIMUM, THE GREAT-LEAVED LAUREL 

A fine hardy evergreen flo'wering sKrub 

Nyssa sylvatica (Sour Gum) is another native tree well adapted for low, 
wet situations. It is a tall tree of slender habit, growing from 40 to 60 feet in 
height, with small obovate or oval glossy leathery leaves that turn a bright, beau- 
tiful, flaming scarlet in the Fall. 

Liquidambar styraciflua (Sweet Gum) is a tree also of value for its beauti- 
ful colored leaves in Fall, which range from the greens through yellow purplish 
red to deep bronzy black, often all of these colors being present in the one leaf. 

[37] 



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It likes a low, wet, marshy place. The leaves are palmate, five to seven-lobed, 
on leaf stalks six to seven inches long; the bark takes on a corky effect that 
is very interesting. The tree grows to a height of from 40 to 100 feet, according 
to the location. This is one of the best of the swamp trees. 

Quercus bicolor (Swamp White Oak) is a native, growing to a height of 
from 60 to 70 feet. The head is narrow and rounded; the leaves are four to 
seven inches long, the trunk covered with light gray bark. It likes a low, wet 
position. 

Quercus palustris (Pin Oak) is another native tree, growing from 60 to 120 
feet in height. It is quick growing, and has beautiful deeply cut foliage with a 
decided yellow color to the young unfolding leaves, which take on brilliant Fall 
hues. It is a fine tree for low, wet ground, and is also the easiest of all the Oaks 
to transplant. 

Acer rubrum (Swamp or Red IMaple) is a tree that will do well in any lo- 
cation ; in the swamp or on the dry hillside it is perfectly at home. This tree 
has a beautiful, symmetrically rounded head when grown where it has room to 
develop. The flowers are bright red in Spring; the leaves, in Fall, turn bright 
yellow or scarlet, tinting the swamps all over the Eastern States with their beau- 
tiful colors. 

Betula nigra is a fine tree for low ground, growing from 50 to 90 feet in 
height. It has reddish brown bark, silvery gray on the young branches. 

Betula occidentalis reaches a height of from 30 to 40 feet and has slender 
branches and broad ovate leaves ; it grows well in wet soil. 

Salix Babylonica (Weeping Willow) is a beautiful weeping tree, very w^ell 
adapted for growing in low, wet ground. It reaches a height of from 30 to 40 
feet and has long, slender, drooping olive green branches. 

Salix Babylonica aurea is a variety of Salix Babylonica, with bright yellow 
bark that is very ornamental, especially in Winter. 

Salix vitellina aurea (Salix vitellina aurantiaca). Golden Willow, is a very 
effective tree ; in Winter the branches and twigs are of a beautiful yellow color. 

In the immediate foreground should be planted Magnolia glauca, the Swamp 
Magnolia or Sweet Bay. This is a fine shrub or small evergreen tree. The 
leaves are bluish green above, with a silvery white reverse. The flowers are 
very sweet scented, of globular form, and cream colored when first opening. 
This Magnolia is quite at home in the swamps, but it also thrives in moist soil 
on higher ground. 

[38] 



THE BOOK OF 

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Kalmia latifolia delights in a moist, peaty soil, and grows very well in 
swampy places if planted on low mounds. It is one of the most charming of the 
native flowering shrubs. The flowers, borne in large terminal clusters, are 
rose colored to white, with purple spots. It attains a height of from four to 
twelve feet. 




KALMIA LATIFOLIA AT THE EDGE OF A POND 

One of the most charming of the native flowering shrubs 

Rhododendron maximum, the Great Leaved Laurel, is a native Rhododen- 
dron of extreme hardiness, growing from ten to twenty feet in height. The 
leaves are narrow and oblong, from four to ten inches in length, bright green 
above, grayish white underneath. The flowers are borne in large clusters, colored 
pale rose with greenish spots within. 

Rhododendron maximum roseum is identical with the type, except in the 
flower, which is pink colored. 

[39] 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



Rhododendron catawbiense is a native Rhododendron that never grows as 
tall as Rhododendron maximum, and is less desirable than it as a garden plant, 
except in high altitudes. It grows at a higher elevation than Rhododendron 
maximum, hence is not as well adapted as that plant to low ground. The flowers 
are lilac purple in color, the plant reaching a height of from six to fifteen feet. 
It is perfectly hardy in the New England States. 

Rhododendron punctatum is a smaller growing plant, never reaching over 
six feet in height. The branches are slender and spreading. The flowers, which 
are colored pale rose with green spots, are borne in small clusters. This is a very 
fine shrub, thriving well in wet soil. 

Azalea arborescens has fragrant, white or rose-tinted flowers, the plant 
growing from eight to ten feet in height. 

Azalea viscosa has flowers from white to rose in color, and grows from 
four to eight feet high. 

Azalea nudiflora grows to a height of from two to six feet ; the flowers range 
in color from white to deep pink and open just before the leaves unfold. 

Azalea calendulacea has flowers ranging in color from orange yellow to red; 
it grows from four to ten feet high. 

Azalea Vaseyi attains a height of from five to ten feet, and has beautiful 
pink flowers. 

All the Azaleas like a fine, peaty soil where they will have an abundant sup- 
ly of water. If planted in swamps they should be raised above the water on 
low mounds. 

Ilex verticillata (Winterberry) is a beautiful red-berried native shrub that 
delights in a low, wet position. The bright red berries are borne on the young 
twigs of the current year's growth, and measure about one-quarter inch across. 

Cornus stolonifera (Red-stemmed Dogwood) is a very effective shrub for 
the water's edge, growing from six to eight feet in height. The leaves are light 
green above and paler underneath. In Winter, the stems of the previous sea- 
son's growth are of a bright red color. This shrub should be severely cut down 
every Spring, so as to encourage a strong growth of young shoots that will take 
on this beautiful red color the following Winter. 

Alnus rugosa (A. serrulata) is also well adapted for wet places; it grows 
from eight to twenty feet high and is perfectly hardy. 

All the trees and shrubs should be so planted and traversed by a walk that 
one can wander out and in among them. The full extent of the water should 

[40] 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



never be seen from any one point, but at each turn of the path a fresh view of 
the pond should break upon the vision. (This is not desirable in the case of ponds 
of small size, as it would not only minimize the effect but also give a strained ar- 
tificial look to the pond.) This effect can be easily created by having at some 
parts steep banks, the tops planted with some of the trees or shrubs already 
named. At other points the water can be hidden from view by a planting of 
shrubs only. Always bear in mind that the pond should not be shaded from the 
south, southeast, and southwest ; therefore, at these points only the smaller 
growing trees or shrubs should be used. Where the Rhododendrons thrive well 
no more beautiful and appropriate subjects can be selected for planting at the 
water's edge, and a generous collection of both native and hybrid varieties should 
be employed. In planting the Rhododendrons the native kinds should be grouped ; 
especially should this be done in the case of Rhododendron maximum, as it flow- 
ers much later than the hybrids, and it is always well to plant in groups the kinds 
that bloom at the same time. 

The following list of hybrid Rhododendrons furnishes a selection of the best 
of each color, which will aid intending purchasers: Rhododendron album grandi- 
florum, white and blush ; Rhododendron blandum, white and yellow ; Rhododen- 
dron Blandyanum, bright cherry ; Rhododendron Everestianum, crimpled rosy 
lilac ; Rhododendron General Grant, rosy scarlet ; Rhododendron grandiflorum, 
large rosy crimson ; Rhododendron gloriosum, blush, large flowers ; Rhododen- 
dron perspicuum, clear white ; Rhododendron purpureum grandiflorum, showy 
purple ; Rhododendron roseum elegans, rose ; Rhododendron Caractacus, large 
truss, rich purple crimson ; and Rhododendron Abraham Lincoln, rosy red. - 




PUotographi? by Mrs. Helen Ripley Eustis, North Tisbury, Mass. 

AN AMATEUR'S WATER GARDEN 

From end of pond From front door of house From the bridge 

Nyraphaea Marliacea chromatella Bridge in the distance Japan Iris and Ferns on the bank 



[41] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



CHAPTER IV 

SOIL 

TO grow all Nympli?eas and Nelumbiums successfully they must be 
supplied with good, rich soil in abundance. Those of the larger grow- 
ing, night blooming class make a great growth of root and leaves and 
must be afforded plenty of food in the soil, which should be of sufficient depth 
to carry them through the season successfully, that they may attain the great- 
est development of leaf and flower. If the soil is not sufficiently enriched the. 
plant food will soon become exhausted, and the plants will show yellow, starved 
leaves and small flowers that will be no credit to the grower. 

irdaliing the Compost — Fertilizers 

For best results, prepare the soil as carefully as you would for roses or any 
other greenhouse plants. The sod from an old pasture (or from any grass field 
with a good sod) and soil inclined to a heavy clay texture, is the best for water 
lilies. This should be taken to a depth of four inches, and carted to a place 
where it can be mixed with an equal amount of cow manure, the best that can 
be obtained. Do not use horse manure, which is said "to be just as good." It is 
not as good, never was, and never will be, for this class of plants. Also be care- 
ful that no pig manure is mixed with the fertilizer, as this will burn the roots 
badly. Do not accept manure that has been lying outside, exposed to sun and 
rain for a year or more. Such material as a plant food is then little better than 
leaf mold. Get good, strong, fresh manure, with as little straw in it as possible. 
Make a layer of soil about six inches in depth, then add a layer of manure of the 
same depth, and so continue until the pile has reached a height of about four 
feet, and of whatever length and width are rec[uired to furnish the soil necessary 
to put into the pond. The soil pile should then be covered with boards, or other 
material, so as to shed rain and ward off the sun's rays. After the soil has been 
in this condition for some week-s (it is immaterial how many), it should be turned 
over and chopped, mixing the soil and manure thoroughly, afterward throwing 
it into a pile similar to the first, and covering it in the same way. This process 

[42] 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



should be repeated three times ; the soil will then be ready to plaee in the boxes, 
or on the bottom of the pond. The soil can be cut and composted in the Fall, or 
in early Spring; it makes very little difference when the work is done, only see 
to it that the soil is well mixed. 

In preparing soil for this class of plants, as well as for all others, it should 
not be handled when wet ; for in this state the soil will get hard and lumpy, pre- 
venting its thorough incorporation with the manure. If cow manure cannot be 
secured, sheep manure will prove an excellent substitute; but being a much 
stronger plant food, not more than one part sheep manure to eight parts of soil 
must be used. When sheep manure is employed, it should not be mixed witli the 
soil until the last turning of the pile. All soils will be benefited by the addi- 
tion of some ground bone meal, in small quantities ; 1nit it should be "ground 
bone," not cut with sulphuric acid, which is very injurious to plant growth. Use 
one-half pound of bone meal to one cubic foot or 13^ pounds to a yard (27 cubic 
feet) of soil. The bone meal should be incorporated with the soil at its last 
turning. The same amount of wood ashes should be added to the soil when it 
is put into the boxes, or on the pond bottom. 

A word of caution as to the use of bone meal and wood ashes may not be out 
of place here : These materials should be mixed with the soil as directed, and 
should not come in contact with each other l)y applying them simultaneously. If 
this is done, the potash of the wood ashes will free the ammonia contained in the 
bone meal, which will evaporate and be lost. The bone meal should always be 
mixed with the soil a few weeks ahead of the application of the wood ashes. 

Oou for Seedlings 

The soil in which to raise water lily plants from seed should be a light sandy 
loam; or, if this is not available, then a good loam that has not been composted 
with manure, with the addition of one-third sand, or enough to give the soil the 
desired open texture. The whole should be passed through a quarter-inch 
screen. No manure must be used in the soil in which the seed is sown. ]\I-an- 
ure generally causes the soil to ferment, killing many of the young plants. It 
should only be used in the soil when the plantlets are ready to be potted off sep- 
arately into small two-inch pots ; then the addition of well-decayed manure will 
be beneficial and hasten the growth. When the plants are ready for a larger pot, 
the soil composted for the larger plants will answer, simply passing it through a 
half-inch screen. 

[43] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



CHAPTER V 



PLANTING AND WINTERING 



Planting in Soil on Bottom of Pond 



K 




T 



iHIS method of planting should be 

adopted only in large ponds where it 

will be difficult or impossible to draw 

off the water. The roots of the lilies, once 

planted where they have unrestricted room, 

will very soon spread over the whole pond and 

^m ^ ^HK intermingle in such a way that the weaker 

growing kinds will be destroyed by the more 
robust ones. 

In planting roots in large, natural 
ponds, the roots should be pressed down 
into the soft mud, two or three inches deep, and held in place by stones until the 
plants get well rooted. If this be not done, the roots may be disturbed and rise 
to the surface. The majority of the hardy water lilies increase very rapidly 
from the roots, therefore should have plenty of room between the plants, es- 
pecially if in a large pond. The stronger growing varieties, such as all the 
Nymphaea odorata section (with the exception of Nymphsea odorata minor), 
Nymphsea Marliacea rosea, Nymphsea Marliacea carnea, Nymphgea Marliacea al- 
bida, Nymphsea Marliacea chromatella, Nymphsea alba, Nymphgea alba candidis- 
sima, Nymphsea Gladstoniana, with the reniformis (tuberosa) varieties, should 
be planted not less than six feet apart, and in the deeper water of the pond. None 
of the reniformis section should be planted on the bottom of the pond, unless 
the roots can be confined in an enclosure, formed either of brick or boards, set 
on edge in the shape of a box. 

[44] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



The medium varieties, such as Nymphsea Robinsoni, Nymphgea James Brydon, 
Nymphaea gloriosa, and Nymph?ea hicida, can be planted four feet apart, and in 
water of a depth of eighteen inches. 

The weaker growing varieties, such as Nymphaea helvola, Nymphsea pyg- 
mgea, Nymphaea Laydekeri rosea, Nymphaea Laydekeri purpurata, Nymphaea 
Andreana, Nymphsea Seignoureti, Nymphaea Marliacea flammea, Nymphaea Mar- 
Hacea rubra punctata, Nymphaea Arethusa, Nymphaea aurora, Nymphaea fulva, 
Nymphaea Marliacea lilacea, should be planted close to the edge of the pond 
in water from twelve to eighteen inches in depth, and from two to three feet 
between the plants. 

The leaf surface of the hardy water lilies varies with the strength and vigor 
of the plant. The stronger sorts named above will cover a circle of from six to 
eight feet in diameter, the medium growers from four to six feet; while the 
smaller kinds will cover a space of from two to four feet. 

The planting of hardy water lilies can be done at any time from the start 
of growth in Spring, generally about April first, up to the last week of August. 
While plants set out before or after these dates may do all right, there is a certain 
amount of danger of losing the roots by a late Spring or an early cold Fall, re- 
tarding the growth. 

The tender or tropical water lilies should not be planted until settled warm 
weather arrives, or until the temperature of the water reaches nearly yo". They 
should be set out from eight to ten feet apart. The tender night flowering water 
lilies are the strongest growers ; the leaves of these will cover a circle of from 
twelve to fifteen feet diameter. The tender day flowering lilies are not cjuite so 
vigorous, but will cover a space of from eight to twelve feet. The leaf surface 
of all water lilies, however, is governed by the amount of soil and plant food 
available, that of the very strongest varieties not occupying a space of six feet in 
diameter unless food and heat conditions are favorable. The tropical lilies will 
have been in pots for a few weeks, and will have several leaves when they are re- 
ceived from the growers. They should be planted carefully without damaging the 
ball. If the water is deeper than that in which the plants have been growing, the 
leaves, at planting, will be entirely submerged. This will have no damaging effect, 
as generally within a few hours the leaves will be floating on the surface. It is not 
well to plant any of the lilies in water more than three feet in depth (that is, 
with that amount of water above the roots) and in that depth only the very 
strongest growers should be placed. The tender lilies should be planted in the 

[45] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



pond, where they will have the benefit of the direct sunlight all day long, if pos- 
sible. 

Planting in Soil in Boxes or Tubs 

This is by all means the best method of growing water lilies, as then they 
are confined to the space allowed to each one, and the caretaker can walk among 
the boxes without danger of breaking the plants or stirring up the mud on the 
bottom of the pond. The size of the boxes, placed four feet apart, should be 
from two by two feet by one foot deep for the smaller Nymphseas, such as Nym- 
phaea pygmsea, Nymphaea pygmaea helvola, Nymphaea La}"dekeri rosea, Nym- 
phaea Laydekeri purpurea, Nymphaea Laydekeri lucida, Nymphasa Andreana, 
Nymphaea fulva, Nymphaea Arethusa, Nymphaea aurora, Nymphaea Seignoureti, 
Nymphaea Wm. Falconer, Nymphaea Marliacea rubra punctata, Nymphaea Mar- 
liacea ignea, Nymphaea jMarliacea flammea, and Nymphaea James Brydon ; and 
for the tender ones, Nymphaea Capensis, Nymphaea coerulea, Nymphaea Zanzibar- 
ensis and its varieties. Up to three by three feet by one foot for the larger 
growers like Gladstoniana, Marliacea rosea, etc. These boxes should be six feet 
apart from center to center. For the tropical lilies, such as Nymphaea O'Marana, 
Nymphaea dentata, Nymphaea Devoniensis, boxes four by four feet by one foot 
will be none too large, and they should be eight to ten feet apart from center to 
center. 

If oil barrels are available they can be sawn in two, and will answer very 
well in place of boxes. These barrels should be burned lightly to remove any 
oil or other deleterious matter remaining of their former contents ; they can then 
be filled with the soil, and carried to their places in the pond. The lily roots 
should be planted from two to three inches deep, and the soil covered with one 
inch of coarse sand or gravel to keep down the manure, and prevent the fish 
digging in the boxes. 

When all the lilies have been planted the water can be turned into the pond, 
and allowed to cover the crowns to the depth of four inches. This quantity of 
water will be suflficient until the plants begin to grow, when more can be added 
until the pond is full, care being taken that the plants do not receive a check from 
too much cold water being admitted at one time. It is better to supply the water 
in this manner than to fill the pond as soon as planting is done, as, if the latter 
plan be adopted, there is always danger of losing plants, especially newly divided 
roots. 

[46] 



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The hardy lihes, once planted in boxes, need not be disturbed ; all that is re- 
quired the following Spring being to remove the sand, or gravel, and fork in a 
good top-dressing of cow manure, replacing the sand. The year following the 
boxes should be emptied and refilled with fresh soil and the roots of the lilies 
divided and planted as before. 

Cultural Directions for Aquatics 

After the lilies have been planted, their wants are few. All decaying leaves 
and flowers should be removed as soon as they begin to look unsightly. If scum 
should gather on the surface of the water, wash it toward the overflow pipe 
with the hose, when it can be easily got rid of. Green scum will form whenever 
new soil and manure have been added to the pond, the still, warm water having 
a tendency to promote the growth of this particular alga;. Should the scum 
appear in such quantities as to make the pond unsightly, allow a stream of water 
to flow through the pond for several days, which will soon abate the trouble. 

Keep the pond as nearly full of water as possible. If the water is allowed 
to get low, and a large quantity of colder water admitted the temperature in the 
pond will be lowered in proportion to the additional volume of water supplied. If 
only hardy lilies are grown in the pond this will make little difference, but trop- 
ical lilies thrive best in a temperature as near 80^ as possible ; therefore, where 
both hardy and tender lilies are grown in the same pond the temperature of the 
water should be maintained at that degree, or as near to it as can be. Keep a 
sharp lookout for insects and other enemies, never afl^ording them an opportunity 
to spread before applying proper remedies described in another chapter. 

VVintering Tuhers and Rhizomes 

After a good sharp frost, the tender lilies should be removed from the pond, 
and such as are required for Winter flowers in the greenhouse tank, or for pro- 
pagation, should be potted and placed in the tank. The leaves should be removed 
from the others and the tubers placed under the greenhouse bench, or in some 
other place where they can be kept cool without danger of being frozen, and 
away from mice and rats. After a few weeks these roots should be examined, and 
all the young tubers removed. These look very much like hickory nuts and will 
be found growing around the old tuber. They can be kept all Winter in pots, 
between layers of damp sand, at a temperature of from 50° to 60° until it is time 
to start them in the Spring. The old tubers of Nymph^ea Lotus and Nymph^a 

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rubra varieties are of no further use, as they begin to decay as soon as lifted from 
the pond and should be thrown away. All the Zanzibarensis, gracilis, Capensis, 
and ccerulea sections should be potted up and placed in water at a temperature 
as near to 50" as possible. This temperature will keep them in a semi-dormant 
condition until they are wanted in the Spring. If there is no greenhouse tank 
available in which to place the tubers they can be removed and stored in sand, 
as described above. 

The roots, or rhizomes, of the hardy lilies need not be removed from the 
pond if a sufficient depth of water can be maintained above the crowns so that 
the roots will not be actually frozen. This will have to be determined by per- 
sonal observation of the thickness of ice formed during the Winter. If there is 
danger of frost reaching the roots a quantity of tree leaves spread over the 
crowns, kept in place by a sprinkling of sand, or soil, over them, will protect the 
roots from frost without removal from the pond. 

If the lilies have been grown in boxes, or tubs, these can be carried into the 
cellar, or cool greenhouse, and placed under the bench. Whichever method is 
adopted care must be taken that the soil does not become dry, but is kept in a 
moist condition. This is essential to carry the roots successfully through the 
Winter. If the roots become dry, they will shrivel ; dry rot will result, which soon 
destroys them. More roots of hardy lilies are lost every Winter through being 
kept too dry than by being frozen. Just how much frost the roots will withstand 
has not been determined. It may be said that all lilies in the tuberosa, odorata 
and alba sections will withstand several degrees of frost, which would prove fatal 
to the tetragona (pygmoea) section and nearly all of its hybrids. The same is 
true of many of Marliac's hybrids. 

In cement basins, where there is danger of the walls being cracked by frost, 
it is well to draw off all the water, and either remove the boxes to the cellar or 
greenhouse, or fill the basin with tree leaves, placing evergreen branches on top 
of these. If this method of protection is adopted, some means must be taken 
to keep rats and mice from the basin, for if allowed access to the lily roots these 
vermin will soon destroy them, being very partial to the Nymphzea roots during 
the Winter months when other food is scarce. 



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CHAPTER VI 

HARDY WATER LILIES 




TliK hardy water lilies bco-in to Hovver very 
early in the season. in sheltered ponds 
in tlie vicinity of New York and Phila- 
delphia the hr>t week of May will see seyeral of 
them in bloom; and from that time well into Septem- 
lier riowcrs of hardy water lilies can be picked. The 
roots of the hardy lilies will commence to tlower 
within a few weeks after planting and keep on 
bloomino- throughout the season, so that one has not 
to wait a whole year for the plants to become estab- 
lished. 

The hardy lilies give us a great range and varia- 
tion in the form of the petals as well as in the color of 
the blooms. Some of the flowers rise above the 
water on stems of from six to nine inches: others 
float on the surface, presenting an endless var- 
iety in leaf and flower. The best of the hardy lilies 
spring from the American species, Nymphcea odorata, 
Nymj^hrea reniformis ( tuberosa ) and the Mexican 
variety, Xymphcea Mexicana. These, with the European species, Xvm- 
phacca alba and Xymphaea alba rubra, and the Chinese Xym])ha?a tetra- 
gona ( pygma^a ) have all been used by the hybridist to gi\e us the manv 
beautiful forms we now possess. Nymphcea odorata, the white fragrant pond 
lily of the X'^ortheastern States, is still a desirable one, and should Ije grown hx 
every person wdio cultivates water lilies. It delights in deep rich soil, and should 
be grown with its roots unhampered by box or partition. The flower is white, 
in size from three to five inches across, with golden yellow stamens ; the sepals 
and tips of the petals are very often tinted pink. The flowers are very fragrant. 
The leaves are dark green on the ui)per side while the under side is a reddish 
green. 

A large numl:)er of hybrids and chance seedlings from Xympluea odorata 
are now in cultivation. The best of these are Xymphciea odorata Luciana, a 

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variety of great beauty and vigorous growth ; the flowers measure from three to 
six inches across, and are of a beautiful rosy-pink color. 

In Nymphsea odorata Caroliniana we have a natural hybrid and a very 
beautiful one. The flowers are of a delicate rose-flesh color, while the stamens 
are clear yellow. The plant is of strong growth, with large leaves which often 
measure twelve inches in diameter. 

Nymphsea odorata exquisita produces flowers of a very deep intense rose- 




NYMPHAEA ODORATA W. B. SHAW 

carmine color. Unfortunately, this lily is becoming scarce, and it is now difficult 
to obtain the true variety. 

Nymphsea odorata gigantea, from the Southern United States, gives large, 
pure white flowers from four to seven inches across. The leaves are large, deep j' 

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green, with the u.Kler side generally tinted pnrplish at the margin ■ verv free 
flowering. ^^ ' -^ '^^^^ 

Nymphaea odorata minor produces sn,all, fragrant white flowers from two 
to three mches across. This ,i,y is „„,ch used for growing in tubs an for ,1 
ing at the edges of ponds. ^ 

In Nymphaea odorata rosea we have .i,e far-fa„,ed Cape Cod pink water 
I.I,. The flowers, about four inclies in dian,eter, are of a beautiful rose pink 
color at he t.ps of the petals, deepening to intense pink at the center of the 
flower. The stamens are pure yellow. The flowers of this Nyn,ph^a are very 
fragrant : the leaves are dark reddish green on both sides 

Nymph^a odorata sulphurea is a hybrid between Nyn,ph.a odorata and 
Nymph^a Me.x.cana. The flowers nteasure from four to five inches across 
are of a deep sulphur yellow color, rising above the water to a height of from' 
three to s,x uKhes. The leaves are blotched with brown spots and float on the 
surface of the pond. 

A large flowering variety of the preceding is Nymphrea odorata sulphurea 
grandtflora. Th,s lily is larger in flower and leaf, otherwise it is identical with 
iMymphaea odorata sulphurea. 

Nyniph^a odorata ^^^ B. Shaw is a seedhng fron. the beautiful Xympl.^ea 
odorata Caroliniana. The plant flowers as freely as that well known variety 
The color of the flower is much deeper and brighter than that of the parent- it is 
a very desirable lily. 

Nymphaea odorata Jessieana gives flowers of large size and fine form of a 
J beautiful even pink color. The plant is free in flower and growth. 
j ^ i\ymphaea Mary exquisita is a fine sweet scented sort^, of large size and 
beautiful pink color, very free in flower and growth. It belongs to^he odorata 
section and is quite a desirable variety. 

The well known Nymphrea tuberosa (reniformis) is our native species from 
the West and Northwestern States. It has deep green leaves some of which 
stand out of the water to a height of twelve inches when crowded. It is one of 
the strongest growing lilies, and should not be planted unless the roots can be 
confined; even then it will soon spread all over the pond bv means of its 
seed. It throws pure white flowers, from four to nine inches in diameter with 
broad petals. The plant is only moderately free flowering, and not so desirable 
tor cultivation as some of the others. 

Nymph^a tuberosa rosea is not quite so vigorous in growth as its parent, but 

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it produces more flowers the color of which is a light shade of flesh pink. They 
rise above the water from two to three inches. 

Nymph.Ta tuberosa Richardson! is one of the finest of the hardy hhes, w.th 
pure white flowers, very double, and of large size, from six to eight inches across. 




■jfrnau^ 



NYMPHAEA ODORATA MARY EXQUISITA 

The plant has the vigorous growth of the type. While it is one of the hardy 
lilies indispensable in every collection, it gives very few flowers for the amount of 
space it occupies. 

Nympha^a tuberosa rubra is a new hybrid of beautiful rosy-red color with 
red stamens; the flowers are from five to seven inches across, with the delicate 
perfume of the odorata section. The plant is of strong vigorous growth. This 
is quite a desirable variety, but not very free flowering. 

[S2] 



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Nymph^ea alba is the well known white lily from Europe. The flowers float 
on the water, and n.easure fron. four to six inches aeross. The plant ],looms 
very freely and is of quick, strong growth. 

Nympha^a alba candidissinia is a large, free flowering white variety of strong- 
vigorous growth. The flowers are much larger than those of Xvn^pluea alb-r 
Ihe leaves are large and deep green. The plant blooms continuousiv throughout 
the season. 




NYMPHAEA ALBA 

In Nymphaea Alarliacea albida we have a pure white flower, of large size with 
yellow stamens and (juite fragrant. The sepals are tinted pink. ' The jWant 
is of free growth, and blooms continuously the whole season. The leaves are 
large, deep green above, the underside being deep red in the young stage. This 
is one of the best white water lilies in cultivation for all puri)()ses. ' 

Nympha^a Alarliacea rosea is still one of the best of the deep pink hardy 

I hhes, and a fitting companion to the preceding. The flowers are of large size, 

deep rose pink in color. The plant is very free flowering, and of strong, vigorous 

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growth, with large leaves which are purpUsh red in the young state changing to 
deep green. This is one of the choicest water lilies. 

In Nymph^a Marliacea carnea we have a lily similar to the last named m 
flower, leaf and growth of plant. The color is a soft flesh pink, deeper toward the 




NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA ALBIDA 

center of the flower. The bloom exhales a sweet vanilla fragrance. The plant is 

very free flowering. 

Nymphjea Marliacea chromatella has charming canary yellow flowers, from 
four to six inches in diameter, with bright yellow stamens. The leaves are beau- 
tifully mottled with brown. The plant flowers freely, and is of easy, quick growth. 

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When It has remained undisturbed for some years the leaves become crowded 
and rise above the water at the center of the plant to a height of twelve inches 
thus hiding a larg-e number of the flowers. To avoid this the plant should be di- 
vided every two years. This is, at the present writing, the best yellow hardy water 
lily in cultivation for all purposes. 

In Nymph.-ea Wm. Doogue we have a fine lily, of delicate coloring. The 
flowers are large, of a soft shell pink color, with pink sepals, which are very wide 




NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA CHROMATELLA 

and slightly incurving, giving a beautiful cup-shaped bloom. The plant flowers 
freely the whole season. 

Nymphasa Gladstoniana is a fine lily of beautiful form and strong robust 
growth. It requires plenty of space for its best development at both root and top. 
The flowers are of the purest white, cup-shaped, with golden yellow stamens and 

f55] 



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very lar.e. The plant blooms freely. This yariety shows s.gns ot tuberosa 
Tar „ a^e hr its leaves and growth. The leaves are dark green, the leaf stalk 
bdl" st-ped brown as in Xyn,ph- tuberosa. The plant is also ntcUned to push 

the leaves above the water. r i i ■ i ■ ^a 

With Nyntph^a Laydekeri rosea we come to a distinct class of hybr.ds. ra. d 
by M. Latour-Marliac. of Ten,ple-snr-Lc.. France, who has giv.n us ntany eauU^ 
ful and interesting hybrid water lilies. This lily is of the fornt ot Xjmph^a 
It," a ( tetra^o.;) which tt resenrbles in many ways, but not in the color and 
;ertle fliers. On first opening tite bloom is of a soft shell pink, wh.ch as 




NYMPHAEA GLADSTONIANA 



NYMPHAEA TETRAGONA 



This illustration depicts the largest and the smallest of the hardy Water Lilies 

it cets Older becomes deep carmine rose. The stamens are orange red. The plant 
is moderate in growth, but very free flowering, and is desirable for tubs ana 
small pools, or for planting at the edge of a pond or tank. 

Nymph^ea Laydekeri lilacea gives fragrant flowers, of a soft rose-hlac color 
shaded bright carmine, with yellow stamens. The leaves are bright glossy green 
beautifullv blotched with brown. 

Nymphc-ea Laydekeri purpurata produces flowers of a carmine rose color, 

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darker toward the center. The center petals and sepals are of a bright rose and 
the stamens orange red. The plant tlowers freely and continuously the whole 
season. 

Nymphc-ea Laydekeri fulgens throws flowers of a brilliant crimson magenta 
color, with garnet rose stamens. The blooms are nicely cup-shaped. 

Xymphsa lucida has flowers of a rosy vermilion color, darker in the center, 
with orange stamens. The leaves are beautifully blotched with reddish brown.' 
The plant is very free in flower and growth. 

Nymphaea fulva gives flowers of a bright yellow color, with a red overlay, 
the general color being a bright carmine purple. 




Nymphaea odorata Luciar 



HARDY WATER LILIES 



Nymphaea James Brydc 



Xymphsea Andreana produces flowers of a dark red color shaded with yellow. 
The leaves are blotched with chestnut brown. The plant blooms freely and is a 
very desirable varietv. 

Nymphaea aurora gives flowers of a soft rosy yellow when first opening, 
changing to deep red as the flower gets older. 

Xymphc-ea Seignoureti has a medium sized flower, pale yellow in color shaded 
with pink and carmine, with orange yellow stamens. The blooms rise above the 
water to a height of six inches. The leaves are beautifully spotted with brown. 
This variety is free in flower. 

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Nymph^ea Arethusa gives a bright crimson pink flower, of large size. The 

plant flowers very freely. 

In Nymph^a James Brvdon we have a very fine hardy lily, one of the freest 
in flower and growth, and in every particular one of the most desirable of its 
class The flowers measure from five to six inches across; the petals are broad 
concave and incurving, giving a flower of a fine cup-shape. The color is a nch 
rosy crimson, while on the reverse of the petals is a silvery sheen. This variety 
is well adapted either for growing in tubs, boxes, or planted out in the pond. 

Nymph^a Wm. Falconer is the darkest colored of all the hardy water lilies 
in cultivation. The flowers measure from six to seven inches across, are of a 
bright garnet ruby color, with yellow stamens. The leaves are dark red when first 
unfolding, changing to deep green with red veins as the leaf reaches maturity. 
This variety is shy in flowering, otherwise it is excellent. 

Nymphaea gloriosa is a magnificent variety with flowers from four to six 
inches across of beautiful form, which float oiV the water. They are of a deep 
carmine rose color, becoming deep red with age. The plant is very free in flower, 
blooming continuously throughout the season. This lily is the best of this class 

for all purposes. 

Nympha^a Robinsoni gives a fine flower of a unique coloring; the ground 
color is yellow with an overlay of purplish red; the general tone being a dark 
orange red. The plant is very free in flower and growth, with dark green leaves 
spotted with brown above and dark red on the underside. This is one of the best, 
and should be grown by all who have a collection of hardy water lilies. 

Nymphsa Marliacea ignea produces flowers from four to five inches across 
of a deep carmine color with cardinal stamens. The leaves are of a rich bronze 
when young, changing with age to deep green with brown blotches. 

Nymphsea Marliacea flammea has large flowers of amaranth red shaded with 
white. The stamens are deep orange. The leaves are green much blotched with 
chestnut brown. 

Nymph^a flava is a pale yellow water lily from Florida. The flowers measure 
from three to four inches across, rising out of the water from three to six inches. 
The. leaves are dark green, blotched with brown. 

Nymphsea Mexicana gives a bright canary yellow flower from four to five 
inches across, with golden yellow stamens. The leaves are small, much spotted 
with brown on the surface, the underside dark crimson brown with black spots. 

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This is a free and continuous bloomer and is perfectly hardy at Philadelphia 
I his Illy and Nymphaea flava may winter-kill farther North. 

Nymph^a pygm^ea (tetragona) is the smallest Nymph^a in cultivation The 
flowers are white with yellow stamens, from one and one-half to two and one-half 
inches across. They exhale a tea fragrance. The plant is free in flower The 
leaves are dark green with occasional brown spots, the underside being reddish 
green. 

Nymphaea pygm^a helvola is the result of a cross between Nymph^a pyg- 
m^a and Nymph^a Mexicana. It gives beautiful small yellow flowers which float 
on the surface of the water. They are about two inches in diameter. The leaves 




NYMPHAEA GLORIOSA 

are small, beautifully mottled with brown spots, the under side of a reddish green 
color. The plant flowers freely and is well adapted for tub culture or for planting 
in shallow water at the edge of the pond. 

Nymphsea alba rubra is the true Swedish red water lily; a beautiful flower 
where it thrives well but, unfortunately, the water in nearly all our ponds is too 
warm for it, hence it is very rare in America. It should be grown in a pond, or 

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pool, fed with cold spring water. The color of the flowers is rosy carmine with 
orange stamens. 

Selections of the Best Hardy Water Lilies 

The best six hardy hlies for all purposes should include the following: 
Nvmph^a Marhacea albida, white; Nymphaea Marliaeea rosea, ptnk ; Nymphxa 
Maral chromatella. yellow ; Nymph.a gloriosa. red; Nymph.a odorata Caro- 
hniana, flesh pink; Nymph.-ea Robinsoni, orange red. 

The best twelve should include the foregoing with the £ollown,g additional 
six- Nymphcea Gladstoniana, white; Nymph.a tttberosa rubra, rosy red; 
NymphI gloriosa, carmine rose; Nymph^a W. B. Shaw br.ght rose pmk. 
Nymph^a alba candidissin,a, white; Nyn,ph=ea tuberosa R.chardson,, wl^. 

The best eighteen would include all of the above w.th the add.fon of 
Nymph^a lucida, rosy vermilion; Nympl^a odorata Luciana. rosy pmk; 
Nympl«a odorata, white; Nymph^a fulva, yellow shaded putk; Nymph.a Wm. 
Doogue, soft shell pink ; Nymphsa odorata rosea, rose pmk. ^ 

The best of the sn.all flowered forms are; Nymph^ea pygmaea whte, 
Nymph.-ea pvgm.-ea helvola, yellow; Nymph^a Mexicana, yellow ; Nymphsa 
lMympna:a ij» v,„nh.-pa Sei-noureti yellow shaded pmk and car- 

Laydekeri rosea, rose pmk ; i\yniph.-ea beignourcu, > 

mine; Nymphsea odorata minor, white. 




Dr. W. W. Evans, Hamilton, Va. 

AN AMATEUR" S POOL 



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CHAPTER VII 

NELUMBIUMS 

The7r "Desirahilky m the Water garden 

ELUMBIUMS. or Sacred Lotus as they are ,.ore com- 
monly named form one of the most interesting^ classes 
of plants in the vegetable kinodom. Thev\alvvavs 
command interest and adnnration because of the plant's 
sacred history and its beautiful, laro-e flowers, which 
are borne on tall stems towering above the stately 
sdvery bluish green leaves that often measure from 
two to two feet six inches in diameter and from 
three to eight feet in height. The grand foliage, aside 
from its magnificent flowers, well repays one for growing the Lotus' The 
Nelumbiums begin to bloom toward the end of June and continue t.:) flower well 
into August. The flowers, like those of the Nymphreas, open for three succes- 
sive days. The first day they never open full, but just enough to give one a 
glimpse of their beautiful stamens: the blooms quickly close, opening again the 
following morning, quite full, and remain open for several hours, then tlley close 
to open out quite flat the next da}-, when the petals begin to fall. 

The Xelumbiums are of quick gr.wvth, and if goo.l sized roots are planted 
they will flower the first season, if the location is congenial. If, however, they 
do not bloom the first year, they are sure to do so the following one. 

d he flowers are of beautiful colors, of large size, exhaling a delicate per- 
fume. The plants bloom freely when once established, and are perfectlv hardy 
as long as the roots are below the frost line or are not exposed to actual freezing. 
The Xelumbium is a native of Lidia, and was held sacred bv the Hindus. It 
was early introduced into Egypt and the Egyptians made use 'of the seeds for 
food. The seeds were gathered, dried in the sun, and pounded into a fine meal 
which was then baked into bread. The American Indians utilize the seeds of the 
American yellow Lotus. Nelumbium luteum. in a sinfilar manner. The Chinese 
and Japanese still eat the roots of the plant, which are offered for sale in their 
stores at the present time. 

The Xelumbium speciosum was introduced into America by Mr. E. D. Stur- 
tevant. of Bordentown, X. J., about 1876. A year or two later he set out one 

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, , ;n the ooen which grew so luxuriantly that in eight years a space of three- 
waters an ace was covered with a .ass of flowers and foliage. Fro. t at 
ttae on the Nelunrbium has grown in popular favor and has been planted ex- 
tensivdy in all parts of A.er.ca. Many of the public parks and large pr.vate 
estates have a display of the Lotus every year. 

In Boxes Suimergei in Poni 

But its nlantinc. is by no means restricted to large places only ; many an 
But Its plantm^ is oy ^^^^ Nelumbium 

amateur has his Lotus growu,g m a ha .""^ *" ^ \ ^^ accommodation is 
can be cultivated very successfully m th,s way, .f no 

'""xolrry the roots of Nelumbiums safely through the Winter they should not 

be d- turr/il the Fall or Winter months, and, if possible, ^ ^^^ 

pond or basin throughout the Winter. If the roots are P>- f f / ^/^^^^ ^ 

bottom of the pond, they will be deep down u, the so.l out c^ ach o he 

H in boxes or half barrels in the pond, or basm, *= ™ots w 1 do. 

bottom of the receptacle and therefore out of reach o the f™''' J*; ^^ 

to the bottom of the pond. If this should happen the boxes should be 

a cellar where there will be no danger of them being frozen. 

^"tL Nelumbiums are strong, robust growing plants -^^ ^^^_ 

amount of space, soil and food for their proper •'-^'°^^^^'l^^^^^\,,,,, 

.ended for the Nympha:as will suit the requirements of Nelumb.ums 

T obli he best results in growing Nelumbntms, they should ave a ba m 
. themselves where the roots will be allowed to run at ^^ ^^^^^ 
out roots a distance of fifteen feet in a smgle --°;' - '^^ t n e al other 

generally about eighteen '-'^^^''-^^^^^^Tf^ ts no pratt"^^^ to devote a 

growths in a pond with them will be killed. It n p 

basin to the Lotus, then a part of the pond, or basin. !^°f ^^^^^^^f ^^^^^^j...^, 
form of a box, of whatever shape and size desired. This should 
depTh to reach to the bottom of the pond. If the bottom is of concrete he box 
1 rest on it allowing the edge of the box to extend ^^^^^^ 
■1 ,f least six inches This will keep the floating runners within the conhnes 
: and pr t them getting over the edge. In making boxes for Ne lum^ 

biumsth corners should be filled in with a piece of wood, so cut that it wiU turn 
Te^oots aside and prevent them being Jammed into the corners where they would 

be injured. 

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The best urne to plant the Lotus is in the Spring, when settled warm weather 
has arrived, which will be, generally, about the second week in May in the North- 
ern States. At this time the roots receive very little check by removal as the 
warm temperature starts the plants into growth at once allowing little chance for 
the roots to decay, which they are likely to do if kept dormant for any length of 
time after being removed. If, for some unavoidable reason, planting has^o be 
deferred to a later date, then plants that have been started into growth in pots 
or pans should be procured in preference to tubers. 

In planting the roots care should be taken not to break the growing point of 
the tuber, which would render the tuber useless, and it may then be thrown 
away, unless there is another growing point on the root, which is rarely the case 
The roots should be planted in the soil in a horizontal position and covered with 
soil to a depth of six inches with a coating of two inches of gravel, or coarse sand 
as recommended in the case of Nymphjeas. 




ROOT OR RHIZOME OF NELUMBIUM 

Showing thre. growing points. In planting gr.at car. should be taken not to break the point or the plant wiU die 

[63] 



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Grown in "Boxes or Half Barrels 

Another method of growing the Lotus is to plant it in boxes or half barrels 
.1 -n thP basin treating them in the same way as recommended 

-.1 • fi.. hnve^ and there is therefore little danger of them escapm^. i 

r:;:;::;:r l:: .„ .. .. .. .e. .. o.. .. .„ ---;--- 

b! " :iar.e as the boxes previously described, these half barrels are more eas.ly 
n :d a «; 1 the basin. The boxes, or half barrels, should be overhauled every 
:: y ars. The receptacles should be filled with fresh soil as --™™nd«l 
NyZh^a culture, and three or four roots allowed for each box "^ ^^ J^^_ 
Zy he plants will bloon, the first year. The foUowutg Spr.ug »' ^ ^ "^ 
,„i'ed will be to re„,ove the top soh and afford a good nch op d.es . 
manure, with a little soil ou fop, finishing with a layer of sand or gravel. 

Grown m Tuhs on the Lawn 

Nehuubnuns are also grown extensively in tubs or half barrels placed on the 

I,.v„ The tub is filled with soil to within six htches of the top, the tuber planted, 

and the remaining space in the tub filled with water. ..U that -■-«->; ^f^ 

ward is to replace the water lost by evaporation or seepage, and o s e th. the 

ub emptied at least every two years and fresh soil added. It -s also des.rable 

V oue'or two gold fish in each barrel to destroy the nroscu.to larv. tha wou^d 
otherwise hatch there. In heu of the fish a sn,all c,uan.,fy of X-se-,^ °d. s 
sufficient to cover the water with a thin fihn, can be pu, n,to each ba.rel once 
week; this will kill all the larv;e without injury to the plants 

Nehunbiun, speciosnn, is the well known so-called Egypt.an Lofns. th^^ow 
beautiful flowers about twelve inches across, of a deep rose co or on open 
fi„t day becoming paler as the flower gets older, until the thrrd day wh n tte 
r is creamv wWte at the base and center of the petals, the edge turted hgh. 
role pink The plant has large leaves, deep green above, light silvery green on 
the reverse. It grows and flowers freely. 

In Nelumbi^nn Pekinensis rubrum we have the best of the deep colored 
Nelumbiums. The growth of plant and leaves is magnificent, the flowers are very 

[64] 



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GARDENING 



large, of a bright rose carmine color, the petals somewhat rcflexed as in Nelum- 
bium speciosum, which this plant resembles very much in habit. It flowers freely 
and is verv desirable. 




NELUMBIUM PEKINENSIS RUBRUM 

The best of the deep colored Nelumbiums 

A double form of the preceding is Xelumbium P^ekinensis rubrum flore pleno, 
resembling the_ parent in color of flowers and habit of plant, but differing from it 
in the number of petals. The flowers are very double, and are borne on strong 
stems well above the foliage. 

[65] 



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GARDENING 



Nelumbium roseum gives flowers of a deep rose pink color, free in growth 
and flower. 

Nelumbium roseum plenum is another double form with bright rose colored 
blooms; very free in growth and flower. 




NELUMBIUM ROSEUM PLENUM 

Nelumbium album grandiflorum, sometimes called Nelumbium album flori- 
bunda, gives a fine pure white flower of large size and delicate fragrance. The 
leaves are large and deep green in color. This is the best white Lotus for all 
purposes. 

Nelumbium album striatum is a variety of the preceding, with all its good 
qualities. The flowers are fragrant, w^hite, with the petals striped and tipped 
rosy carmine. The plant is of vigorous growth and free in flower. 

[66] 



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GARDENING 



Nelumbium kermesinum produces flowers of a bright pink color, lighter than 
those of Nelumbium Pekinensis rubrum; is free in flower and of easy cultivation. 

Nelumbium Shiroman is a magnificent variety, giving large double flowers; 
on first opening they are cream colored with a few of the petals tinted a light 



.^^^^ ^^ 




NELUMBIUM PEKINENSIS RUBRUM FLORE PLENO 

green ; as the flower gets older the color fades to pure white. This is a strong, 
robust plant, flowering as freely as Nelumbium speciosum. The blooms last well 
in the cut state. 

[^7] 



I 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



Nelumbium osiris is a beautiful cup-shaped blossom of deep rose color, 
strong in growth and free in flower. 

Nelumbium pygmxa alba is a dwarf, miniature, white flowered variety, truly 
a pygmeea in all its parts. The leaves never grow more than eighteen inches 
above the water. It is very useful for tub cultivation, or for planting at the edge 
of the pond, where a dwarf subject is desired. 




NELUMBIUM SHIROMAN 

A magnificent variety, giving large, double flowers 



Nelumbium luteum, the native American Lotus, is a beautiful yellow flowered 
aquatic, found growing wild in the Eastern and Central States of America. It is 
perfectly hardy, of easy culture, succeeding best where planted out in soil on the 
bottom of the pond. 

[68] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



CHAPTER VIII 



HEATING THE TROPICAL LILY BASIN 




A\'ING located a basin on the lawn, near the dwelling- house, 
it can be heated from the boiler used in the dwelling- during 
the Winter months, thus ena])ling one to grow the tropical 
lilies in the Northern States. All that is necessary is to 
place valves on the flow and return pipes near the boiler, 
so that the circulation can be regulated at will both as re- 
gards the house and the lily basin. A flow pi])e can be 
taken from the boiler, covered with asbestos, and run 
through a terra cotta pipe to the basin, which it should enter 
about six inches below the water level. The return pipe should be taken through 
the wall of the basin near the bottom and back to the boiler in the same manner, 
and in the same trench as the flow pil'C. This will insure a free circulation of 
the water. 

There are two methods of heating a lily l:)asin with hot water — one by run- 
ning pipes all around the basin, thus heating the water by contact with the pipes; 
the other, to use the basin as a large expansion tank, the flow pipe entering the 
basin a few inches below the water level, and the return pipe running from the 
side opposite to that in which the flow enters, so as to insure a proper circulation 
and mixing of the water. 

The first mentioned method is the better of the two, but the more expensive, 
owing to the amount of pipe required. This will be described first: If it is de- 
cided to use the boiler located in the cellar of the dwelling house for heating the 
pond, the flow pipe, if possible, should be graded so that the highest point will be 
at the boiler and a gradual fall secured all the way to the basin. Near the boiler, 
at the highest point, means should be taken to carry off all air that may accumulate 
there. This can be done by a pipe running to the expansion tank comiected with 
the system, or a pet-cock can be used, which will have to be opened by hand to 
allow the air to escape, failing which circulation will be stopped. The flow pipes 

[69] 



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GARDENING 



should enter the basin a few inches below the water level, at which point a tee can 
be placed from which branches can be run around the sides of the basin, grading 
them so that they will have a fall to the far end (12 inches in 100 feet will be 
ample), whence they can be returned, grading them with a fall to the boiler, either 
immediately underneath or a few feet from the flow, which will give a more uni- 
form temperature and a more even distribution of the heat. The size of the pipe 
used will depend on the size of the basin. For very large basins a flow pipe of 
three or four inches will be necessary, which can be run to the basin, and then sev- 







■■v:^v:fvv:^->;.\^;?^v>. S^^>r 



/^^ov /'//°4' 



nnnnnnnn 



, ^^n',€ . v .A f^a- 



& 






n n D n D n 



fes 



:-i;./ Mv/.^ -^--r:.-': 



Top V/£h' o/" lOh/f/? D/f/JW/VG 







6/D£ WflV 



A SUGGESTION FOR A HEATED POOL 

The above diagrams show the method of laying the pipes and arrangement for the boiler connection. The upper diagram also 
shows the position of the boxes in -which the Water Lilies are to be gro-wn 

eral branches of two-inch pipe run through the water. A pipe of similar size will 
answer for the return. The amount of radiation necessary to heat a basin to 90 
is, approximately, one square foot of heating surface to every 100 to 125 gallons 
of water. To ascertain how many gallons of water are to be heated, measure the 
depth, length and width of the basin in cubic feet, add the results, and multiply 
by 7^, which will give the number of gallons the basin contains; then allow one 
square foot of radiating surface to every 100 to 125 gallons of water. 

[70] 



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For the second method it is necessary to find the number of cubic feet of 
water contamed in the basin and the temperature to which the water has to be 
raised during the coldest weather, which will be, approximately, 50. Assuming 
the water m the tank to be 40; and desiring to raise it to 90; find the number of 
cubic feet of water in the basin which multiply by 62/,, the weight in pounds of 
a cubic foot of water. The result is then to be multiplied by the number of de- 
crees It IS desired to raise the water, which was taken as 50: this will give 
the heat units which must be imparted to the water by the fire. Under ordinary 
conditions, boilers of good construction now on the market will radiate not less 
than 7,500 heat units per pound of coal burned. Ordinary boilers will consume 
SIX pounds of coal per square foot of grate surface per hour, with good economy 
It IS necessary, therefore, to find how many heat units it is desired to impart to the 
water; this divided by 45,000 will give the number of square feet of grate surface 
required in the boiler to heat the basin. 

The flow pipe in this instance will be graded so as to have a rise from the 
boiler to the basin, which it will enter a few inches below the water level and stop 
just inside the wall of the basin. A strainer of gauze wire should be connected to 
the end of the pipe so as to prevent all foreign substances entering it. This 
strainer should be of large size; for a three-inch pipe a strainer of from six to 
eight inches diameter will be required; other sizes in proportion. The flow pipe 
should have a valve to be closed when cleaning the boiler, otherwise the basin 
would be emptied. The return pipe should be laid from the side of the basin op- 
posite that in which the flow enters, so as to insure the proper circulation and the 
mixing of the water. The return, likewise, should be protected by a strainer, 
and can be run in the same trench with the flow, but should have a good fall back 
to the boiler. A fall of one foot in a hundred will be ample for both flow and 
return pipes. Near the boiler, on the return pipe, a valve should be placed and a 
mud drum, which can be easily cleaned of any sediment deposited, which other- 
wise would reach the boiler. A very satisfactory arrangement for a mud recep- 
tacle is to place a tee on the pipe near the boiler, which can be increased, by the 
use of reducers, to take a much larger pipe. A piece of pipe about twelve inches 
m length will answer; this can be closed on the lower end by a cap that can be 
easily removed to clean out any sediment lodging there. 

If this latter method of heating be adopted, it is well to have a boiler that can 
be easily cleaned, as in nearly all lily basins there is all the time more or less mud 
in suspension which will be carried to the boiler. The quantity of mud in the 

[71] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 




V-1 




M 






^ 






rt 


C 


"*-* 




r/l 


O 


u 


t; 


fl) 




^f 


il 


o 


n. 




CS 




o 


J3 


3 


o 


.« 


Uj 


r^ 




M 


^ 


^ 


o 



^ Sb- 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



water dcpciuls on how the ])Iants are thrown. If in boxes, and the soil in these is 
covered with a ,q-oo(1 layer of sand, there should he very little muddy water. On 
the other hand, if the lilies are planted in soil on the bottom of the basin, and the 
caretaker has to walk around amono- them, then considerable mud will find its 
way to the boiler in the course of time. 

If steam is available for heating" the water, all that is re(|uired is a pipe to 
circle the basin, with small openings in the pipe, every four feet, through which 
the steam may percolate. ( )ne must l)e certain, however, that the weight or 
pressure of water in the pool is not greater than the pressure of the steam or the 
apparatus will not work. 

As all basins are heated in order to give a temperature in which the tro])ical 
lilies will thrive well a word as to temperature may not be out of place here. 
The best results are obtained when a temperature of 80' to 90 tr^n l^e main- 
tained. A good average will be 85. In this temperature the A'ictoria rcgia can 
be planted early in May, should reach the blooming stage early in July, and from 
that date until late Fall will be in continuous flower. The other tropical lilies 
will reach maturity before the A'ictoria and will keep up a succession of dowers 
until killed by frost. Hence, in heating a lily basin, one can be assured of nearly 
six weeks" gain in the ."spring, and of several wxeks' protracted dowering in the 
Fall. If the Victoria is not to be grown in the basin, a temperature of 75" to 
80° will be suf^cient for the other tender varieties. 

A few facts in regard to heating surface of pij^es of various sizes may be of 
interest. To secure 100 square feet of heating surface in 

1 inch pipe it will be necessary to use 290^4 lineal feet. 
1^4 inch pipe it will be necessary to use 230 lineal feet. 
1 1/2 inch pipe it will be necessary to use 201 lineal feet. 

2 inch pipe it will be necessary to use 161 lineal feet. 
2IS inch pipe it will he necessary to use 132 2-3 lineal feet. 

3 inch pipe it will be necessary to use log lineal feet. 

4 inch pipe it will be necessary to use 84-'4 lineal feet. 

Approximate length of pipe i)er square foot heating surface : 

I inch 3 lineal feet. 

1% inches 2 ft. 4 ins. 

1 yi inches 2 ft. 

2 inches i ft. 8 ins. 

2^ inches i ft. 4 i"s. 

3 inches i ft- i in. 

4 inches i ft. 

One s([uare foot of grate surface will supply 200 to 250 square feet of radi- 
ation surface. A two-inch pipe will supply 200 to 300, and a three-inch pipe 600 
to 800 square feet of radiation. 

[73] 



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GARDENING 



CHAPTER IX 

TENDER OR TROPICAL WATER LILIES 

Day Flowering 

OF the tender or tropical water lilies there are two distinct classes — one 
flowering during the day. the other during the night. The day flower- 
ing ones open their blossoms in the early morning hours and they re- 
main open until afternoon. 

To this section belongs Nymphgea gigantea from Australia, the finest of all 
the da^• l)looming blue lilies. The flowers are of the largest size and delicate in 




NYMPHAEA GIGANTEA 

Tender Day Flo'wering 



color, which is a soft purplish blue shading to white at the base of the petals. 
The stamens are very slender, of a soft yellow, slightly incurving, and quite dis- 
tinct from those of all other Nymphaeas. The flowers are borne on fine stiflf 

[74l 



i 



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GARDENING 



stems well above the water. The leaves are green above, purplish on the under 
side. This plant requires for its fullest development a temperature of 80" to 90' 
with plenty of root room. It should never be subjected to a check from any 
cause. If the temperature of the water in the basin be allowed to fall several 
degrees, and to remain for any length of time below the figures given, the plants 
are likely to go to rest, and may remain dormant the remainder of the season; 
therefore, they should never be allowed to become pot-bound, or be subjected 
to sudden changes of temperature. 

Next in order of merit in this class is Xymphsea Zanzibarensis. This is the 
true royal purple water lily of Africa and still ranks as the best dark blue water 
lily in cultivation. It is extremely free in flower and growth. The plant sets 
seeds freely, but very rarely do the seedlings develop to the true deep purple color 
of the type; therefore, a plant should be procured from some dealer in aquatics 
in the Spring, and, if planted out, will make a tuber that season which can be 
easily carried through the Winter, forming a nice subject for the next season's 
planting. The surface of the leaves is deep green, the reverse being green and 
violet; they are from eight to fifteen inches in diameter. The flowers measure 
from five to ten inches across ; the petals are deep blue, sepals green on the out- 
side, purplish blue on the inner side. The stamens are very numerous, dark 
crimson violet on the outer surface. The flowers are very tragrant. The plant 
is free in flower, blooming continuously throughout the season. 

There are two other forms of this Xymphsea : Zanzibarensis azurea, and 
Zanzibarensis rosea; both are similar to the type in everything but the color of the 
flowers. The bloom of Xymphsea Zanzibarensis azurea is of a delicate azure blue, 
while that of Xymphsea Zanzibarensis rosea varies in color, diflferent plants giving 
from light rose to deep rose colored flowers. 

Another delicate light azure blue flower is X'ymphsea elegans, from Mexico 
and Texas. The blooms are of medium size, rarely exceeding more than three to 
four inches across. The color is a white ground overlaid with light blue. The 
stamens are yellow tipped with light blue. The leaves are long and narrow, green 
spotted chocolate brown. This is a beautiful flower, of dainty color, the plants 
blooming continuously from early in the season until cut down by frost. 

Xymphsea ccerulea, often named Xymphsea stellata, is the blue Lotus of the 
Nile, which was held sacred by the Egyptians. The petals are light blue above, 
dull white below, long and narrow ; the sepals are greenish white on the face, the 
reverse striped and spotted brown. The stamens are yellow. The leaves are 

[75] 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



liglit green, with brown spots which fade to green as the leaves age ; the under 
side is green with dark purpHsh blotches, the edge tinted reddish purple. The 
flowers measure from three to six inches across and have long conical pointed 
buds. The plant blooms freely. 





^ 



NYMPHAEA ZANZIBARENSIS ROSEA 

Tender Day Flowering 



Nymph?ea Capensis (scutifolia), from Africa and ^Madagascar, produces 
tiowers from six to eight inches across of a rich sky blue color. The sepals are 
green on the outside, white tlushed blue on the face. The leaves are green, often 
tinted with purple, the under side frequently tinted red, brown spotted. 

[76] 



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GARDENING 



Nymphsea pnlcherrima. a hyl)ri(l of Xymphct'a ccerulca, is a fine strong- grow- 
ing plant flowering very freely. The leaves are of large size, green, lobes long 
and tapering, the margin crenate : the under side green thickly spotted with 




NYMPHAEA PULCHERRIMA 

Tender Day Flo^vering 

purplish brown. The flowers are from six to twelve inches across, light blue in 
color ; stamens deep yellow tipped with blue ; sepals striped and spotted black on 
the outside. The buds are long and sharp pointed, as in Xymphsea gracilis. 

\77] 



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GARDENING 



In Nymphsea Pennsylvania we have the best of the light blue water lilies. 
The flowers are of large size, from eight to twelve inches across, of a rich blue 
color ; the stamens are yellow tipped blue ; the sepals striped and spotted with 
purplish black. The leaves are green with dark brown spots. This plant is very 
free in growth and flower, several blooms being on the plant at one time. It 
flowers continuously from early in the season until frost. 

Nymphrea gracilis, from Mexico, gives beautiful star shaped flowers, on 




NYMPHAEA PENNSYLVANIA 

Tender Day Flo^verinfi 



strong stems, rising above the water from twelve to fifteen inches. The blooms 
are pure white, with deep yellow stamens, and are slightly fragrant. It flowers 
through the season very profusely, and is specially interesting as being the only 
white flower in the day blooming tender water lilies. 

A number of seedlings have been raised from Nymphgea gracilis, with the 
Nymphasa Zanzibarensis types as the other parent. The results of these crosses 
are a number of beautiful blue and pink varieties, all resembling Nymphsea 
gracilis in the form of flower, stem and habit of growth. 

[78] 



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GARDENING 



Nymphaea Wm. Stone produces flowers from six to eight inches across, of a 
violet blue color, stamens purple with a deep yellow center ; sepals green on the 
outside, grayish blue on the inside. They are carried on strong stems twelve to 
fifteen inches above the water. The flower stems of this water lily are brown. 




NYMPHAEA GRACILIS 

Tender Day Flo'wering 

Nymphsea gracilis purpurea (Bisset) is identical with the last named, with 
the exception that the flower stems are light green. 

Nymphaea gracilis purpurea (Sturtevant) has, on first opening, flowers of a 
rich purple color, fading to violet blue, stamens blue. 

Nymphaea Mrs. C. W. Ward gives flowers of a deep rosy pink color, with 

[79] 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



golden yellow stamens tipped with pink. The flowers are from eight to ten inches 
across. This is a fine strong growing plant, as free in growth and tlower as its 
parent, NvmphcTa gracilis, and is a very desirable variety. 




NYMPHAEA WM. STONE (Blue gracilis) 

(N. gracilis purpurea) 
Tender Day Flo'wering 

Nymphrea gracilis rosea perfecta (Stnrtevant) produces flowers of large size, 
on stems well above the water, of a fine deep pink color, with very little of the 
purple generally found in Nymphsea Zanzibarensis rosea, one of its parents. The 
flowers measure from eight to ten inches across. 

Nymphoea gracilis rubra (Sturtevant) gives flowers from eight to ten inches 

[80] 




THE WATER GARDEN M 

The Home or J'j 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 




jOAKS, WASHINGTON, D. C. 

f G. Hubbard 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



across of a deep rosy cri„,so„ color; s.a,™„s crimson ; very nn.ch deeper in color 
than those of Nympha;a Zanzibarcnsis rosea. 

As Nymph^a Mexicana is no. hardy in'the colder sections of the country it 
may be well to g.ve a short description of it. TI,e flowers are bright canary 
yellow from four to five inches in dian,e.er, risin.5 on stems four to^ix inches 
above the water; the stan,ens are ,?olde„ yellow, tl,e leaves dark green blotched 
w.th brown; the un<ler side dark crin.son brown 

A selection of the best kinds woukl include the following ; Nyn,ph..ca gi,.an- 
tea, Nymph^a Zanz.barensis, Nymph.-ea Zanzibarcnsis rosea, Nymphaea l-^n^svl- 
v;ama .Nymph.-ea Wn,. Stone, .\ympha,a gracilis and Nymph^ea Mrs C W 
Ward. 

y^ight Flowering 

The flowers of the night flowering water lilies open a., the evening falls and 

rematn open all night, contuK-ncing to close the follow-ing ntorning, if the ^nn is 

bnght and clear, about ,0 o'clock. If the sky is overcast and the weather cool 

^ they reman, open until i p. „,. The tin.e of closing of the flowers varies an.l i, 

regulated very much by the weather, whether bright and warn,, or cloudy and 

cool. Toward the end of the season, when the weatl,er and water are cool, the 

I flowers reman, open day and uight. 

■ Nympha;a Lotus, of Egypt and Africa, is the white Lotus of the Nile The 
j leaves are dark green, from twelve to twenty inches in diameter. The flowers are 

1 "''";'/™'V" T'" '""'" '"°"' "'■"' ''""'^ '°"'''-' vet.UoH.n tinted pink 

Nymph^a dentata, from Sierra Leone, gives very large pure white flowers; 

I measuring fron, eight .0 fifteen inches across; the outer row of stan,e„s is pure 

J yellow, the n,ner ones yellow with brownish purple spots near the base The 

leaves are dark green, deeply dentate, from twelve to eighteen inches across. The 

P^ant flowers freely and continuously throughout the season. This is thought by 

kafand hi™'' """'"^' '■°""' '"' "" '"° ''' ™'">' '"«-'="' "' «»»", 

[ Nymphaea dentata superba is a new water lily, first offered for sale in the 

I Sprmg of 1906. It has a beautiful pure white flower, measuring from eiH,t to 

j twelve ,nches in dianreter, with yellow stamens without any trace of publish 

brown making it the only one of this type that does not show the brown near the 

■ ,r 1 ' '' f "'"■ ^'' ''""' ''' ^"'"' "'"■ f^'"' S--"^'' -hite stripes on 
the outs.de, the inner side being white. This plant is also unique in that it comes 

[81] 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 




NYMPHAEA DENTATA SUPERBA 

A beautiful Night Flowering white Water Lily, introduced in the Spring of 1906 

true from seed, therefore sliould have specific rank. The leaves are large, deep 
glossy green, finely dentate. The plant flowers very freely. 

Nymphsea dentata magnifica (a seedling from Nyniph?ea dentata X 
Nymphcxa Bisseti) (Bisset) is another new white water lily of the first rank. 
The flowers measure from eight to fourteen inches in diameter, have very wide 
petals, slightly concave, giving the flower a cup shape that enhances its 
value. The stamens are pure yellow with purplish brown spots near the base. 
The leaves are heavily dentate with wavy crumpled margins ; when exposed to 
the full sun the center of the leaf will take on a bronze color ; they measure from 
twelve to eighteen inches in diameter. 




NYMPHAEA DENTATA MAGNIFICA-New Hybrid 

Tender Night Flowering 



[82] 



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GARDENING 



Nymphaea Jubilee gives white flowers from six to eight inches across. The 
petals and sepals have a slight tint of pink at their base. The leaves are green 
blotched with brown on the under side; the margin is crumpled and wavy, deeply 
dentate. 

Nymphaea Smithiana produces creamy white flowers. The stamens are pure 
yellow; the petals broad, slightly concave, suffused with pink on the outside. 
This is a beautiful flower when seen at its best, which is rarely the case as it re- 
quires a high temperature to perfect its color. 




NYMPHAEA JUBILEE 

Tender Night Flowering 

Nymphaea Devoniensis has the distinction of being the first hybrid among 
this beautiful class of plants. It was raised at Chatsworth, England, in 185 1, and 
named in honor of the Duke of Devonshire. The flowers are from eight to twelve 
inches across, of a bright rosy red color, and are borne on fine stiff stems well 
above the water. The stamens are cinnabar red. The surface of the leaves is 
dark bronzy green, greenish brown underneath. The leaves measure from twelve 
to eighteen inches in diameter. The plant blooms very freely, several flowers in 
all stages of development being in evidence at one and the same time. 

[83] 



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GARDENING 



Nymphsea rubra is very similar to the last mentioned. The petals are less 
pointed than in Nymphsea Devoniensis, while the sepals are wider at the base. 
The leaves are mottled purplish brown on the under side, reddish bronzy brown 
on the surface, from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter. The tiowers measure 
from six to ten inches across. There is little doubt that the true Nymphsa rubra 
has been lost to cultivation, and that what is here described as rubra is only a 
srarden varietv. 




NYMPHAEA DEVONIENSIS 

Tender Night Flowering 

Nymphc-ea rubra rosea is a fine water lily, producing blooms from six to ten 
inches across, of a deep brilliant rosy carmine color. The petals are wide at the 
base, tapering to the point ; the stamens are reddish brown at the tips and orange 
brown at the base. The leaves are deep green above faintly spotted brown with 
a slightly dentate margin. 

Nymphjea O'Marana ( Bisset) gives flowers from eight to twelve inches 
across, of a beautiful rosy red shade with a faint tinge of white down the center of 

[84] 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 




NYMPHAEA RUBRA ROSEA 

Tender Night Flo-wering 



the petals. The stamens are deep orange red ; the leaves deep bronzy green above, 
vi^ith dentate margin ; the reverse brownish green. This is one of the finest and 
freest flowering of all the night blooming class. 

Nymphsea George Huster is a seedling from Xymphnea O'Marana. The 




NYMPHAEA OMARANA 

Tender Night Flo^vering 



[85] 



I 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



color of the flower resembles that of Nymph^a rubra rosea, which was no doubt 
the pollen parent of this fine variety. The plant is as free in growth and flower 
as Nymph^a O'Marana, which it resembles in everything but the color of the 
bloom, which is a brilliant crimson. 

Nymph^a Deaniana produces light pink flowers. The sepals are deep rose 
pink both sepals and petals being very wide. The stamens are of a deep orange 
red color The leaves measure from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter and 




NYMPHAEA STURTEVANTI 

Tender Nigtt Flowering 

are dark bronzy green. The flower is cup shaped, after the style of that of its 
parent, Nymphjea Lotus, of which it is a seedling. 

Nymphsea Sturtevanti is a fine flower where it can be grown in a temperature 
of 80° or over. It delights in heat, and is never at its best unless kept warm. The 
flowers, from eight to twelve inches across, are of a beautiful rosy pink ; the petals 

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very broad and incurving, giVing the bloom a fine cup shape. The stamens are 
orange brown in color. The leaves are large, bronzy green ; the margins crumpled 
and wavy, with dentate edge. 

Nymphasa Frank Trelease is the deepest colored of its class, the flower being 
a brilliant glowing dark crimson, measuring from eight to ten inches across. The 
stamens are deep reddish brown. The leaves are extra large, from fifteen to 
eighteen inches across, of a beautiful dark bronze color; the under side is greenish 
brown. This variety is similar to Nymphjea Devoniensis in the form^ of the 
flower, but not so free in blooming, in which quality it is rather shy. 




NYMPHAEA BISSETI-A New Hybrid 

I Tender Night Flowering 

l| 

I Nymphaea Bisseti (Bisset) is another pink flower, of beautiful form, the 

j result of a cross between Nymphaea dentata and Nymphsa Sturtevanti. The 
j flowers measure from eight to ten inches across, are of a beautiful rose pink color, 
j the petals being extra wide, slightly concave, forming a cup shaped bloom. The 
stamens are deep orange colored ; the leaves deep bronzy green above, the under 
side brownish green with dark brown spots. The plant is very free in flower 
and growth. 

Nymphaea Kewensis produces light pink flowers, from six to eight inches 
across. The leaves are dark green, slightly bronzed with a few spots of deep 
brown. There is a doubt of this being the true Nymphsa Kewensis. 

[87] 



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CHAPTER X 



VICTORIA REGIA 




T 



Flower ol 

EURYALE FEROX 

First cousin to Victoria regia 



lilS remarkable water lily was named in honor of 
the late Queen A'ictoria, by Dr. Lindley, who 
described and so named it, in 1837. It has very 
large, round, floatiuf^- leaves from four to seven feet in 
diameter. The edges of the leaves are turned up from two 
to eight inches at right angles to the surface of the water, 
giving the leaf a platter-like appearance, hence one of its 
common names, "the Water Platter." Another popular 
name given it by the natives of South America is "Water 
Maize," or "Water Corn"; this is a very appropriate appel- 
lation as the seeds are gathered and eaten by these natives. 
The riowers, measuring from eight to fifteen inches across, 
open at dusk and remain open all night, partly closing 
about 10.30 a. m., and again opening at nightfall. The 
color of the flower when lirst expanding is a pure creamy white gradually chang- 
ing, as the flower grows older, to pink, and then to deep purplish red on the sec- 
ond night. The flower is very fragrant, exhaling a sweet pineapple odor that is 
perceptible a great distance from the plant. The upper side of the leaf is of a 
rich green color; the lower surface of a deep purplish green, with many very 
prominent veins that radiate from the center to the margin of the leaf; these 
again are connected by smaller veins running transversely, so that the whole under 
surface is divided into a number of irregularly arranged quadrangular compart- 
ments or pockets. The vein and leaf stalk are covered with strong spines. The 
under side of the leaf is well shown in the illustration. 

The A'ictoria is represented by three well defined sorts which are native cf 
South America, from British Guiana to Argentina. It was first discovered by 
Haenke in Bolivia, in 1801 ; again by Bonpland near Corrientes, Argentina, in 
1819, and by Poeppig, in 1832, on the Amazon River, who described it under the 
name of Euryale Amazonica. D'Orbigny found it in 1827, at Corrientes, and 
again in 1833 in Bolivia, but he did not publish his record until a few years later, 

[88] 



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[89J 



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mental herbaceous plants 



[90] 



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In 1836 Robert H. Schombiirgk discovered the \"ictoria growing in the Berbice 
River in British Guiana, whence he sent specimens to England which Dr. Lindley 
described and named Victoria regia in 1837. Schomburgk, in describing the 
largest plant he saw, said that one leaf measured six feet five inches in diameter 
with a rim five to six inches high ; the flowers were fifteen inches across. It may 
be of interest to state that the size of the leaf as here given has been exceeded 
in cultivation. On a plant grown in the Bartholdi fountain basin, in the United 
States Botanic Garden at Washington, D. C, in 1891, the largest leaf measured 
seven feet six inches across; the plant covered a space of forty-seven feet in 
diameter. This plant was grown without artificial heat after it was set out on 
the first of June; it was under the care of Mr. George W. Oliver. 

The other species found at Corrientes was named Victoria Cruziana. in honor 
of General Santa Cruz of Bolivia, by D'C )rbigny, in 1840. This is the species 
that was introduced to American gardens in 1894, and the following year sent out 
as Victoria Trickeri. It succeeds well in a much lower temperature than either 
Victoria regia or Victoria Randi ; therefore is better adapted to outdoor culture. 
The {Dlant is similar to \'ictoria regia in leaf and flower, except tliat the turned 
up edge begins to show at a much earlier stage of growth. The leaf is also of a 
lighter green color all over the surface, with purplish green below whilst its upper 
edge is more even and uniform than in the other species in which it is rather 
uneven and ragged. This Victoria also flowers much earlier than either regia or 
Randi, and requires less heat to hrmg it to ])erfection. The seeds will germinate 
in a temperature of 70" to 75' and the plant can be grown in a temperature 
10' colder than can X'ictoria regia. 

In 1840 Bridges obtained seeds of Victoria regia from the province of Moxos, 
in Bolivia, and sent them to Kew Botanical Gardens, England; from this seed 
three plants were growai but they died the following Winter. Early in 1849, seeds 
arrived in England from two physicians named Rodie and Luckie, who sent them 
from the Essequibo River, in bottles of water. From these plants were raised, 
and on November 8 of the same year one flowered at Chatsworth. England. From 
this plant seed was distributed throughout Europe, some of it being also sent to 
America. The first plant grown in the United States was in the garden of Mr. 
Caleb Cope, at Philadelphia, the late Professor Thomas Meehan being the gar- 
dener. The first flower opened on August 21, 185 1. 

In 1886, Mr. E. D. Sturtevant, of Bordentown, N. J., flowered a plant raised 
from seed that he obtained from Mr. Edward S. Rand, Jr., of Para. Brazil. This 

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was quite distinct from Victoria regia, the flower being white changing rapidly 
to deep crimson. The foHage was reddish colored, with very prominent reddish 
veins on the outside of the turned up edge of the leaf, the rim of which was deeper 
than in Victoria regia. This variety was named Mctoria Randi, 




FLOWER OF VICTORIA REGIA 



The Victorias require a high temperature and full exposure to sunlight to 
bring them to perfection, which cannot be done in the northern section of Amer- 
ica without artificial heat. The plants will grow and do well in Washington, 

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D. C, without artificial heat during one of the hot Summers for which that city 
is famed ; but, ordinarily, they will not flower in time to ripen seed, rarely bloom- 
ing until the latter part of August. The proper temperature for Victorias regia 




UNDER SIDE OF A LEAF OF VICTORIA REGIA 



and Randi is 85° to 90° ; Victoria Trickeri will succeed in a temperature of 70° 

to 75°- 

The Victoria, as grown in gardens, is treated as an annual, the seeds being 
sown every year. These should never be allowed to become dry as this is fatal to 
them. As soon as they are gathered they should be kept in bottles of water. The 

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seed sluniUI lie sown in jannarv or I'eliruarv. in a teniperalnre as near to 85° as 
possible for rei^ia and Randi. while ihose of Triekeri slionld be stnvn in a temper- 
ature of 70' to 7^\ la'forc sowinj;-, lile or enl a small hole tlu\)Ui;h the hard outer 
shell of the seed, as is conmionly done ^\•ith eanna seed. This nielhod was first 
tried bv Mr. lames I". Clark, of Iviverton, N. j., with wonderful success, in 




FLOWER OH VICTORIA REGIA TRICKERl 

germinating- the seeds of Mctoria. Stwv the seeds in a shallow Fern pan, or pot, 
filled with fine soil without manure, and stand the pan in a tank of water, within 
four inches of the surface, jdacing it where it can have the full sunlight. If a 
heated brick or cement tank in which to start the seed is not available, a tank made 

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of copjx'r or galvanized iron slioulrl be procurcfl, and tlic lieal .supplied b\- a small 
oil stove. By this means plants can Ije grown ; but it is a very unsatisfactory 
method as the lamp will require very careful watching, and with the best of 
care the temperature of the water will fluctuate considerably. The best jjlan is to 
have a cement or brick tank located in the greenhouse, near the boiler, whence a 
sejjarate flow and return ])i])e should be run to the tank, aivl around it, under the 




A FLOWER OF VICTORIA REGIA RANDI 

water, so as to secure the necessary temperature. When heat is not required in 
the other greenhouses the valves on the heating pipes entering these houses can be 
closed, thus keeping the tank at the desired temperature for the Victorias without 
having to carry the heat through the other houses when it is not needed there. 

Some of the seeds will germinate in from two to three weeks, while others 
may take much longer. As soon as the young plants have made the second, or 

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floating leaf, they should be potted singly into two and one-half or three-inch 
pots, u'lin^'soil which has passed through a one-half inch screen, with the addition 
of one-third manure. The plants can then be placed in a tank where a tempera- 
ture of 85° to 90° can be maintained. The young plants should never be allowed 
to become pot-bound but should be shifted on into larger pots as they require it; 
and within three months they should be in eight or ten-inch pots or pans. It is 
preferable to use a pan as, being of less depth, a shallower tank is required for its 
accommodation. The plants should not be set out in their Summer quarters out 
of doors until settled warm weather has arrived. It must be remembered that as 
the Victorias come from a tropical climate a sudden check would prove fatal to 
them; therefore, before planting in their Summer quarters the temperature of the 
water in the basin in which they are to be placed must be the same as that in which 
the plants had previously been growing. If the basin is heated, the Victorias can 
be planted in the open any time after the first of May in the latitude of Washing- 
ton and Philadelphia; for New York about the second week, and for Boston 
toward the end of the same month. The dates here given refer to an ordinary 
season, but in setting out any tender plant one should not be guided by the date 
but by the condition of the weather. A safe rule would be to plant the Victorias, 
if in a heated basin, as soon as It is safe to plant out Coleus in the open ground. 
The size of the basin necessary in which to grow a plant of Victoria should 
not be less than thirty feet across, with a depth of three feet at the center where 
the box or receptacle for soil will be placed. This box should be eighteen inches 
deep and from eight to twelve feet square. It is not necessary that the basin 
should have a uniform depth of three feet, the bottom can slope from this depth 
to from one foot six inches to two feet at the edge, if so desired. Also, it will be 
unnecessary to have the full three feet in depth, as a box of one foot will answer 
as well as one of eighteen inches, provided it is made large enough to afford the 
plant the same quantity of soil. Some means of heating the basin, in places 
farther north than Washington, D. C, is necessary in order to obtain the best 
results and the reader is referred to a previous chapter on "Heating the Tropical 
Water Lily Basin." 

In greenhouse establishments where very tender tropical plants are grown a 
little fire is carried in the boilers through the Summer ; in such places it would 
be well to locate the Victoria tank near the boiler house, so as to utilize the same 
boiler for heating the tank. 

When Victoria plants are ordered from growers of water lilies, they are 

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generally shipped in the pans in which they have been growing. On their 
arrival the temperature of the water in the pond should be taken, and if found 
below 80° the plants should be placed in a greenhouse tank ; or if such a tank 
is not available, then a half barrel or any other receptacle large enough to hold 
the plant should be placed in the greenhouse, where the water surrounding the 
plant can be kept at the desired temperature until the water in the pond can be 
made warm enough for the safe planting of the Victoria outside in its Summer 
quarters. 

The Euryale ferox was, until the discovery of the Victoria regia, the largest 
and handsomest of all the aquatic plants in cultivation as to size of leaves, which 
resemble the young leaves of the Victoria before the edges turn up. The leaves 
of the Euryale are round, deep green in color, with many little rounded eminences 
on the upper surface ; the under side is of a rich purple color with the same prom- 
inent veins and spines as seen in Victoria. The size of the leaves is from two to 
three feet in diameter ; the flowers are small, about two inches across, of a deep 
purple color. The plant is a native of India and is cultivated near Bengal for its 
seeds, which are gathered, baked and eaten by the natives. The plant is a hardy 
annual as far north as Philadelphia, coming up every year from seed selfsown the 
previous Summer, plants from which in turn will ri])en seed and self sow in a 
similar manner. 




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CHAPTER XI 

THE SMALL WATER GARDEN 



Selections of the Best VC^ater Lilies and S^quatic Plants for the Beginner 

T 



IE l)cst water lilies for g-ro\ving in a half barrel, if two plants are to be 
grown in the one receptacle, arc Xym])lKea pygnicca, white ; Nymph?ea 
pygiiKea helvola, yellow; or in ])lace of either of these, Xynipha^a 
Laydckeri rosea, pink. 

A half hogshead will accommodate two plants of the hardy water lilies, of 
moderate growth. The best red or wine colored one is Xymphsea gloriosa ; the 
best white, Nympha^a Marliacca albida ; the best yellow\ Nymphsea Marliacea 
chromatella. 

For growing in a small tank the best hardy lilies are the last mentioned 
three and the following: Nymphc-ea Andreana, Xymphoea James I'rydon, Xym- 
phrea W. 15. Shaw, Xymphrea Robinsoni, XymplKca Laydekeri rosea, X'ymphaea 
Marliacea rosea and Xymphaea Gladstoniana. 

The tender day flowering lilies are more vigorous in growth than the latter 
and, therefore, require more room. Only one plant can be grown in a half barrel, 
while two will be sufficient for a half hogshead. The best pale blue is Xymph.xa 
Pennsylvania ; Xvmph<iea gracilis is the onlv white day bloomer. The best pink 
is Nymphsea Mrs. C. W. Ward; the best dark blue, Xymphaea Zanzibarensis. 
Nymphzea Zanzibarensis rosea is a fine variety ; the color ranges from light to 
deep rose ])ink. XymplKca \\'iu. Stone is an attractive deep blue lily of the 
gracilis type. 

The night flowering water lilies are too strong and robust to be grown suc- 
cessfulh' in either a half barrel or hogshead. The best of these for a small basin 
would l)e the following: Xynn)lKea liisseti, pink; Xyniph?ea O'Marana, pink. 
The best whites are Xymi)li;ea dentata magnifica and X^ymphaea superba ; rosy 
carmine, X\-m|)h;ea rubra rosea; ])urplish red, Xympha?a Devoniensis. 

A fine arrangement for a small lawn, where it is not desired to construct a 
basin, is to procure several half barrels, placing one in the center, raised above the 
level of the grass, and filling it with Nelumbium speciosum, which is a light pink; 
or X^elumbium album grandiflorum, if a white is preferred; or X^elumbium Pekin- 

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ensis rubrum, if a deej) pink is desired. Around this center tulj can he placed 
others containing a selection of the water lilies ])reviously named. Soil can he 
filled in between the barrels and in this soil some of the following- plants set out; 
Cyperus Papyrus; Cyjjerus alterniff)liu> ; Thalia dealljata ; Sagittaria Alontcvidcn- 
sis ; and, ruiming over the soil as a carpet, the .Myrio])hyllum proserpinacoides. 
These plants should be kept well watered, as they are all semi-aciuatic subject.^., 
delighting in lots of water. 

Among aquatic plants other than the X_\niph;eas, suitable for growing in 
tubs, Limnocharis Humboldtii is one of the best. It grows f|uicklv and flowers 
profusely all Sununer, bearing yellow ]K)])])y-shaped blooms. 

Limnanthemum indicum is a very ];retty ])lant for a tul) ; it bears little 
white flowers beautifully fringed, and blooms very freely all Sumiuer. Limnan- 
themum nymphaeoides gives pretty little golden yellow^ ll(nvers, and blooms pro- 
fusely all the season. These two ])lants can be grown in the same tub if the last 
named is kept pinched back so that it will not overrun the former and choke it out. 

The Water Hyacinth, Eichhornia speciosa, is also well adapted for growing 
in a tub, which should be half filled with soil, the remaining space with water, and 
the plants placed in the tub. They will soon root in tlie soil and commence to 
fiower, continuing in bloom all through the Summer, ddiey flower best in a l)ar- 
tially shaded position, or where the sun will only reach them during the morning 
and afternoon hours. 

Eichhornia azurea is also a fine plant for a tub : it is a stronger plant than 
E. speciosa, but flowers as profusely throughout the Sumiuer. 




NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA ROSEA 
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CHAPTER XII 

MISCELLANEOUS AQUATIC PLANTS 

UND^:R this head arc inchuled all plants that grow entirely submerged — 
roots, stems, and leaves — also such plants as grow in water but send 
up stems and leaves above the surface. The former plants are mostly 
grown in ponds and tanks where fish culture is carried on, as they are useful in 
keeping the water supplied with oxygen and also give the fish excellent material 
to spawn on, the eggs adhering to the stems and leaves. They are also grown in 
aquaria for the same purpose. The others are cultivated for ornamental pur- 
poses, many of them having flowers or attractive foliage to recommend them. 

Acorus calamus (Sweet Flag) grows to a height of two to three feet, and 
has lance-shaped-leaves. 

In Acorus calamus varicgatus the young leaves are striped with a deep yel- 
low, which fades to a paler color as they get older. 

Acorus gramineus growls to a height of from eight to twelve inches, forming 
a round grassy tuft. 

Acorus gramineus varicgatus is a beautiful variegated plant ; the leaves are 
narrow, grass-like and striped with white. All the Acorus grow in shallow 
water or in damp soil, and are propagated by division of the root in Spring or 
Fall. 

Anacharis Canadensis gigantea (Giant Water Weed) is the finest submerged 
water plant for the fish culturist, or for the aquarium. It is a rapid growing 
plant, with dark green linear leaves and brittle stems. It will grow floating on 
the water or planted in the soil ; it is perfectly hardy and a little of it in the pond 
will be useful as it is an excellent thing for the gold fish to spawn on. Care 
should be taken, hoii'ever, tJiat it does not get beyond eontrol or it zvill prove a 
nuisance. 

Aponogeton distachyum (Cape Pond Weed) is a very interesting aquatic 
plant from the Cape of Good Hope. The white flowers are borne on forked 
spikes and are arranged in pairs. They are very fragrant, having the odor of 

fiool 



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the hawthorn. The anthers are purple, the leaves oblong-, lanceolate, floatin<y on 
the surface of the water. This is a fine subject for naturalizing in ponds where 
it can be planted in water of a depth of two feet and where the water does not 
freeze over. In the Northern States it is best lifted and carried over the 'Winter 
in the greenhouse tank where it will flower toward Spring and continue blooming 
for a long period. 

Azolla Caroliniana is a small, floating moss-like plant, which increases rapidly 
by self-division. When this plant is exposed to direct sunlight tlic small leaves 
take on a reddish tinge. It is useful for the aquarium. 

Butomus umbellatus (Flowering Rush) is a very pretty aquatic, with narrow 




LEAF AND FLOWER OF APONOGETON DISTACHYUM 

Cape Pond Weed 

three-cornered leaves from two to three feet in length. The flow^ers, which are 
purplish pink, are borne at the end of a long round stem. This plant will grow 
in shallow water in the pond or planted in wet soil ; it is also useful for the 
aquarium if planted in soil in a pot. 

Brasenia peltata (Water Shield) is a plant with oval, entire, floating leaves. 
The flowers are small and purple colored. It is an interesting plant for the pond 
or for the aquarium. 

Cabomba Caroliniana (Washington Fish Grass) is another useful plant for 
the aquarium, growing entirely submerged ; it emits roots readily. The leaves are 
green, oblong-linear. The flowers are one-half inch wide, white with two yellow 
spots. The plant is hardy as far north as New Jersey. 

Cabomba rosaefolia is similar to the preceding except in the color of the 
leaves, which are tinged with pink on the under side ; it is also more tender than 

Cabomba Caroliniana. 

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The Caboinhas are only desirable for aquaria or fish ponds. They should 
be planted in soil, in small pots, which can be hidden from view by placing stones 
around theiu on the bottom of the aquarium. 




CYPERUS PAPYRUS 

The true Egyptian Paper Plant 



Callitriche verna (Water Starwort) is a fine submerged plant, with dark 
green leaves, which grow close together at the ends of the stems, forming a mass 

[102] 



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of green star-like clusters on the surface of the water, it should Ijc planted in 
soil and kept near the surface; if ke])t in deep water it will soon die, 

Callitriche autumnalis is similar to the former, hut never rises ahove the 
surface of the water; therefore it can he planted at the hottom of the aquarium. 

Caltha palustris (The Alarsh Marigold) grows to a height of from one to 
two feet, and hears bright yellow tfowers. It should he ])lante(l in shallow water 
or in wet soil. Propagatifju is effected h\- division of the roots in earlv S])ring 
or when the plant is through flowering. 

Ceratophyllum demersum (Common Hornwort) is another useful ])lant for 
the acjuarium. The ends of the young shoots shmild he used, it has narrow 
bristle-like leaves growing around the stem in whorls ; the individual leaves arc 
divided three or four times into forks, making a verv dense i)lant. It grows 
entirely submerged, and should be [jlanted on the bott(jm of the a((uarium. This is 
a native plant found wild in ponds and still water in all sections of the country. 

Cyperus alternifolius is one of the finest plants for growing at tlie QiV^c of 
the pond in shallow water, or in the aquarium. It is also an excellent house plant, 
thriving well in the dwelling when other plants die. It recjuires a dee]) rich soil 
for its best development, and is quite at home with its roots in water either out- 
doors or indoors. As it is a! tender ])lant it must he wintered in the greenhouse 
or dwelling. The picture on page 140 is reproduced from a i)hotogra])h of a ])lant 
growing at the edge of a water lily ]3ond. The Cyperus is pro])agated bv division 
or by young plants that grow on the top of the leaves. 

Cyperus Papyrus is the true Eg}ptian ])aper jjlant. It is a fine graceful jjlant 
for the water garden. Planted in a box of soil, a few inches below the^surface 
of the water, it will grow rapidl}' and make a very fine specimen before Fall. It 
grows from ten to fifteen feet in height, with long stems, at the top of which is 
the moplike head of fine grasslike leaves. This ])lant is tender and should be 
removed to the greenhouse at the ajjproach of frost. It is |)rf)pagated from seed, 
also by division of the stems, which should be divided while the ])lant is in a 
vigorous growing condition, either in Summer or Spring. 

Eichhornia speciosa — Eichhornia crassipes major— (Water H\'acinth) is a 
showy, interesting floating plant, much used in ponds and tanks. It cost the United 
States Government thousands of dollars in an eff'ort to exterminate this i)lant 
from the St. Johns River, Florida, where it grew so luxuriantly that it obstructed 
navigation. However, this will never happen in the Northern States, as there it 
is a tender plant, always killed by a few degrees of frost, and therefore can never 

I '03i 



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GARDENING 



prove a weed- The petioles are inflated, forming a sort of bladder arrangement 
that keeps the plant afloat. If the water is shallow the plants will take root in 
the soil, and grow and flower more freely than if floating around in the water. 
The flowers are borne on a stem about one foot in height, six to eight flowers in 
a loose spike. The flowers are pale blue with a large blotch of deep blue and a 
yellow spot on the upper lobe. 

Eichhornia azurea, a variety of the Water Hyacinth without the inflated 
stems of the preceding, is a strong, vigorous phnt with large flower spikes. The 




EICHHORNIA SPECIOSA-E cras.ipes major 
Water Hyacinth 

flowers are of a beautiful shade of lavender blue. This plant thrives best in rich 
soil in shallow water. It can be planted in soil in a box submerged a few inches 
below the surface of the water. It is a tender plant and must be wintered in the 
house. 

Fontinalis antipyretica (Willow Moss) is a native plant well adapted for the 
aquarium, being a fine plant for supplying oxygen to the water. The leaves are 
small and dark green. It is an excellent hardy plant, growing attached to stones 
submerged in the water. 

Hippuris vulgaris (Mare's Tail) is a plant found wild in the ponds and pools 

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of the Northern States. The young plants are useful for aquaria. It has straight 
stems on which the leaves are arranged in whorls of from eight to ten. It grows 
entirely submerged. 

Hydrocharis Morsus-ranag (European Frogbit) is a graceful floating water 
plant for the aquarium or pond. It is hardy and easily grown. The leaves are 
kidney-shaped, beautifully veined on long stalks. The pure white flowers are 
three-petaled. Its method of self-propagation is very interesting. When the plant 
begins to ripen, small buds are formed at the end of the runners, which drop to 
the bottom of the pond where they remain dormant until the return of warm 
weather, at which time they rise to the surface and begin to grow. After the buds 
have dropped to the bottom of the pond the old plant dies. 

Jussijea longifolia is another attractive aquatic plant, growing from two to 
three feet in height, and bearing numerous axillary, beautiful bright yellow flow- 
ers. It is well suited for the edge of the pond, planted in shallow water, or for 
growing in a tub. It is best treated as a tender annual, the seed being sown in 
Fall or Spring, in shallow water. The seeds are very small and should be sown 
in fine soil ; when the young plants have made three or four leaves, or as soon as 
they can be properly handled, they should be potted off into small pots and shifted 
as they require it until the time to plant them out arrives. It is not necessary to 
grow it in water. After the young plants have been potted off they can be grown 
on a bench where they can be well supplied with moisture. 

Lemna minor (Small Duckweed) is found floating on the surface of the 
water in nearly all natural ponds in America. They are very small plants, with 
small ovate light green leaves or fronds, having one rootlet attached to each frond. 

Lemna polyrhiza is a larger plant than the foregoing. The leaves are nearly 
round and about one-half inch across, of a dark green color above and purplish 
underneath. Each leaf has a nimiber of rootlets attached to the under side. 

Lemna trisulca (Ivy-leaved Duckweed) has leaves of a light green color, 
about one-half inch in length, elliptical and very thin and serrated near the end. 
The young leaves grow at right angles to the old ones ; attached to each leaf is one 
rootlet. 

Lemna gibba (Thick-leaved Duckweed) has nearly round, thick leaves, about 
one-third of an inch across, flat above and rounded underneath, of a bright green 
color, wuth one rootlet attached to each leaf. 

Limnanthemum indicum (Water Snowflake) is a very pretty little plant with 
light green heart-shaped leaves. Its flowers come in clusters at the junction of 
the leaf and the petiole. The flowers are white with yellow centers ; the petals are 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



completely covered with little white hairy glands. It thrives in rich soil, in shallow 
water, and is an excellent plant for a tub or for the aquarium, blooming profusely 
all Summer. It is a tender plant and will require to be taken into the house before 
frost sets in. 

Limnanthemum lacunosum (Floating Heart) is a pretty native hardy plant, 
with heart-shaped, mottled leaves, about two inches across. The flowers are small 
and pure white. For best results it should be planted in soil in the pond at a 
depth of water of from eighteen inches to two feet. 

Limnanthemum Nymphoides (\'illarsia Nymphoides) is a pretty aquatic 
plant with floating leaves, like those of a Nymphsea, and golden yellow flowers 
about one inch in diameter. The leaves are from two to four inches across. This 
is one of the best of the small aquatic plants ; it is liable, however, to become a 
weed if not kept within bounds. It has become naturalized at Washington, D. C, 
but will require protection farther north. 

Limnanthemum trachyspermum (Fairy Water Lily) resembles a miniature 
water lily, and has leaves from two to three inches wude. The flowers are pure 
white, borne close to the leaves on the leaf stem. This is a native plant found 
growing in ponds from New Jersey to Florida. 

All the Limnanthemums are best kept within bounds by planting them in 
submerged boxes and not allowing them to extend beyond an allotted space. They 
all flower profusely and are very pretty. 

Limnobium Bosci — Limnobium spongia — (The American Frogbit) has 
leaves from one to two feet in length, of a dark green color, heart-shaped, tinted 
with purple underneath, and purplish roots. This is an evergreen plant and, not 
being hardy in the Northern States, will require to be wintered in the house. 

Limnocharis Humboldtii (The Water Poppy) is a beautiful little yellow 
flowered aquatic plant. The thick floating leaves are broad, oval, of a deep 
green color. The flowers pale yellow, from two to two and one-half inches 
across, are borne on stems that rise well above the water. It should be planted 
in soil, in shallow water not over eight inches in depth, and where it will have 
the full sunlight. It is a tender plant and, therefore, must not be exposed to 
frost. It is an excellent subject for a tub or for the aquarium in either of which 
it will flower profusely through the season. See illustration, page 107. 

Limnocharis emarginata (Limnocharis Plumieri) is an erect growing aquatic 
plant reaching out of the water to a height of from one to two feet. The leaves 
are cordate, four to six inches long, of a light green color. The flowers are pale 
straw colored from one-half to three-quarters of an inch in diameter. It likes 

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rich soil and should be planted in shallow water in the pond. It is also desirable 
for the aquarium. The plants are tender and should be wintered in the house. 

Ludwigia Mulerttii is a tender plant much used for aquaria purposes. 
The leaves are bright bronzy green above, tinted with deep crimson on the 
under side; they are oblong lanceolate. The flowers are small, yellow colored. 

Ludwigia palustris (Water Purslane) is found growing in wet soil or in 
shallow running streams and in ponds all over this country. The leaves are 
long, oblong; the flowers are small and reddish colored. It is useful for the 
aquarium. 

Myriophyllum proserpinacoides (Parrot's Feather) is a favorite aquatic 
plant for the aquarium and for fountain basins. The leaves grow in whorls of 




LIMNOCHARIS HUMBOLDTH 

The Water Poppy 

four to five ; the segments are from twenty to twenty-five. This is a beautiful 
plant, having light green, feathery leaves. It is a strong, rampant grower, per- 
fectly hardy from New Jersey southward. If not kept within bounds it will 
prove a great pest in the warmer sections of the country, as it will overrun 
everything. It is an excellent plant for the aquarium where it should be planted 
in a pot of soil, and the pot hidden by stones on the bottom of the vessel. It is 
also a beautiful plant for the basins of fountains. The long stems grow out 
over the edge and droop gracefully over the stone, forming a curtain of living 
green. Another use to which it can be put is to treat it in the same way as the 
Japanese Fern balls are treated, that is. by planting the roots in a ball of moss 
and keeping it wet. An illustration of this subject is presented on page 30. 

Myriophyllum verticillatum has submerged leaves, in whorls of three to 
four; the divisions are verv fine and slender; also useful for the aquaria. 

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Myriophyllum spicatum has submerged leaves in whorls of four to five dis- 
sected into slender capillary divisions ; the floral leaves are ovate, entire or 
serrate ; the flower spike from one to three inches long. 

Myriophyllum hetrophyllum has submerged leaves in whorls of four and 
five, linear or lanceolate. The flower spike is from twelve to eighteen inches in 
length. All of the Myriophyllums are useful for aquaria or for fish ponds. 

Nuphar advena (Common Spatterdock) has large leaves about a foot in 
length, cordate-ovate to cordate-oblong ; they are thick, nearly always with an 
open basal sinus. The flowers are from two to three inches across and are cup 
shaped, not opening flat, yellow colored, often tinged with purple. Both flowers 
and leaves rise above the water. 

Nuphar polysepalum is a larger plant than N. advena, with yellow colored 
flowers from four to five inches across. 

Nuphar rubrodiscum has smaller leaves than N. advena. The flowers are 
from one to one and one-half inches across, yellow with the stigmatic disk 
bright red to crimson. They are suitable for planting near the edge of the 
pond, where they will soon establish themselves. They are not of great decora- 
tive value except for the leaves that rise out of the water. 

Orontium aquaticum is a handsome aquatic perennial plant, growing from 
twelve to eighteen inches in height. It flowers in Summer, and has a narrow 
spadix densely covered with small yellow blossoms. It should be planted at the 
edge of the pond, or in wet boggy soil. It is perfectly hardy. 

Ouvirandra fenestralis (Lace-leaf Plant) is one of the most interesting of 
aquatic plants. The leaves are skeletonized, of dark olive green color, floating 
just under the surface of the water ; they are from six to eighteen inches in 
length, and from two to four inches wide. The flowers are borne on two spikes 
that are joined at the base, and carried on a stem about twelve inches long, 
rising above the water from two to three inches ; they are very small and are 
borne in great numbers arranged around the two spikes. This is a tender green- 
house plant from Madagascar. It thrives best in a tub of water placed in a 
shady part of the greenhouse, where it will be kept at an even temperature of 
seventy to seventy-five degrees. It should be potted in a good rich soil such as 
has been recommended for Nymphgeas. Propagation is by division of the plant 
and from seed. The plant is often covered with alg?e ; if this should happen, a 
few tadpoles or water snails of the Planorbis type, especially the variety corneus, 
which prefers algse and confervse growths to more valuable plants, will soon 
clear the leaves. 

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Peltandra Virginica (Water Arum) has dark green leaves, sagittate, on long 
petioles. The tlower spathe is green, from four to eight inches in length. 

Peltandra sagittjefolia (White Arrow Arum) has sagittate leaves, wider 
than those of P. Virginica. The petioles are from eight to twenty inches long, 




OUVIRANDRA FENESTRALIS-Lace Leaf Plant 

View to the left shou'S tlic flower and a perfect leaf 

the spathe whitish, from three to four inches in length ; the spadix is much 
shorter than the spathe. The staminate flowers are borne on the upper half of 
the spadix. 

The Peltandras are fine plants for shallow water, at the edge of the pond. 

Pistia stratiotes (Water Lettuce) is a very ornamental aquatic plant. It 
forms a rosette of light green velvety leaves, with long, slender feathery root- 
lets. The plant floats on the surface of the water and is from four to six inches 
across. It sends out side runners on which young plants develop. The Pistia 

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likes a shady position and should be in water where its roots will reach the soil. 
Being a tender plant it must not be exposed to frost. 

Potamogeton crispus (Curled-leaved Pondweed) is another useful plant for 
the aquarium. It has linear oblong leaves, one-half to four inches in length and 
about one-half inch in width, slender, narrow and crimpled, serrated; the stems 
are long and flattened. This is a native plant found in ponds and slow running 
streams ; it likes a sandy soil, 

Potamogeton natans has broader leaves than P. crispus. If planted in deep 
water the leaves will be long, grasslike, entirely submerged ; other large oval 
leaves will rise to the surface and float on the water. The flowers are small, 
green colored, borne on spikes above the water. It grows in ponds and slow- 
running streams and is principally used for aquarium purposes, 

Proserpinaca palustris (Mermaid Weed) grows to a height of twenty 
inches. The submerged leaves are oblong or linear lanceolate, one to two inches 
in length, very narrow and finely divided as in the Myriophyllum. It likes a 
sandy soil. 

Proserpinaca pectinacea (Cut-leaved Mermaid Weed) is similar to the 
preceding, but a smaller growing plant. 

Pontederia cordata (Pickerel Weed) is a fine native aquatic plant found 
growing in shallow water. The leaves are arrow-shaped, carried on long stalks, 
rising from one to two feet above the water. The flowers are blue, borne on a 
close set spike. It is useful for planting in shallow water at the edge of the 
pond. 

Ranunculus aquatilis (Water Crowfoot) is a fine plant for the aquarium. 
It is found in streams and ponds, sometimes covering the entire surface with 
its attractive leaves and flowers. The leaves are of two different types, the 
lower ones being always submerged and divided into numerous hairlike seg- 
ments ; the upper ones are three-lobed, with round notches, and float on the sur- 
face of the water. The flowers are white with yellow stamens. 

Sagittaria Montevidensis (Giant Arrowhead) is another fine plant for the 
edge of the pond in shallow water, or for planting in moist soil at the margin ; 
it is also suitable for the aquarium. The leaves are arrow-shaped, with long 
diverging basal lobes. The flowers are white with a purplish blotch at the base, 
and measure from two to three inches across. The plant will not stand frost ; 
and unless the roots can be planted below the frost line they should be taken 
up in the Fall and stored in moist sand until the Spring, 

[no] 



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EIGHT DESIRABLE WATER PLANTS 

I. Anacharis Canadensis. 2. Potamogeton natans. narrow^ leaved. 3. Potamogeton crispus. 4. Sagittaria Sinensis (Giant 
Sagittaria). 5. Sagittaria natans. 6. Myriophyllum proserpinacoides. 7. Lud\vigia Mulertii. 8. Cabomba Caroliniana 



[III] 



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Sagittaria pusilla (S. natans) is a small growing plant with simple slender 
grasslike leaves, only growing a few inches in height. The flowers are white, 
one-half to three-quarters of an inch across, borne in a single whorl. The plant 
is only valuable for the aquarium. It can be planted in soil, or sand, at the bot- 
tom of the aquarium, and treated as a submerged subject. This is the small, 
grassleaved plant so much used in aquaria. 

Sagittaria latifolia is a very variable plant, growing from a few inches up 
to four feet in height. The leaves are broad sagittate, with long basal lobes. 
The flowers are pure white, about one inch in diameter. It grows luxuriantly 
at the margin of ponds and streams, and is also useful for the aquarium. 

Sagittaria sagittsefolia has a thick tuberous rhizome, the leaves are broad, 
sagittate. The flowers are white. 

Sagittaria sagittsefolia flora plena (S. japonica fl. pi.) is very similar to the 
preceding, except that the plant bears large spikes of pure white double flowers. 
This is a very desirable subject for the edge of the pond. 

Sagittaria Sinensis is a plant of similar habit of growth and leaf to S. 
natans, but larger in every way, growing more freely — a splendid plant for 
aquaria. 

Salvinia Braziliensis is a pretty floating aquatic plant suitable for the aqua- 
rium. It has slender stems with two-ranked oblong leaves, which are soft and 
green, covered with delicate hairs on the surface. This little plant should be 
taken into the house in Winter. It is an annual and frequently dies in Winter. 
After ripening its spores the spore capsules fall to the bottom and lie there until 
germination sets in. This, and S. natans, are supposed to be identical. 

Saururus cernuus (Lizard's Tail) is a fine plant for the margin of the pond, 
reaching from two to two and one-half feet in height. It is a hardy perennial 
plant growing in swampy soil. The leaves are heartshaped, and it has small 
fragrant white flowers, borne on a dense terminal spike that curves gracefully 
over at the end. It flowers in June and July. 

Scirpus lacustris zebrina (S. tabernsemontana zebrina) is a fine ornamental 
rush, growing from three to four feet in height, having beautifully variegated 
leaves with alternate bands of green and yellowish white. It grows well in 
shallow water, or when planted in a moist place. It is quite hardy. 

Scirpus Holoschoenus variegatus is the variegated form of the Siberian rush. 
The stems are from twelve to eighteen inches in height, variegated with alternate 
bands of green and yellowish white. This plant grows in moist or ordinary 
garden soil. It also is hardy. 

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Stratiotes aloides has long narrow pointed serrated leaves and large white 
flowers, borne on the end of stalks about six inches in length. It delights to 
root in the muddy soil at the bottom of the pond, where it remains entirely sub- 
merged, only coming to the surface of the water to flower. This is a fine aqua- 
rium subject and can be planted in the sand or allowed to float on the surface 
of the water. 

Trapa natans (Water Chestnut) is a floating aquatic plant. The petioles 
of the floating leaves are from two to four inches long. The leaves themselves 
are about one inch in length, mottled or variegated. The flowers are reddish 
white. The seeds are large and black and are armed with four spikes or spines ; 
they are edible and taste somewhat like chestnuts, hence the common name, 
"Water Chestnut." This plant likes to root in a good rich loamy soil. It is an 
excellent subject for the tub, aquarium, or pond, ^ 

Trapa bispinosa has floating leaves of from two to three inches in length, 
the upper half slightly crenate ; the petioles are from four to six inches long. 
The seed is about an inch long, broad and hairy, quite frequently with only two 
spines, or with the other pair just showing. 

Typha latifolia (Cat-tail) is a fine hardy subject for planting at the edge 
of the pond in water or in wet soil. It grows in tufts of two-rowed flat leaves, 
eighteen to twenty-four inches long ; the leaves from one to one and one-half 
inches wide. From the center of the leaves springs the flowering spike to a 
height of from six to seven feet. The flower is a close cylindrical spike, six to 
nine inches in length and about one inch in diameter, of dark brownish black 
color. See illustration on page 164. 

Typha angustifolia is similar to the preceding except that the leaves and 
flower spike are narrower and more graceful. 

Typha minor is a miniature form of T, latifolia, 

Typha minima is a dwarf, growing only to a height of from twelve to 
eighteen inches, with dense globose heads. 

All the Typhas are excellent for shallow water treatment; they are per- 
fectly hardy and are very attractive when in flower, with their black spikes and 
dark green lancelike leaves. 

TJtricularia vulgaris is a hardy native aquatic plant, with two to three 
pinnately-divided floating leaves, one-half inch in length, with fine hair-like 
segments provided with bladders of a purplish color. The flowers are yellow, 
one-half to one inch long, on racemes of six or seven flowers on the upper end 

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of the stalk, rising out of the water. This is an interesting plant for the aqua- 
rium. 

Vallisneria spiralis gigantea (Giant Eel Grass) is a hardy submerged aquatic 
plant, with ribbon-like leaves, about half an inch in width and from one to 
two feet in length. The white flowers are borne on long, spiral, threadlike stems, 
rising to the surface of the water. This is a very useful plant for the fish pond 
and for the aquarium. 

Vallisneria spiralis is similar to the last named but of smaller growth. 

Zizania aquatica (Wild Rice) is a fine plant for the pond, where it should 
be planted near the edge, in shallow water. The large loose flower panicle is 
produced on stems of from five to ten feet in length. The plant forms a fine, 
grasslike clump, and is quite attractive. This is an annual and requires to be 
raised from seed every year ; however, it will self sow and come up annually. 




NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA CHROMATELLA 



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CHAPTER XIII 

THE AQUATIC PLANT GREENHOUSE 

FOR best results in the cultivation of tropical water lilies a heated tank in 
the greenhouse is necessary; here the plants can be started into growth 
early in the year, so as to have them in six or eight-inch pots when plant- 
ing out time comes. Plants from this size pot will commence to bloom at once and, 
therefore, give a longer flowering season than if smaller plants are set out. Any 
style of greenhouse will answer for this purpose. The ideal structure, however, 
is an even span house, about twenty feet wide insidei measurement, with brick or 
concrete walls ; a tank on either side three feet wide, with two walks, each two 
feet six inches wide, and a tank down the center six feet four inches wide. This 
will allow of four side walls eight inches thick for the tanks. 

It is well in building tanks for the growing of water lilies in the greenhouse 
to have them of a width so that all the plants can be reached from one side or 
the other. The center tank should be equally divided by a partition, so that one- 
half can be kept warmer than the other. One tank should have a two-inch heat- 
ing pipe run around the sides (For number of square feet of pipe required 
see pages 70 and y;^) ; each of them should be supplied with a valve so as to 
enable the operator to control the temperature of the water. Most of the time 
one pipe will be sufficient to maintain the necessary temperature. The cooler 
tank should have one two-inch pipe down the center, valved so that the heat can 
be regulated. The greenhouse should be piped to maintain a temperature of 70° 
in the coldest weather. 

If the system of overhead heating is carried out, the pipe entering the tanks 
can be dropped from the flow pipe, run to the far end of the tank and there con- 
nected with the return to the boiler. Where the pipes go through the walls of 
the tank, it is advisable to have a large pipe, of the same length as the wall is 
thick, built into the wall for the heating pipes to pass through. This will prevent 
the cracking of the wall by the expansion of the heating pipe. The wall can be 
made tight where the pipe goes through, by using the long screw and washer 
described on page 72. 

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It is needless to say that all pipes and fittings used in the tanks should be gal- 
vanized to prevent their rusting. The tanks on the sides of the house need not 
be over twelve inches deep. For the center tank a depth of i8 inches will be 
found very satisfactory. One of the side tanks should have heating pipes around 
it so as to insure a temperature of 80°. About four feet of this tank should be par- 
titioned ofif at one end, and extra pipes run in so as to carry a temperature of 85° 




AQUATIC PLANT GREENHOUSE AT SCHENLEY PARK. PITTSBURG, PA. 

to 90°. In this tank the Victoria regia can be grown. The other side tank need 
have no heating pipes and could be used principally for carrying over stock. All 
the tanks should be provided with an overflow and an outlet. One pipe can be 
made to answer for both of these by having a piece of pipe, with an L screwed on 
to it, built into the bottom of the tank so that the mouth of the L will turn up- 
ward; into this L a piece of pipe can be loosely screwed of sufficient length to 
reach the water level in the tank, which should be about one inch below the top 

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of the wall. When it is desired to empty the tank the standpipe may be easily 
unscrewed and the water thus allowed to escape. 

Another house, less pretentious, nevertheless very satisfactory, is to have a 
tank located outside of sufficient width to be covered by a hotbed sash. The 
walls of this tank can be formed of concrete or brick and the back wall carried 
up eighteen inches above the front one so as to shed the rain. The side walls 



,11. 




Courtesy l.onl ,t^- r.uriiliaiii ('cjMiiiiirjy, New York 
AQUATIC PLANT GREENHOUSE OF SAMUEL UNTERMEYER, ESQ.. AT GREYSTONE. YONKERS. N. Y. 



should slope with the pitch of the roof. A boiler pit can be dug at one end and 
a small boiler installed to heat the tank. The flow pipe should enter the tank a 
few inches below the water level at the end next to the boiler; and the return 
pipe be run from the far end. This will provide a good circulation and keep the 
tank and space above the water perfectly warm. This style of heating is described 
on page 72. It is simply using this receptacle as an expansion tank for the 

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circulation of the water. This can be arranged at a nominal cost and will give 
very good satisfaction. 

Of whatever material the tanks are made they should be filled with water 
when completed and allowed to stand for two or three days ; the water should 
then be drawn off so as to get rid of any impurities from the materials used 
before the plants or fish are placed in the tank. 

Tanks of brick and concrete have been treated of only, as they are by far the 




Courtesy Lord it Kurtilmiii Company, New York 

CURVILINEAR GREENHOUSE FOR AQUATIC PLANTS 

most satisfactory. If it is not possible to build a tank such as has been described 
one can be constructed of matched boards, lined with copper, zinc or galvanized 
iron. This can be placed on the iieating pipes, or, what is more satisfactory, a 
small heating pipe can be run through the tank to keep the water at the desired 
temperature. Another method is to leave off a part of the woodwork on the 
bottom of the tank, thus exposing the metal, and by placing an oil stove or lamp 
under this the necessary temperature can be obtained in which to start both seeds 
and plants. One of the advantages of the portable tank is that during the Sum- 

[ii8] 



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GARDENING 



mer months the tank can be carried outside and the greenhouse used for the cul- 
tivation of other plants until time to start up the water lilies agam. 

So far only greenhouses for raising water lilies for plantmg out m the Sum- 
mer have been described. There are some places where an aquatic plant green- 
house is kept for growing and flowering water lilies all the year. In th.s case 
the greenhouse should be of large size and, preferably, have a curv. mear oof. 
A large tank should be built toward the center in which to grow the V.ctorra 
regia and other tropical night flowering lilies; while smaller tanks can be located 




Courtesy Lord & Buniham Company, New York 

THE AQUATIC PLANT POOL AT BRONX PARK. NEW YORK 

Showing the planting out box« before the water is turned on 

on the sides for growing the smaller water lilies of the day ""-""^ ^'^^^^ J' 
will be best to have all these tanks of irregular outline, and a wa k wmdmg among 
,hem approaching to the edge of the tank in places to enable one to see the 
flowers. An irregular border can surround the tanks in which can be grown such 
plants as Cyperus Papyrus, Cyperus alternifolius, Cyperus altern.fohus var.egata^ 
Musa Ensete, Musa Dacca, Musa zebrina, Musa vittata and Colocas.a ant.quorum 
var. esculenta (Elephant's Ear) ; Colocasia odorata, also Alocasia macrorh.za 
variegata, Xanthosoma sagitt^folium and X. violaceum. To the foregomg can 

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be added Crotons, Dracaenas, Ferns, Palms, or any other plant havino- large 
tropical foliage that will stand the full sun and be in keeping with the surround- 
ing growth. No plant should be used, however, that will not stand full exposure 
to direct sunlight in which the water lilies delight, so the glass should never be 
shaded. The ground around tiiese plants can be covered with Tradescantia or 
other low creeping subjects, and at the edge of the tanks can be grown Lim- 
nocharis Humboldtii, Limnanthemum indicum (Water Snowflake), Eichhornia 
crassipes major, Eichhornia azurea, etc. The plants named, with the exception 
of the Snowflake, are rather strong and vigorous and will have to be kept in 
place or they will soon cover the water. 

For a list of other subjects suitable for planting around the tanks see 
Chapter XV. The tanks can be built either of 'brick or concrete. The smaller 
ones should have a depth of two feet; the larger one, where the Victoria regia 
is to be grown, should be three feet deep. The walls of the tank should be finished 
with a suitable coping and extend about twelve inches above the ground level. 

vvater Lilies for vv inter Flowering 

Water lilies are frequently grown for their flowers in the greenhouse during 
Winter. They afford a change from the ordinary florist's stock, and are al- 
ways acceptable to the flower lover. The varieties that give good satisfaction dur- 
ing Winter are the two day flowering blue lilies, Nymphsea pulcherrima and Nym- 
phsea Pennsylvania ; these will often have four or five flowers open at one time. 
The night flowering Nymphseas dentata superba and dentata magnifica will give 
fine white flowers. Nymphgea O'Marana and Nymphsea Bisseti are beautiful 
pinks that bloom very freely throughout the Winter months. For a very deep 
red, none will prove more desirable than Nymphaea rubra rosea. 

Young plants of the varieties named should be potted up during August, 
and kept growing by giving them larger pots or boxes as required. On the 
approach of cold weather the plants should be removed to the greenhouse tank, 
where a temperature of 75° to 80° can be maintained in the water. The plants 
will commence to flower immediately and continue blooming throughout the 
Winter. 

Where an orchid house is available, a good plan is to have a tank located in it 
for growing Nymphaeas. The moisture arising from the water will be found ben- 
eficial to the orchids. A greenhouse, with tanks as described on preceding pages, 

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will prove an ideal structure for the growth of water lilies for Winter flowers. 
No special cultural directions are required for the greenhouse treatment of water 
lilies; simply have the plants well established before cold weather arrives. The 
plants will make more growth in one day in August than in several days in 
November, hence the directions to commence work in the former month. The 
water in the tanks should be kept as near to the temperature mentioned as 
possible. See that all decaying leaves are removed, and the plants syringed 
with a good force of water daily ; this will hold the black aphis in check, as well 
as keep the plants clean. 

While a large number of flowers will be cut from a plant during Winter, 
the plants do not bloom free enough, for the amount of space required for their 
proper cultivation, to induce anyone to erect greenhouses for their cultivation 
exclusivelv, with the intention of selling the flowers. 




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CHAPTER XIV 

PROPAGATION OF WATER LILIES 

Raising Water Lilies From Seed 

EEDS for water I,ly propagation roqt.irc a ta„k or other vessel 
at w., ,„,„ ,„, ^^^^ „^^^_^^ ^^ ^^^_^^^_^^ ^_^^ jcs. 

'1'^ eecl can be placed i„ , „„„, greenhonse, when the tem- 
pera t.re w.n ,«.ep the water sttfficiently warn. The se^d 

«ater a a en,perature of front 70 to 80, Sow the seed a, 

J lie ntost ttsefni and easily handled, taking very little water to 

.^sha,iow.er-:;L:'rf:;;;rLrt^,^ 

filled .0 w.th,n one inch of the hrin, with very finely screened soil, a? sc ^ 
rev.ous chapter. Sow the seed and place over it a light cov rin. of san 
at has first een pnt throngh a fine screen. The pan should then h lid 
to a V ssel o water, abont fonr-fifths snbnterged, and allowed to remain the:^ 

Id ft,! "tM' ""' "" *^ ^°"' '"" '■"^- --■ '■--'"«".>- 

ri 1 fl at ' T """""' '' °"" '''" ^°""- "- -^d, being drv 

.11 float on the surface of the water and, if several varieties are sown !t the 

I "; ir; :r ■"'^^'- '•^- '°"°"'"^" "- "-"<' '"-""^^^ -o- of .he i : 

will float if It be m good condition. 

After the pans have been in the water long enough for the seed to become 
thoroughly soaked they should be placed in the tank, allowing an inch or t Jo 
water above the soil. It makes very little difference how.deep the pans are sub- 
rnerged. as the seeds will grow if sown eighteen inches under water, and will 
send their leaves to the surface in due time. 

shoui?b '";^';°f' "'"/ "^^ '''^ =''°"'d be placed at one end of the tank, which 
should be divided ofif from the remainder by a partition of fine wire to protect 

both seed and labels over the tank. If it is not practicable to divide the tank, then 

[12,3] 



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. small piece of one-quarter-ineh mesh wire should be cut to fit over each pan 
^trabslt^; necessary to have the seed protected in some way when gold fisn 

"^ ^r r ::e"<::. ^^ their appearance they loo. very much li.e 
fine ^rass They should not be transplanted until they have made what ts termed 
the fi's floating leaf ; that is, the first leaf to rise to the surface and oat on th 
w ter They Should be potted singly into two-inch pots, or transplante mto 
ToK ; two inches apart each way. The boxes should be two mches .n depth, and 




Lotus Type 
Night flowering 



TYPES OF SEED VESSELS 

Zanxibarensis Type Gracilis Type 

TKese three are day flowering 



Odorata Type 



Night riowci.ug 

of any si.e that can be easily handled. A box fifteen by -fteen inches is^^^^^^^^^^ 
convenient size. The soil should have incorporated m tt ^ ^^^'^l^^l^ 
manure, and should not be too coarse. After pott.ng, or « *^ ^ /^"^^ ^, 
be covered with a layer of fine gravel that has been passed through a screen 
one ha inch mesh. If gravel cannot be obtained coarse sand w.U answer. Th, 

tne yuuug p . ^„j Knvps both in the srreenhouse tank ana 

and it should be used always on pots and boxes, both in t g 
in the larger boxes in the pond. After the young plants have filled the two 

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pots with roots, or begin to crowd each other in the boxes, they should be af- 
forded larger pots, using soil a little coarser than at first, and with more manure 
in it. When the plants reach the three-inch pot stage, they can be potted in the 
soil recommended for the larger plants. 

The plants should be repotted whenever they have filled the pots with roots, 
in the same way as a Geranium or Rose would be treated. The aim should be 
to keep the young plants in a good growing condition, and this can only be done 
when they have sufficient root room and plenty of good soil. Therefore, see 
that the young plants, have all that they want to keep them growing vigorously 
until the time arrives for planting them out in their Summer quarters. 

Water lilies that are easily raised from seed, and that are sure to give satis- 
faction, are those of the Zanzibarensis section. Nymphsea Zanzibarensis is a fine 
dark purple lily that will not always come true from seed. The seedlings ob- 
tained from the true dark purple variety will give flowers ranging in color from 
deep blue to pale lavender. Nymphsea Zanzibarensis coerulea, as the name de- 
notes, gives pale sky-blue flowers ; it is grown extensively from seed. Nymphaea 
Zanzibarensis rosea, a pink-flowering form, is also easily raised from seed. These 
three day bloomers are the best to commence with and, after being successful 
with them, the experiment can be tried of raising the more difficult ones. 

In the night-blooming class, Nymphaea dentata, a large pure white, is readily 
raised from seed. A fitting companion to this is the beautiful night-blooming 
pink lily, Nymphaea O'Marana. Both of these can be raised from seed and, if 
sown early, the seedlings will flower the first year. 

The seeds of the hardy lilies take longer to germinate, and are slower to 
reach maturity. Seeds of some of the tender lilies will germinate in ten days ; 
but those of the hardy sorts often take three months and have been known to 
lie dormant for a year and then grow. The best results are obtained by sowing 
the seeds of the hardy lilies as soon as harvested in the Summer. They can be 
sown in boxes or pans, and placed in the pond or tank out of doors, where they 
will germinate and make a few leaves. Before the water becomes too cold to 
chill the young plants, these receptacles should be removed to a cool greenhouse 
or a frost-proof cellar, and the plants kept covered with a few inches of water. 
They should not be disturbed until growth commences in Spring. When the 
plants have made a few new leaves they can be transplanted into pots, or boxes, 
which will keep them growing until the time to plant them in their Summer 
quarters. 

• [125] 



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Seedlings of all of the tender night flowering and day ilowering varieties 
can be raised in the saiuo way. If the seed is sown as soon as ripe, throngh 
)ul\ and August, uiost of the \ oung phuUs w iU forui small tubers before frost, 
winch will eanv them safely through the Winter in quarters similar to those 
reeonimended for the harily sorts. 

If neither greenhouse nor lank he available in which to raise the seedlings, 
one need not despair, for many line plants of the Zanzibarensis section have been 
grown in uothiug belter than an ordinary porcelain bowl. The truth is, seeds 
of water lilies can be germinated in any vessel thai will hoUl water kept suffi- 
ciently warm. .\ nielhod thai is \er\ satisf;ictory. when one has no tank in which 
to sow the seed, is lo till a pol w ilh tine soil, as recommended above, sowing the 
seed and then slandiug the pot in a saucer kepi full oi water. The soil will ab- 
sorb the water h\ capillar\ allracliiMi. and this will keep it sutificienilv wet to 
germinate the seed and start the young plants growing for several weeks. When 
they begin to crowd each other they shoulil be potted off singly, and the pots sub- 
merged in waler. In sowing seed by this latter method care shoidd be taken to 
have the soil sweel, and enough saiul shoidd be adiled to the soil so that the pro- 
portion will be one-half of each. 

If it is not desired to raise the plants from seed, young plants in all stages 
of growth can be purchased from the dealers in this class of stock. In this way. 
tine healthx' j^laiUs can be secured that will be sure to llower early in the season, 
as the growers are well equippctl with heated tanks to raise these plants to per- 
fection. 

ProPi2 (Ration of Icnacr vvatcr Liilies 

To get tubers of the tender water lilies for stock raising, a few plants of 
each variety should be grown in small pots all Summer. The pots should not be 
larger than six or seven inches in diameter. The plants will soon exhaust the 
food in the soil and then will commence to form small tubers. When the plants 
have ripened up. which will be shown by the leaves becoming yellow, brown 
and red, the pots should be taken from the water and laid on their sides in a 
moist place inider the greenhouse bench, where they will not dry out too rapidly, 
anil where is maintained a temperature of from 50" to 60 . Here they should 
remain, protected from mice and rats, until Spring. 

Tender water lilies are generally raised from the tuberous roots which are 
started into growth from the month of Jannarv on. according to the supplv of 

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Stock, In the case of a new variety, of which the stock is limited, the tubers 
can be grown all Winter and the young plants potted up as formed. The tubers 




'.OT5 Or THE V.'ATZR ULlLi 

. -n-ixig t-iKO yfiiif pli«t« rciCy to ie »eysr*t«.-a. Ti • 



are genera-.y winter 



are p. 



taken from the ->ond in the FalL in pots or boxes of saad kept moist but not 

[127] 



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wet. The tubers are placed in pots, in shallow pans or boxes, in a light soil 
that has been passed through a fine screen. This screening of the soil is to 
insure the safe removal of the fine white roots, when the young plants are 
separated from the tuber, which would surely be broken if coarse soil was used. 
After potting, they should be placed in a . heated tank in the greenhouse, 
four or five inches below the surface of the water, which should be kept 
at a temperature of from 75° to 80°. The tubers will soon commence to grow, 
sending out shoots the same as the Potato does. These shoots then send out 
leaves and, at the base of the leaf stems, roots are emitted. As soon as the young 
plants have one or two floating leaves they should be separated from the parent 
tuber and potted singly into two and one-half or three-inch pots, using a little 
coarser soil with the addition of one-third rotted cow manure. After the young 
plants have been removed the tubers can be replaced in the boxes or pans, and 
will give another crop of young plants in a few weeks. After potting the young 
plants the soil should be covered with a layer of coarse sand, or fine gravel, and 
the plants placed in a tank where the same temperature can be maintained as 
that in which they had been previously growing. The pots should be immersed 
deep enough to allow the floating leaves to reach the surface of the water. If 
they should be placed in deeper water than here stated, no harm will come to 
them, as, if strong and robust, they will send the leaves to the surface even if 
there is eighteen inches or two feet of water above the plants. All that is now 
required is to see that the young plants are kept in a growing condition, without 
any check from cold, or by becoming pot-bound. They should be repotted into 
larger pots as required, using soil with one-third to one-half cow manure. As 
the size of the pot increases, the soil used can be coarser in texture until the 
ordinary compost soil is employed. 

The Zanzibarensis types make small conical tubers that should not be 
allowed to go to rest. The best method of handling this type, after lifting the 
plants from the pond, is to pot them up into as small pots as will contain them, 
wintering them in a rather cool tank where they will have a temperature of fifty- 
five to sixty degrees, in which temperature they will remain in a semi-dormant 
condition, ready to start into growth with the warmer weather of Spring. They 
sometimes make side tubers which can be separated and potted up, or carried 
through as recommended above for the night-flowering class. 

The tubers of this class do not send out a number of shoots as do those of 
the Dentata class, yielding but one single plant from the top of the tuber. This 

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GARDENING 



plant, when well rooted, can be removed and potted and the old tuber returned 
to the tank, when a month or two later it may give another young plant. 




TYPICAL ROOTS OF HARDY WATER LILIES 

Tte illustration to tke left skows a brancking type vnth tke cro'wns close togetker. To tke rigkt is skown a long running root 
■witk a young skoot growing from tke side. Tke wkite lines skovi' points of separation for purposes of propagation 

See page 130 



The tubers of the Gracilis types can be kept dormant all Winter, stored in 
sand, in the same manner as the night-flowering types, and treated similarly to 
them. To this class belong IMrs. C. ^^^ Ward, gracilis purpurea, William Stone 
and gracilis. 

[129] 



THE nOOK OF 
WATl'.K. 

i.:AR.ni:.Ni.Ni; 



Hy Utvtsion 

riu- lianlx water lilies .'M\> propatjatcil by division of llic rhizomes. Some of 
them heai- seed and eaii he iiieieased hv this means, hut \o i;el ihem to come true 
it is neeessarv to (hvide the root. 

Soiiu- of the lihes Iiave Ioiil; tliiek spieadiui; riiols, with a lars^e muiiher of 
j;i(n\ iui; |>oiiits. or eves, on \\w\\\ ; otheis ha\e a siui^le thiek erown which cannot 
he di\ ided. I ade\keri rosea is a L^ood example oi this class. IMants o{ il can 
ont\ he procured liom dealeis in water lilies. 

I ,ilii's o\ the (.KitMata section have lono spreading; roots, with manv t^rowitii^ 
points on each rotit ; these can he cut olT, a few inches in length, planted sinp^ly 
in lH>\es ov pots, .nid within a short peiiod w ill make tloweiini; plants. The same 
is true of all othei h.ird\ lilies. 

Nymiih.ea ]iyL;in.ea is raised from seed and not h\ division. 

'The h.ii(l\ lilies can he divided at an\ time the plants are in active growth. 
Tlu' lu-st time to ili\ide them, howe\er, is in Sprinj.^, just as active t^rowth coin- 
tnences. The next hest time is ahout .\u_s;usl, as thev will then have time \.o get 
well I'ooted in their new (piarters hefore free/in^ weather sets in. 

tlyhriJjznxif ana v*)tVi/ having 

The hxhridi.-iuL; o\ water lilies is governed h\ the same principle as the 
h\hndi/in!.; oi other pl.mts. The first thin-^ to ^\o is to select the iiarent plants. 

This should he done with care, having; in miuil what is desirecl in the pro^euy. 

Vo avoid disappointment make sure that the plant selected for the seed parent is 

a fertile and not a sterile one, so man\ oi the finest of the water lilies heinq- sterile. 

I hi\ inq selected the seed hearinq i^l.mt, an unopened tlower luul should ho 

choseti at least a day hefore its natural opening period, and the stamens removed. 

The tlower should then he covered w ith a tine i;au/e, thus ]ireventini;- pollen from 
other tlowers heinq- deposited on the stij^nia hv tlies or bees. .\ ilav earlier the 
piiUen bearing; plant should be selecteil. and a tlinver bud a little fvuiher ileveloped, 
or nearer to openinj;', ehosen aiul similarlv cmereil. The followinj;- nuM-niui;. or 
the first ila\ of the natural openin>; oi the seed heariui; tlower, the pollen should 
be iiathered. This is best done h\- cutting- the tlower, being careful \\o{ to we: 
it. holding it inverted cner a pajHM-. or glass, and giving it several sharp taps, 
thus preeipitating the pollen o\\ to the receptacle ow which it is to he carried to 
the tlower to be poUenated. Remove the gau/e and. with a camel's hair brush, 
distribute the pollen evenlv over the stigma. The gauze is then replaoeil atul, 

I 130] 



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CARDE>Jlhl(J 



within a week, if the cross has been successful, the seed j^od will hcj^^in to swell; 
if unsuccessful, the pod and stem will commence to decay. As the seed vessel 
increases in size, an examination should he made to see that the j^au/x- does not 
press too harr] r^n tlic jjod, otherwise the ^^'luze may burst aofl the seed be lost. 

A close watch should be kept on the seed vessel s<'> that it does not burst 
unexpectedly and some of the seed be lost throuj^h the decaying of the stem at 
the junction of the porl. A sure si^n that the pod is nearly ripe is that it will 
rise to the surface of the water a few days befr^re it bursts; whenever it apiK:ars 
there it can l>e picker] anrl plaeed in a pan of water, wliere it will eoinijlete the 
process of ripeninj^ and then bnr-t. 'J'he sf:erl should then be washed el'an and 
•dried or sown. 

When seed that will j^roduee plants true to tyj>e is flesired, the flowers 
should be covered in the same way as for hybridizinj:^, but without rernovinj^ the 
stamens. Some of the water lilies, especially the hybrids, will not bear seed; 
•others that do bear it very rarely come true from seed. Therefore, it is always 
the surest method, when the true type is wanted, to purchase plants or tubers 
anr] not seed. However, much interest will be taken in the pur-uit by many. 

In sowing the seed, the j^ods, when first gathered, shouM be placed in a 
vessel of water to ripen anrl burst; these vessels should be of a size that can be 
•easily handled when washing the seed. When the ]>(>'] bursts the seed will float 
•on the surface of the water. The seed has a fleshy covf:rinj^, j^iven it by nature 
for its proper distribution, the seed beinj^ carried by the wind and currents all 
over the pond. In twenty-four hours most of the seeds will have fallen to the 
bottom of the vessel. They should then be thoroughly cleansed by being rubbed 
through the hands, washed several times in clean water and, if of the tender 
varieties, be spread out to dry. When dry they should be stored in bottles or other 
Teceptacles until time to sow in Spring. 

Seed of the hardy varieties should be sown at once, or kept in a bottle of 
■water at a low temperature, as they srxjn lose their vitality. 

vvater Lilies that Jjeat Seed 

The following hardy water lilies will bear seed: Nymphsea retiiformis 

rtuberosa;, X. r. rosea, X. r. Richardsoni, X. Gladstoniana, X. Mexicana, X. 

ifilava, X. o<'lorata, X. o. Caroliniana, X. o, gigantea, X. o. minor, X, o. rosea, X. 

o. W. B. Shaw, X, o. Luciana, X. o. Mary exrjuisita, X. o. Jes.sieana, and X. 

pygm^a. 

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Tender Day Flowering: Nymphc-ea Capensis, N, coerulea, N. gracilis, N. 
Zanzibarensis, N. Z. rosea, N. Z. azurea, and N. elegans. Nymphgea Pennsyl- 
vania and N. pulcherrima frequently bear seed, but cannot be depended on. 

Night Flowering: Nymphaea Lotus, N. dentata, N. d. superba, N. d. mag- 
nifica, N. Bisseti, N. O'Marana, N. George Huster, N. Jubilee, N. rubra rosea, 
and N. Deaniana. 

The author has succeeded in securing and ripening a seed pod from 
Nymphaea Sturtevanti by crossing it with pollen from N. rubra rosea, although 
it is not a seed bearer under ordinary circumstances. 




TYPES OF HARDY WATER LILIES 



132] 



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WATER 

GARDENING 



CHAPTER XV 

FOR THE COMMERCIAL CUT FLOWER GROWER 

Ouitable ^onas. Culture and \^arieties 

WATER LILIES are now in great demand as cut flowers. In their sea- 
son they are extensively employed for the decoration of florists' 
windows, and also in funeral designs. The tender night flowering 
lilies open their flowers about 7 o'clock, in time for the decoration of the dinner 
table, and for this purpose they are unsurpassed. The flowers are large, of 
beautiful colors that show up well under artificial light. A low vase of these 
flowers, with their leaves of light green ranging to deep bronzy red, hanging 
over the edge of it and almost touching the tablecloth, forms a beautiful decora- 
tion indeed. The hardy water lilies are especially appropriate for the sick 
chamber, bringing with them, as they do, their exquisite colors and a sweet, de- 
lightful fragrance all their own. 

For the successful cultivation of these plants commercially, suitable ponds are 
necessary. A location should be selected that is comparatively level, or low and 
swampy, and near a water supply, preferably some brook or stream, and the pond 
dug, the material excavated being thrown up on the sides to form walks that will 
be high and dry. The pond should be large, and if in low, wet ground will re- 
quire no clay or concrete to make it watertight. A pipe for an overflow and 
draw off should be located at the end of the pond farthest from the inlet, where 
the w-ater can run off by gravity. The size of this pipe will depend on the dimen- 
sions of the pond ; but whatever the size of the pond, there will be nothing gained 
by using a small pipe, as when the pond is to be emptied the work should be done 
quickly and this can only be accomplished with a pipe of good size. For a pond 
of about one hundred by one hundred feet, a six-inch pipe will be sufficient ; this 
size can be taken as a guide for larger ponds. 

A pond of a depth of eighteen inches will be ample for the growth of all 
water lilies and for the protection of the roots from frost in Winter. At this depth 
the caretaker can wade in with hip rubber boots to attend to the cultivation of the 
plants and to cut the flowers. In localities where ice forms below the depth men- 
tioned the pond must be further excavated so that the roots of the water lilies will 

[I33l 



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GARDENING 



not be frozen. Some of the plants will not be injured by the freezing of the roots; 
but others, and some of them the best, will be killed outright if allowed to freeze. 

The pond excavated, the bottom should be laid out in beds of sufficient width 
and length to accommodate the number of plants of one variety it is desired to 
plant. To form these beds, boards of one inch thickness and twelve inches wide 
are sunk into the soil, on edge ; these are kept in position by posts, thus forming 
a solid bed as it were. These boards prevent the roots from running through the 
pond and getting intermixed with others ; this they would soon do, with but few 
exceptions. Between each bed a lane or walk, of from three to six feet, accord- 
ing to the growth of the plants, should be left. This lane, being clear of leaves, 
will allow a boat to get in and out among the water lilies without damaging the 
plants when cutting the flowers, and to otherwise attend to their wants. 

When the beds are ready, they should have a heavy dressing of from four tO' 
five inches of cow manure spread evenly over the surface, and dug in. The 
ground being low, good soil will be found below that which was taken out. The 
beds will then be ready to receive the plants, which can be set out from four vo- 
six feet apart, according to the growth of the variety. When planting is com- 
pleted enough water should be turned into the pond to cover the roots to a depth 
of from two to three inches, and no more water added until the plants have com- 
menced to grow. When the plants are sending out leaves more water can be 
added, and a few days afterward the pond can be entirely filled. If the pond was 
filled up to the overflow after planting many of the plants would die. 

The tender water lilies, with the exception of one or two, do not send out 
running shoots or roots, therefore it is not necessary to board up the beds where 
these are to be grown. All they require is that the manure be spread and dug in 
where they are to grow, and that they be planted from six to ten feet apart w'hen 
the proper time comes, which is in Alay or June, according to latitude. Where- 
tender water lilies are grown in the same pond with the hardy ones, the beds for 
the former should be prepared at the same time as those for the latter ; this will 
avoid drawing off the water when planting the tender ones, as they can be planted 
from a boat, or by wading into the pond. The tender water lilies will have been 
grown in the greenhouse tank, and therefore will have leaves on long stems which 
will rise to the surface of the water ; they also will be well established plants with 
plenty of roots, and will not be injured by being planted in deep water, as the 
hardy newly divided roots would be. 

The Nelumbiums should have a pond to themselves, as they are strong, ro- 

[134] 



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GARDENING 



bust plants, with long roots that often run from fifteen to twenty feet in a season ; 
on this account, unless the roots can be confined, they are unsuited for growth 
in a pond with other plants. They like a rich, deep, clay soil, to which has been 
added from four to six inches of cow manure, spread evenly over the soil and dug 
in. The best form of pond or tank for Nelumbiums is a long, narrow one, just 
wide enough to allow of the flowers being gathered from the walks on either side 




NELUMBIUM SPECIOSUM AT H. A. DREERS, RIVERTON, N. J. 

In tnis pona NelumDiums are cultivated on an extensive scale for the sale of the roots or rhizomes 

of the pond. This would give a width of from six to seven feet for the pond, and 
a walk of from three to four feet on each side, with every alternate walk wide 
enough to allow of the passage of a wagon with manure. The Nelumbiums do not 
require as much water above the soil as the water lilies, for they root very deep 
in the mud, far below the frost line ; therefore, a depth of twelve inches of water 
will be quite sufficient for them. 

After the first preparation of the soil as described for both water lilies and 

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Nelumbiums, all that will be required in after years will be to afford a heavy 
coating of cow manure and a generous sprinkling of bone meal, about one-half 
pound to the square yard, applied every Spring, and dug in or trampled in with 
the feet around the plants. 

The water lilies selected to produce cut flowers for the commercial grower 
should have the following essential points: They should give good sized frag- 
rant flowers, of good form and color ; the plants should be strong and of robust, 
healthy growth, free and continuous in flower. The following have been selected 
as approaching nearest to this standard of excellence ; some are better than their 
fellows in a few particulars, while in others they fall behind. If the varieties 
named are planted, there will be an abundant supply of flowers throughout the 
season, of good size and color. Preference should be given to the varieties 
marked with an asterisk (*). 

In white, *Nymphaea odorata gigantea, *Nymphaea Gladstoniana, *Nymphaea 
alba candidissima, * Nymphc-ea IVIarliacea albida, Nymphaea tuberosa Richard- 
soni. 

Pink : * Nymphsea Marliacea rosea, * Nymphaea odorata rosea, * Nymphaea 
Wm. B. Shaw, N3'mphaea tuberosa rubra. The last-named has not yet had an 
opportunity to prove its worth, as it is a new variety ; so far as observed, it is 
very shy in flowering. 

Pink to crimson shades: *N)Tnphrea gloriosa, *Nymphaea James Brydon, 
Nymphaea rubra punctata, * Nymphaea Andreana, Nymphaea lucida. 

Yellow : * Nymphaea Marliacea chromatella. 

Yellow, overlaid with purplish-red : Nymphaea Robinsoni. 

Nelumbiums : Album grandiflorum is the best white ; Nelumbium Pekinen- 
sis rubrum is the best deep pink; Nelumbium Pekinensis rubrum flore pleno the 
best double deep pink ; Nelumbium Shiroman is a fine double white ; Nelumbium 
speciosum is the beautiful delicate pink Lotus, commonly known as the Lotus of 
the Nile. 



[136] 



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WATER 

GARDENING 



CHAPTER XVI 



TENDER SUB-TROPICAL PLANTS FOR MARGINS AND 

BORDERS 



ttl^ 



y^^^W^f^TT 






HE environments of the water lily pond must be made at- 
tractive, and to obtain this result it is in keeping to have 
the borders and beds surrounding it filled with sub-trop- 
ical plants; especially are these features appropriate if 
the large tropical lilies are growing in the pond. If the 
pond has been protected from high winds, as recom- 
mended in a previous chapter, the sub-tropical plants 
should do well in nearly all sections of America, The 
plants being well sheltered the leaves will not be rent in 
shreds during every wind storm, which is the great drawback to the cultivation of 
the Musa and other large-leaved plants in the open ground ; otherwise, after each 
wind blow, they are left in a very unsightly condition and remain so until new 
leaves develop. 

Following we give a brief descriptive list of the most interesting and best 
adapted plants for the beautifying of the margins of the pond: 

Alocasia macrorhiza variegata has a green leaf mottled and blotched with 
white ; the leaves are sometimes all white. This plant should be set out where it 
will be shaded from direct sunlight, and at the end of the season be potted up and 
kept growing all Winter. 

Another plant that should have a similar position, is Calathea (Maranta) 
zebrina. It delights in a shady spot. The leaves are beautiful velvety green 
barred with purplish green ; the under side is a deep violet purple. Planted out, 
the leaves will grow to a length of three feet and a width of twelve inches. This 
plant should be potted up at the approach of frost and wintered in the green- 
house. 

Cannas are always in good taste placed in the sub-tropical border, and es- 
pecially those with large foliage. Canna Ehemanii, for this purpose, is one of 
the best ; it has extra large green leaves, three feet long by eighteen inches wide, 
the plant growing to a height of ten feet; the flowers are deep pink borne in 
drooping clusters. For a dark-leaved companion of Canna Ehemanii nothing is 
finer than Canna mussefolia. This plant grows ten feet in height, with leaves 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



two feet six inches by fifteen inches, of a dark green bronze color — a very strik- 
ing plant for massing. Among other useful varieties are Italia, growing six 
feet high; the flowers have a yellow ground with brilliant red center. Austria, 
six feet, with golden yellow flowers center spotted red. Mrs. Kate Gray with 
deep brilliant orange flowers ; the plant grows to a height of seven feet and has 
large foliage. The Cannas named are selected for their large leaves and tall 
growth ; all, with the exception of Canna musaefolia, bear large, beautiful flowers. 




CALATHEA ZEBRINA-Maranta zebrina 

Another class of plants with large tropical leaves are the Colocasias. Col- 
ocasia odorata grows to a height of ten feet, and has beautiful green leaves, 
measuring in well-grown plants two feet six inches by three feet six inches. The 
leaves point upward and not downward, as in Colocasia esculenta, the common 
Elephant's Ear. The latter will grow to a height of six feet and has dark green 
leaves two feet six inches by four feet. 

Cyperus Papyrus (Egyptian Paper Plant) is also a very interesting plant and 

[138] 



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GARDENING 



one that should be in every water garden, especially where the Lotus is grown. 
It attains a height of ten feet; on the end of the stalks is a tuft of long, thread- 
like leaves which gives the plant a very graceful and striking appearance. It 
thrives well planted in shallow water, or in the border, given the same treatment 
as the Canna. It is tender and should not be exposed to severe freezing; on the 
approach of frost the plant should be potted and wintered in the greenhouse, 
where it can be kept in a growing condition. It can be increased by division of 




SUB-TROPICAL PLANTS AT WATER' S EDGE 

Mu9a Ensete. Caladium esculentum, Colocasia arborea to right of latter 

the roots or by seed sown in Spring. It looks best when in clumps of several 
plants, set about a foot apart. See illustration, page 102. 

Cyperus alternifolius (Umbrella Plant) does well in like conditions to the 
preceding. The plant grows from one and one-half to three and one-half feet 
in height, having the same tufted head as Cyperus Papyrus, only the leaves in 
alternifolius are much wider, being from one-quarter to one-half inch in width. 
Tliis and its two varieties, Cyperus alternifolius gracilis, with finer leaves; and 

[139] 



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GARDENING 



Cyperus alternifolius variegata, with beautiful variegated stems and leaves, 
should be wintered in the greenhouse. 

Fatsia papyrifera (sometimes named Aralia papyrifera) grows from five to 
seven feet high; the leaves are cordate, five to seven lobed, about one foot in 
length and the same in width. This is the plant from which the rice paper is 
manufactured. It is hardy in sheltered locations around Washington, D. C, send- 
ing up shoots from the roots. Farther north the plants should be lifted after 
the first touch of frost and wintered in a cool greenhouse. 




CYPERUS ALTERNIFOLIUS 

The Umbrella Plant 

Monstera deliciosa is a very interesting plant, with large leaves. It bears 
an edible fruit which has a taste resembling that between a banana and a pine- 
apple. The fruit is from six to eight inches long and in form resembles a pine 
cone. The leaves are from one to two feet six inches in length, fifteen to 
eighteen inches wide, are perforated and the margins deeply cut. This plant suc- 

[140] 



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GARDENING 



ceeds well in the border and frequently bears fruit. At the approach of frost the 
plant should be potted and brought into the greenhouse or dwelling. It makes a 
fine house plant for Winter decoration. 

Musa Ensete, the Abyssinian banana, is one of the best tropical plants to use 
for this purpose. It is a noble subject, easily raised from seed, which should be 
sown in the greenhouse or hotbed. The young plants grow rapidly, and within 
three years will attain a height of ten feet, with leaves eight feet in length and two 
feet wide. 

Musa sapientum is another banana that is very interesting; it o-rows to a 




FATSIA PAPYRIFERA-Aralia cord.U 
Musa rubrum in the upper left 

height of twelve feet, the old plants flowering and bearing fruit which, however, 
owing to our short Summers, will not reach maturity in the Northern States, 

Musa Martini is similar to the preceding; the veins and stems are generally 
tinted red, while the leaves are thick and not easily broken by the wind. 

[141] 



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GARDENING 



Musa Dacca is smaller growing and can, therefore, be planted toward the 
edge of the border. 

Musa vittata has green leaves, beautifully striped and blotched with white; 
this is one of the finest of variegated plants. 

Musa zebrina has dark green leaves blotched and striped with purplish 
bronze. 

Nicotiana tomentosa, or as it is better known to gardeners, Nicotiana colossea, 
is well described by its more popular name. Colossal it certainly is, growing to 
a height of nine feet, with leaves two feet six inches by fifteen inches wide, fur- 
nished to the ground. It forms a picture in itself. This tobacco is a perennial. 




MUSA ENSETE 

The Abyssinian Banana 

flowering the second year in the North ; if the plant is wintered in the greenhouse 
it can be raised from cuttings of soft unripened wood taken in the Fall ; or from 
seed sown in the greenhouse or hotbed in the Spring. 

[142] 



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Ricinus Zanzibarensis (Castor Oil Plant), with its immense leaves three feet 
from point to point, and the plant fifteen feet in height, is a splendid subject for 
the back row of the border where it will tower above the lower plants in front. 
It should be raised from seed sown in Spring in a greenhouse or hotbed. 

Strelitzia Augusta does well in the border and has a very tropical appearance. 
It grows to a height of fifteen feet. The leaves are two to three feet in length, 
borne on petioles four feet long. The plant has to be wintered in the greenhouse. 

Where shade can be provided, the Australian Tree Fern, Alsophila Australis, 
thrives very well in the sub-tropical border. It makes a quick growth, throwing 
out its large, beautiful fronds rapidly. These measure seven feet from stem to 
point of frond and four feet across. This plant should be potted up at the ap- 
proach of frost and wintered in the greenhouse. 

Solanum Warscewiczii, growing to a height of ten feet, with large deeply 
lobed leaves eighteen inches across, forms a very striking plant. It is easily raised 
from seed which should be sown in Spring. 

Solanum robustum grows four feet high ; the leaves are not as large nor so 
deeply lobed as those of the last mentioned. It forms a nice compact plant. Both 
of the Solanums can be raised from seed sown in Spring or from cuttings taken in 
the Fall. 

Xanthosoma sagittaefolium is also a very desirable plant ; the leaves are over 
two feet across and about three feet in length, with a beautiful metallic luster on 
the upper surface, which makes it a very attractive plant. 

Another Xanthosoma very similar to the preceding is Xanthosoma vio- 
laceum. This variety lacks the luster on the surface of the leaf possessed by 
Xanthosoma sagittaefolium, but has very beautiful violet colored stems. 

All of the plants named, unless where noted, should be taken up after frost 
has injured the leaves, making them unsightly, the leaves cut ofif and the plants 
put into as small pots as possible and carried through the Winter in a cool green- 
house. If a greenhouse be not available they can be lifted and stood in a corner 
of a frost-proof cellar, and the roots covered with a layer of sand which should 
be kept moist but not too wet; Cannas can be lifted and carried over in this 
manner. 



143] 



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GARDENING 



CHAPTER XVII 

HARDY PERENNIALS FOR MARGIN AND BORDER 

PLANTING 




I 



T will add very much to the beauty of the 
natural or semi-natural pond or stream 
to plant the edges with some of the hardy 
subjects hereinafter described. The edge of the 
pond can be planted with a selection of hardy 
herbaceous plants flowering at different periods, 
thus providing an attraction from early Spring 
to late Fall. These plants should be set out in colonies, several of one variety 
together, wherever space is at command to allow of this being done. They can 
be planted in front of the hardy trees and shrubs mentioned in another chapter. 
Many of them, such as Acorus, Typha, Juncus, Peltandra, the Saggitarias and 
the Pontederia, can be placed on the edge of the bank and allowed to extend 
out into the pond in the shallow water. All of the plants named will grow well 
on the bank or in the water. In all such plantings it is well to bear in mind the 
fact that the water garden is the principal object, and the other plants only a 
setting for it ; therefore, all the space at the edge should not be planted, but open 
spots reserved where one can get right down to the water to see the lilies. 
The plants named have either beautiful flowers, attractive foliage, or striking 
habit of growth to recommend them, and are, therefore, especially desirable, 
although they form but a partial enumeration of a very long list of hardy plants 
that would succeed equally as well. It would be an extensive pond indeed where 
all of the plants available could be employed in the borders surrounding it ; the 
list given is to serve merely as a guide to the prospective purchaser who may 
select from it those that best serve the purpose in view. 

Acorus calamus (Sweet Flag) grows to a height of from two to three feet; 
it has lance-shaped leaves. All parts of the plant have a strong aromatic acrid 
taste and the rhizome is much used in medicine and by perfumers. 

Acorus calamus variegatus (A. Japonica variegata) has, in the young state, 
leaves striped deep yellow, which fade to a paler color as they become older. 

[144] 



HEDGE 




BORDER OF SHRL 



WALK 



BORDER OF FLOWERS AND SHRUBS 



WATER 



WALK 



WATER 




BORDER OF FLOWERS AND SHRUBS 



WALK 



BORDER OF SHRUI 



HEDGE 

PLAN FOR A FOF 

Slio'wing an arrangement of pools and walks witk plant Dorders that would blend in tne rormatic 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



HEDGE 




HEDGE 



^ATER GARDEN 

•tistic and beautiful Water Garden, to te located on a troad terrace or in the Sunken Garden 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



Acorns gramineus grows to a height of from eight to twelve inches, forming 
a round grassy tuft. 

Acorus gramineus variegatus is a beautiful variegated plant. The leaves are 
narrow, grasslike and striped white. All of the Acorus will thrive equally well 
planted in moist soil or in shallow water. They are propagated by division of 
the root in Spring or Fall. 




ACORUS CALAMUS VARIEGATUS 

Variegated Sweet Flag 

Acanthus mollis latifolius has leaves one foot wide by two feet lonf. It 
grows to a height of from three to four feet and is a fine hardy plant for sub- 
tropical efifect. It should be planted in well drained soil and well mulched to pro- 
tect it in Winter from frost. It is propagated by division in Spring and Fall. 

Anemone rivularis produces white flowers with a purple disk; it attains a 
height of from eighteen to twenty inches and delights in a moist situation. Prop- 
agation is effected by division of the crowns, or root cuttings, also by seed sown 
as soon as ripe, or in Spring. 

[145] 



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GARDENING 



Anagallis tenella is a plant of trailing habit, rarely reaching a height of more 
than six inches. The flowers are bright pink, the plants blooming freely for sev- 
eral months in Summer. It is propagated by division or from cuttings of the 
young shoots. 

Aster Novse-Anglise reaches a height of from four to five feet ; it bears bluish 
purple flowers with yellow centers, and blooms through September and October. 

Aster Novae Anglise alba reaches a height of four feet ; its flowers are white. 

Aster Novas-Anglise rosea grows four feet high, and has bright rose colored 
flowers. 

Aster Novas Angliae rubra grows four feet high, bearing deep rose colored 
flowers. 

All these Asters delight in deep moist soil, exposed to full sunshine. The 
plants are very efifective in the late Fall months when covered with their showy 
attractive flowers. They can be grown from seed sown in Spring or by division 
of the roots in Spring or Fall. 

Astilbe rivularis (Spiraea) has foliage very similar to Spirasa Aruncus. The 
flowers are whitish, tinted red. The plant bears many flowered panicles and 
grows to a height of from three to four feet in wet soil. It blooms during July 
and August and is propagated by division of the crowns. 

Astilbe rubra has deep pink flowers. 

Astrantia carniolica produces beautiful while flowers; the plant grows to a 
height of twelve inches. 

Astrantia helleborifolia gives light pink flowers : it grows to a height of two 
feet. 

Astrantia major has rosy pink flowers and grows to a height of from eighteen 
inches to two feet. 

The Astrantias like plenty of moisture and do well in wet soil. They are 
propagated by division of the rooi in Fall or Spring. 

Bocconia cordata grows to a height of from five to eight feet ; the leaves are 
large, heart shaped, deeply lobed, silvery white underneath. The plant bears a 
large panicle of yellowish white flowers and is an excellent subject for the banks 
and borders of the pond. Being perfectly hardy and growing rapidly from 
suckers it soon forms a beautiful specimen. It likes a good deep soil that is well 
drained and therefore should not be planted where the soil is marshy. It is in- 
creased by division of the roots, from suckers, and from seed sown as soon as 
ripe or in the Spring. 

[146] 



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GARDENING 



Buphthalmuiii speciosuni (Telekia 
speciosa) is a perennial plant, with 
laro^e showy yellow flowers, g-rowing 
to a height of from three to four 
feet. It has large, cordate coarse ser- 
rate leaves. Propagation is by divi- 
sion in Fall or Spring. 

Ilutonius nmbellatus ( Mowcring 
Kush) bears rose colored flowers. 
The leaves resemble those of the Iris, 
and are from two to three feet in 
length. It should be planted at the 
margin of the pond or in shallow 
water, it is i)r()pagate(l by division. 
Caltha leptosepala gives pure white 
flowers ; it grows to a height of from 
twelve to fifteen inches, blooming 
trom Spring till June. 

Caltha ])alustris (Marsh Marigold) 
reaches a height of from one to two 
feet, and bears bright yellow flowers 
half an incli across. 

Caltha palustris monstrosa plena 
has larger flowers than the type ; they 
are double. 

The Calthas thrive best in a wet lo- 
cation or in a moist border. They 
are propagated by division of the 
roots early in Spring or after flower- 
ing. 

Cardamine pratensis flore pleno 
grows luxuriantly in wet soil, flowering freely during the Spring months. The 
flower stalks reach a height of from fifteen to twenty inches. The color of the 
flowers is light blue with a touch of deep purple. Increased by division. 

[M7l 




BOCCONIA CORDATA 

Hardy Border Plant 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



Chelone glabra reaches a height of from one to two feet ; the flowers are 
white being often tinted rose. 

Chelone Lyoni grows about two feet high and bears rosy purple flowers. 

Chelone obliqua (Turtle's Head) grows to a height of from one to two feet. 
The flowers are deep rose borne in close terminal spikes. 

The Chelones like wet soil and do not thrive in dry locations ; they flower 
freely and keep on blooming until late Summer. They are increased by dividing 
the plants in Fall, by seed, and by cuttings of the young wood. 




t^ 



"^♦j*--^. . 

^^"^■^s^ 
.-••.,^--_ 



^ 



CLEMATIS PANICULATA 

The flowers are borne in the (greatest profusion, forming a dense white mass of fraj^rant blossoms 

Clematis paniculata is a splendid vine to run over a rock, stump, or to ramble 
over a rustic bridge or tree. It is the best of the small flowered Clematises, often 
growing, when well established, fifteen feet in a single season. The flowers arc 
borne in the greatest profusion forming a dense white mass of fragrant blossoms. 
It blooms in August, remaining in good condition for several weeks. Propagation 
is effected by seed sown outdoors in Fall when ripe, or in a cool greenhouse or 
frame. 

Commelina \'irginica is a beautiful native plant, excellent for naturalizing 
purposes. The flowers are pale sky blue in color. It should be planted in damp, 
rich soil, and is propagated by seed or cuttings. 

Dicentra spectabilis, the Bleeding Heart of the old-fashioned garden, is a 
plan: that should always be included. It thrives well in a light rich soil, moist 

[148] 



THE BOOK OP 

WATER 

GARDENING 



but not wet, and especially prefers a partially shaded location. The plant reaches 
a height of from one to two feet. The flowers are borne in a .G:raccful raceme, are 
rosy crimson in color, about one inch long, heart shaped, appearing in Spring. 
This is one of the best hardy perennial plants in cultivation. It is propagated by 
division, or by cutting the roots into small pieces and inserting them in sandy soil. 
Digitalis purpurea, the old-fashioned English Foxglove, should have a posi- 
tion in the hardy border. It succeeds best in a light rich moist soil and grows 
from two feet six inches to four feet in height. The color of the flowers ranges 
from white to purple. 



DICENTRA SPECTABILIS 

The Bleeding Heart of the old-fashioned garden 

Digitalis purpurea gloxiniseflora is a stronger, more robust plant than the 
type; the flower spike is larger, the flowers, which are prominently spotted, open- 
ing wider. It can be increased by division and by seed sown in the Fall or Spring, 
in a sheltered location. 

Dipsacus sylvestris grows to a height of from five to six feet. It is a bien- 
nial plant and bears pale lilac flower heads. 

Dipsacus Fullonum is similar to the preceding, with the exception that the 
floral scales are hooked. It is raised from seed. 

[149] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



Fervila communis is a plant with very finely divided leaves ; it grows to a 
height of from eight to twelve feet. The flowers are yellow, appearing in um- 
bels of forty to fifty small blossoms. It has beautiful Fern like foliage and 
thrives well in ordinary soil, or at the water's edge. It is easily raised from seed. 

Funkia subcordata also thrives well in moist soil near the margin of the pond. 
The leaves are from six to nine inches long, broadly cordate-ovate. The flowers 
are pure white, from four to six inches in length, and from three to five inches 
broad, bell shaped ; borne in spikes carrying from nine to fifteen flowers, the 
spike one and one-half to two feet high. They bloom in July and August. 




DIGITALIS PURPUREA 

The Foxglove. A favorite plant for the hardy border 

Funkia Fortunei bears pale lilac flowers and grows to a height of from 
eighteen inches to two feet. It is propagated by division of the crowns in 
Spring. 

There is a fine variegated one, Funkia ovata marginata, the leaves of which 
have a broad white margin. The flowers are bluish lilac. 

Gunnera manicata has gigantic leaves from five to ten feet across, on 
long prickly petioles. The leaves are orbicular, lobed and crenate; the flowers 
are green on a dense spike three to four feet tall. 

[150] 



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WATER 

GARDENING 



Gunnera scabra is smaller than the preceding, with leaves four to five feet in 
diameter on strong prickly petioles three to six feet in length. 

The Gunneras thrive best in moist soil and will stand the Winters in the 
Northern States if protected with leaves or straw. They are noble plants when 
once established, but will not thrive in dry soil. They are propagated by division 
of the roots. 

Helenium autumnale produces flowers ranging in color from yellow to deep 
orange with a yellow disk. It grows to a height of from three to six feet, flower- 
ing from July to October. 

Helenium autumnale superbum has nuich larger flowers than the type and 
grows from four to six feet high. The flowers are deep golden yellow. 

Helenium autumnale var. pumilum flowers profusely from July until October, 
reaching a height of eighteen inches. 




■^ 

-^ 



■i'f-'iif 









r'F 



GUNNERA SCABRA 

A noble plant when once established 



[151 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



Helenium grandicephalum striatum is of strong robust habit, growing to a 
height of three feet. The flowers measure one and one-half inches across and 
are of a deep orange color striped and blotched with crimson. Its blooming 
period is from July to August. 

The Heleniums are quite at home in the moist soil surrounding the pond, and 
are very showy when in flower. They are propagated by division or seed. 

Helianthus giganteus (Indian Potato) grows to a height of from four to 
twelve feet. The lanceolate leaves are from three to seven inches long; flowers 
pale yellow, one and one-half to three inches in diameter. This plant is quite 
at home in wet soil. 

Hemerocallis flava gives beautiful, single, lemon yellow flowers, which grow 
on stems of a height of from two to three feet. The leaves are narrow, from 
two to two and one-half feet in length. 

Hemerocallis fulva has single orange colored flowers ; it blooms in June and 
July, attaining a height of from three to four feet. 

Hemerocallis fulva Kwanso gives double orange colored flowers, remaining 
in bloom for a longer period than Hemerocallis fulva. It grows to a height of 
three feet. 

Hemerocallis fulva variegata has a white stripe down the center of tlie 
leaves. 

All the Hemerocallis should be planted where they can be afforded plenty of 
water. They are found growing wild along the edges of streams and in wet 
places. Propagation is eft'ected by division of the roots. 

Heracleum villosum (H. giganteum) reaches a height of from eight to 
twelve feet. It has pinnate leaves and greenish white flowers borne in dense 
umbels ; flowering in August and September. This is a plant well adapted for 
use at the pond or in the surrounding border. It is increased by division or seed. 

Hibiscus Crimson Eye is a clear white flower, with a crimson eye. 

Hibiscus moscheutos (Rose Mallow) grows from three to four feet high and 
bears flowers four to six inches across, of a light rose color, in August and Sep- 
tember. 

Hibiscus moscheutos albus is similar to the preceding, except in the color of 
the flower which is white with a purple eye. 

Hibiscus militaris grows from three to four feet high. The flowers measure 
from three to five inches across, ranging in color from white to pale rose with a 
purple eye. 

[152] 



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WATER 

GART>ENING 



The Hibiscus named delight in wet soil and are very effective with their 
large bright flowers and strong growth. They are easily raised from seed sown 
in early Spring. 

Iris aurea produces yellow flowers, on from three to three and one-half 
foot stems, in July. 

Iris Caroliniana has leaves of from two to three feet in length; the flowers 
are lilac, variegated with purple and brown. 

Iris Laevigata (Kaempferi) delights in rich wet soil, where the plants will grow 
to a height of four and one-half feet. When they flower, in Jvme and July, there 
is nothing in hardy plants that can rival them in the gorgeous colors of the blos- 
soms which frequently measure twelve inches across. They have both double 
and single flowers, the colors of which range from white, lilac and crimson pur- 
ple to the deepest purple imaginable. Some have variegated or spotted flowers. 
All of the blossoms have a pure yellow center. The plants grow well at the edge 
of the water, and thrive equally well when planted in shallow water. They ap- 
pear to best advantage when planted in large groups instead of singly. Unfor- 
tunately the names of this class of Iris are badly confused, therefore, a list of 




HEMEROCALLIS FULVA 

[153] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENINg 



varieties is of very little benefit to intending purchasers. It is best to visit some 
nursery when the plants are in flower and then select the varieties desired. Those 
in the subjoined list are given their Japanese appellations and are, therefore, 
more likely to be obtained true to name. 

Data-Dogue, flowers violet purple. Fugi Jose, white marbled violet blue. 
Hana-aoi, large flower, ultra-marine blue. Iso-no-nami, silvery white, veined 
violet. Kagaribi. white, traced and marbled with ultramarine blue. Kimino- 




IRIS LAEVIGATA-Kaempferi 
TKe plants are grooving in lo'w. moist ground 

megumi, white veined ultramarine blue ; standards light blue, fringed with white. 
Koki-no-ero, deep purple, large fine flower. Hana-no-nishiki, ground color grey- 
ish white spotted violet purple. Kasagana, white sufifused with purple. Kumo- 
obi, light violet. Mana-dsuru, white ; late flowering. Oniga-shima, royal purple 
with lighter veins. O-torige, light violet blue, white veins. Renjo-no-toma, 
pale lilac suffused violet. Shippo, light lilac veined purple. Senjo-no-hara, a 
very fine variety, mottled with white and purple. Shishi-odori, rich deep purple. 

[154] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



Shi-un-ryo, light violet veined with deep violet. Schuchuikwa, crimson purple 
with white veins. Tora-odori, pure white with faint tracing of violet. Taihei- 
raku, rich crimson purple. Uchiu, bright purple with crimson sheen ; violet veins ; 
Waku-hotei, pure white with purple veins. Yomo-no-umi, fine white. 

Iris Monniere gives lemon yellow flowers and reaches a height of from three 
to three and one-half feet. 

Iris orientalis bears white and yellow flowers and grows to a height of from 
three to four feet. 

Iris pseud-acorus has yellow flowers, the outer segments being from two 
to two and one-half inches in length. The plants grow to a height of from two 
to three feet forming fine large clumps. They flower in May and June. 

Iris pseud-acorus pallida gives pale yellow flowers. 

Iris pseud-acorus variegata has leaves striped with creamy white. 

Iris versicolor grows from one and one-half to two feet high, the limb being 
violet blue; there is a yellow variegation on the claw and veined with jiurple. 

These Irises delight in wet soil, where they will soon make fine clumps that 
will flower profusely every year. 

None of the German Irises likes wet soil, but if a bank or some well drained 
spot can be had then a generous planting of this class should be carried out. All 
have very attractive flowers, some of them rivaling the Orchids in the wonderful 
gradations of the colors. Some of the best of this class, including hybrids, are : 
Bridesmaid, standards pale lavender, falls white, edged lavender ; Mad. Chereau, 
white, margined blue ; Comte de St. Clair, white and deep violet ; Princess of 
Wales, white; flavescens, pale yellow; atropurpurea. dark purple; Florentina, 
white, fading to pale grey, sweet scented ; Pallida Dalmatica, lavender, sweet 
scented, finest of the German Iris; Queen of May, rosy lilac; venusta, rosy 
lavender. 

Juncus efifusus spiralis has curiously twisted stems in the form of a cork- 
screw. 

Juncus efifusus vittatus has the foliage barred with bands of yellow. 

The Juncus, or Rush, is very useful for planting in shallow water or at the 
edge of the pond. The plants are increased by division of the root. 

Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Plower) grows from two to four feet high. 
The flowers are bright, intense cardinal red, borne on a long spike. This is one 
of the finest of our native plants and should be largely used around the pond. It 
delights in wet soil, flowering from July to September. 

[155] 



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GARDENING 



Lobelia fulgens also throws a fine brilliant scarlet flower, much like that of 
Lobelia cardinalis, blooming from four to five weeks earlier than the latter. All 
are propagated by seed or division. 

Lobelia syphilitica grows to a height of from two to three feet; the flowers 
range in color from blue to purple. 

Lobelia syphilitica alba has flowers nearly white. 

Lysimachia clethroides grows from two to three feet high. The flowers are 
white borne on long spikes. It blooms from July to September, growing splen- 



Jl 




^^^j^^^^^SkHn L m-A. |^^H|. 






^.^ 


^wm 





MERTENSIA VIRGINICA 

The Virginian Cowslip or Blue Bell 

didly in wet places. Propagation is effected by division of the root in Spring or 
Fall. 

Malva Alcea reaches a height of from two to four feet. The flowers are pale 
rosy purple two inches across. The leaves are palmate, light green and deeply 
incised. This plant makes a fine clump when well established, growing as much 
in diameter as it does in height. 

[156] 



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Malva moschata (Musk Mallow) produces rose colored flowers two inches 
across in terminal and axillary clusters. The lower leaves are kidney shaped, 
the upper ones form five deeply pinnatifid segments. It grows to a height of 
from two to two and one-half feet. 

All the Malvas thrive in a moist soil and are propagated hy seed or cuttings. 

Menyanthes trifoliata ( Buckbean ) produces flowers which are white inside, 
the outside being reddish colored and the anthers purplish. This plant grows 
well in shallow water or in moist soil. It is propagated by division of the root. 

Mertensia Virginica ( \"irginian Cowslip or Blue Bell) grows from one to 




PELTANDRA UNDULATA- Water Arum 

two feet in height, producing drooping clusters of blue bell flowers. The buds on 
first opening are tinted pink changing to clear blue ; the flowers are one inch in 
length, borne in graceful, drooping terminal clusters. It blooms from April to 
May and is one of the most charming of hardy plants, delighting in deep rich, 
moist soil. When once planted it should be disturbed as little as possible. 

Mertensia Sibirica comes into flower a little later than the preceding, the 
flowers being a lighter blue. The plant grows from one to two feet high. It is 
propagated by division, or by seed sown as soon as ripe. 

Molopospermum cicutarium is a handsome Fern like perennial, growing to a 

[157] 



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height of from three to five feet. Its yellowish white flowers are produced in 
umbels, the terminal umbel being very much larger than the lateral. It grows 
well in deep rich soil where it can be well supplied with water. Propagation is 
by division, or seed can be sown as soon as ripe. 

Myosotis palustris (true Forget-Me-Not) has decumbent stems from six to 
eighteen inches long. Its blossoms are borne in a loose flowered raceme, being 
bright blue with a yellow eye and appearing in Alay and June. 

Myosotis palustris semperflorens is a dwarfer plant than the last mentioned, 
flowering nearly all Summer. 




PONTEDERIA CORDATA 

Pickerel Weed 



The Forget-Me-Nots should be planted in a moist, shady location. They are 
easily propagated from seed, cuttings, or by division of the plants in the Spring. 

Peltandra undulata (Water Arumj has narrow sagittate leaves, glossy 
green ; the spathe is from four to eight inches long. 

Peltandra alba has broader leaves than the preceding; the flower spathe is 
white. 

The Water Arums are attractive plants for the edge of the pond, their dark 
glossy green sagittate leaves being very effective. They are propagated by 
separating the plants, and from seed. 

[158] 



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Polygala lutea ( Orange Milkwort) is a native plant found wild in many of the 
Eastern States. It is quite at home in moist soil and should never be allowed to 
suffer from dryness. The flowers are orange yellow in color, appearing from 
June to October. The plant reaches a height of from six to twelve inches, and 
is propagated from seed sown in Fall or Spring. 

Pontederia cordata (Pickerel Weed) is one of the handsomest of aquatic 
plants for shallow water. It is found growing wild in almost every natural pond, 
or pool, all over the Eastern States, and might with justice be termed a weed; 



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PYRETHRUM ULIGINOSUM-G{ant Ox-eye Daisy 
One of the noblest of herbaceous plants 

still it is worthy of a place in any pond devoted to the growth of aquatic plants, 
being very attractive when in bloom. It is a strong growing perennial, standing 
in clumps and sending up strong stems of from two to three feet in height. The 
flowers are light blue. Propagation is eft'ected by division of the tufts. 

Pyrethrum uliginosum (Giant Ox-eye Daisy) is well adapted for the moist 
border or margin. It is a bold, strong growing handsome species. The flowers 
have white rays with a yellow disk and measure from two to three inches across, 
being borne on slender stalks. The plant grows to a height of from four to five 
feet. Its flowering period is from July to September. Propagation is by division. 

[159] 



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This is one of the noblest of herbaceous plants ; the blooms are excellent for cut 
flowers. 

Rheum officinale (Rhubarb) is a strong, robust plant. The leaves are from 
eighteen inches to three feet across, with three to seven lobes extending to 
nearly one-half of the leaf. The flower stem grows to a height of from three to 
five feet and bears a large panicle of greenish white blossoms. 

Rheum Emodi is another fine foliage plant, growing to a height of five feet 
with beautiful large leaves having prominent red veins. 

The Rheums like a well drained soil where they will never suffer from lack 
of moisture; they are well adapted for the border or "margin. The crowns 
should be well protected by a covering of leaves, or brush, in Winter. Propa- 
gation is by division, or seed. 

Rhexia Virginica (Meadow Beauty) is another moisture loving, low, tuber- 
ous-rooted plant, growing from six to twelve inches high, and flowering from 
July to September. The flowers are bright rosy purple with golden anthers. 

Rhexia lutea has yellow flowers. 

Rhexia Mariana gives reddish purple flowers, which open a little earlier than 
those of Rhexia Virginica. All delight in wet, spongy soil, and are increased by 
division of the roots. 

Rudbeckia laciniata and its better known offspring, Rudl^eckia laciniata flora 
plena (Golden Glow) are fine plants for the border surrounding the pond. They 
grow to a height of from five to six feet bearing golden yellow flowers which ap- 
pear from July to September. Rudbeckia Golden Glow is one of the best hardy 
plants for the border. 

Rudbeckia nitida (Autumn Glory) produces large pale yellow flowers open- 
ing through August and September. The plant grows to a height of five feet. 

These Rudbeckias must have plenty of water to bring them to perfection, 
and should be replanted at least every three years. Owing to the rapid spread of 
the crown they soon become exhausted if not renewed. They are easily raised 
from division of the root either in Spring or Fall. 

Sagittaria sagittaefolia (Arrowhead) is a perennial plant much used for the 
edge of ponds. It succeeds well planted in shallow water or at the edge in wet 
soil. The leaves are broad, sagittate, from two to eight inches in length. The 
flower stems are erect, from six to eight inches long, and are carried a little above 
the leaves. The flowers are white, from half an inch to one inch across. 

Sagittaria latifolia (variabilis) is variable as to height, growing from a few 

[i6o] 



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GARDENING 



inches up to three or four feet. The leaves are generally broad, sagittate with 
long basal lobes ; the flowers are white, one inch across. 

Sagittaria Japonica flora plena is very similar to the preceding, bearing large 
spikes of pure white, double flowers. 

Sagittaria Montevidensis (Giant Arrowhead) is a strong robust plant, at- 
taining a height of from four to five feet. The leaves are fifteen inches in length, 
the flower heads being carried on long stems well above the foliage. The roots of 
this variety should be planted below the reach of frost or it will be killed outright. 
It is increased by division. 

Sabbatia chlorides grows from one to two feet high and is a biennial. The 
flowers are white, two inches across. It thrives in wet, boggy soil and is raised 
from seed. 

Sanguisorba Canadensis bears greenish white flower heads from two to six 
inches in length. The plant grows to a height of from five to six feet and well 
deserves a place in the border. 

Saxifraga peltata is a bold, strong growing plant, perfectly at home in moist 
locations. The leaves are from six to eight inches in diameter ; the flowers are 
whitish pink, borne on stalks from one to two feet high. The plant blooms in the 




SPIRAEA ARUNCUS 

Goats Beard Spiraea. Bears large, ^vhite, gracefully drooping plumes 



[i6i 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



Spring months, and succeeds best in deep rich, moist soil. Propagation is effected 
by seed or division. 

Scirpus lacustris grows to a height of from three to eight feet, in low. wet 
marshy places, or in shallow water. 

Scirpus lacustris zebrina, commonly called the Porcupine Plant from the 
markings of the leaves, is of strong, robust, upright growth, reaching a height 
of from three to four feet. The leaves are variegated with alternate bands of 
white, the bands being almost half an inch wide. This is a very effective subject, 




THALIA DEALBATA 

One of the finest subjects for waterside planting. Broad, canna-like, glaucous leaves, with panicles of purplish flowers. 
The plant is hardy as far north as Philadelphia in sheltered locations 

planted in shallow water or at the edge of the pond. It is propagated by division. 
Spiraea Aruncus (Goat's Beard Spiraea) is a perennial plant growing from 
three to five feet high, with beautiful divided leaves. It bears large white, grace- 
fully drooping plumes, blooming from June to July. 

[162] 



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Spiraea gigantea reaches a height of from five to six feet. The leaves 
are palmate. The flower spike is extra large, white, the flowering period being 
from July to September. 

Spiraea Kneiffi has finely divided leaves, and produces large panicles of sil- 
very white flowers in June ; it grows from three to four feet in height. 

The Spiraeas named delight in deep, rich, moist soil, and succeed well planted 
at the water's edge. They are propagated by division of the roots. 

Thalia dealbata is a plant with glaucous foliage somewhat like that of the 
Canna. It grows to a height of from three to five feet. The leaves are from six 
to nine inches in length, on i)ctioles of from one to four feet. The flower panicle 
is borne on stems from three to five feet high, having man}- very small ])urple 
flowers. The plant blooms from June to September. 

Thalia divaricata grows to a height of from five to ten feet, and is larger in 
all its parts than Thalia dealbata. The flowers are pur])k'. 

The Thalias are very interesting ])lants, succeeding best planted in shallow 
water or wet soil. They also do well accorded the same treatment as Cannas. 
They have proved perfectly hardy, without any jjrotection, at Washington, D. C, 
for a number of years. The plants are increased ])y division or seed. 

Trilliums delight in moist, deep rich soil. The\- should lie given a shadv 
position. The best one for the margin of the ])ond is Trillium grandiflorum, 
which grows to a height of from one to two feet. The leaves are broad-ovate, 
from three to five inches long. The flowers are three-petaled, pure white on first 
opening changing to rose pink, and measure two inches across. This Trillium is 
a beautiful plant, of free growth in a shady position, but will not grow where it 
is exposed to the full sun. It is increased by the division of the root, or seed. 

Trollius Europa?us (Globe Flower) is a hardy perennial plant bearing pale 
yellow flowers from one to one and one-half inches in diameter. It reaches a 
height of from one to two feet. 

Trollius Europseus Loddigesii has deep yellow flowers, but otherwise is sim- 
ilar to the type. 

Trollius thrives best in deep wet soil. They are handsome erect growing 
plants, of dense habit, flowering from May to July, and are propagated by division 
or seeds. 

Typha latifolia (Cat-tail) grows from four to eight feet high, flowering on 
a close, round, dark brownish black spike from four to nine inches in length. 

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Typha angustifolia is more slender in leaf and flower spike than Typha lati- 
folia and is the more gracefnl of the two, growing from five to ten feet high. 

The Typhas are hardy perennial water or hog plants; a clnmp of them, es- 
peeially when in llower. forms a very attractive object in the water garden. They 
are increased by division and seed. 




TYPHA LATIFOLIA 
Cat-Tail 



164] 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



CHAPTER XVIII 

NATIVE ORCHIDS, SARRACENIAS AND OTHER BOG 

PLANTS 

THE native Orchids generally delight in a shady position. Some like 
the soil well drained, while others are bog plants and delight in an 
abundant sui)i)ly of moisture. 

Arethusa bulbosa is a beau'.iful native Orchid, found wild in wet, boggy 
swamps in North Carolina. The flowers are bright rosy pink, appearing in May 
and June. It should be planted in a shady corner where it will have an abundance 
of water. It is propagated by the separation of the bulbs. 

Calopogon puchellus is a hardy native Orchid found in wet, boggy places. 
The flowers are one inch in diameter, pink in color, bearded with white, yellow, 
and purple hairs. The flowers come in clusters of from two to six. This Orchid 
should be planted in a place where it will have full exjjosure to the sun. 

Calypso borealis is a pretty native (Jrchid with rosy pink flowers; the lip is 
white with brown spots. This plant does best in light, rich, wet soil, and should 
be planted in a cool shady spot. 

Cypripedium acaule (Lady's .Slipper j has a large, solitary flower, borne on a 
stem from eight to twelve inches high. The flower is of a rosy purple color. The 
plant likes a moist location. 

Cypripedium parviflorum (Small Yellow Lady's Slipper j grows about twelve 
inches high, thriving well in moist soil and flowering from May to July. 

Cypripedium pubescens (Large Yellow Lady's Slipper; flowers in May and 
June. It has large, yellow flowers, spotted with brown ; the lip is pale yellow. It 
thrives well in wet soil or in low i)laces in the woods. 

Cypripedium spectabile or reginse is the showiest and finest of the hardy 
CypripediuiTis. It grows from one and one-half to two feet in height, thriving 
well in open, moist woods, meadows and peat bogs. The flowers are white with 
a large blotch of rosy carmine in front of the labellum. 

Cypripedium spectabile album is a pure white form of the preceding. 

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All the Cypri])C(liuins should be well supplied with peat or leaf mold, and the 
roots planted deep in the soil. A surface dressing of sphagnum moss will act as 
a mulch and retain the moisture when the jilants are in drv soil. 




CYPRIPEDIUM PUBESCENS-Lar«e Yellow Lady's Slipper 
This beautiful Orchid is found growing in the wild state in a Jrcat variety of soil conditions— in the wet hogs, in the moist 

"woods, and on dry -wooded hillsides 

Habenaria blephariglottis grows from one to two feet high, and bears beau- 
tiful fringed white flowers. It does well in wet boggy soil. 

Habenaria bracteata reaches a height of from eight to twelve inches. It 
thrives well in a moist, shady position, and bears small greenish flowers. 

[i66] 



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Habenaria ciliaris (Yellow Fringed Orchid j jiroduces bright orange yellow 
flowers with a distinct fringe. It does well in boggy soil. 

Habenaria dilatata grows about twelve inches high, has leafy stems, and pro- 
duces small white flowers. It thrives well in wet bogs. 

Habenaria fimbriata gives long spikes of lilac purple flowers also distinctly 
fringed. It delights in wet soil. 




* opyrightefl l>y II. I'. Kelsey, Salem, Maes. 

CYPRIPEDIUM REGINAE-Spcctabile 

Habenaria psycodes has handsome purple fragrant flowers, borne on a spike 
from five to ten inches in length. It should be planted in wet soil. 

The Habenarias like a soil composed of equal parts leaf mold or peat and 
sand, with a surface dressing of leaves or moss. 

Pogonia ophioglossoides grows from five to ten inches high, and bears pale 
rose colored flowers, sometimes white. It thrives in sphagnum moss or leaf mold, 
in wet locations, flowering from June to July. 

Spiranthes cernua (Nodding Ladies' Tresses) reaches a height of from six 



THE BOOK OF 
WA TER 
GARDENING 



to eighteen iiiclios. ami boars a dense spike o{ wliile llowers. It thrives well in 
moist, open soil. 

Sarracenia Drnniniomlii has beantifnlly variegated pitchers from one to two 
feet in length. The hood is marked white, red and green ; the white and purple 
flowers are from two to three inches across. This plant will not stand the Win- 
ters of the Northern States. 




SARR.\CK\1 A FL.WA-Pitchcr PLmt 

Suit.iblc tor moist soil at edge ot pond. Hardy at Washington, D. C, 



Sarracenia llava has narrow pitchers two to two and one-half feet long, yel- 
lowish green. 

Sarracenia psittacina has small pitchers, about six inches in length; they are 
green below, purple with white spots above. 'Hiis plant also requires to be win- 
tered in the greenhouse. 

[i68] 



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Sarracenia purpurea rSide Saddle I-'Iower; j^roduces pitchers which attain 
a length of from eight to twelve inches, green colored, with purple veins; the 
flowers are borne on stems from one to two feet high, and are two inches across; 
the petals are bright purple. This is the hardiest of the pitcher plants native from 
Labrador to Florida. 

Sarracenia rubra has pitchers from ten to fifteen inches in length, green with 
reddish veins ; the fiowers are reddish purple, three inches across. 




SARRACENIA PURPUREA 

Hardy anywlicre in tke United Statue 

Sarracenia variolaris produces a yellow flower about two inches wide; the 
pitchers measure from six to twelve inches in length, are yellowish white, varie- 
gated and veined with purple. 

Sarracenias thrive under semi-aquatic conditions. They are found growing 
wild in swamps and low, wet ground, from Labrador to Florifia. 

All of the Sarracenias named are hardy at Washington, D, C. Sarracenia 
purpurea is hardy anywhere in the United States ; the others, if planted in a pro- 

[169] 



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GARDENING 



tected corner, and covered with leaves or brnsli in Winter, shonld carry throug^h 
without injury. 

While the following^ are not pitciier plants, they require the same treatment, 
soil, etc., as arc afforded these, and may well be described here : 

DarlinjT^tonia Californica resembles the Sarracenias in many points, yet is 
quite distinct from them. Its leaves rise to a height of from one to two feet. 
The pitcher is slender, erect and twisted, having- a rounded head, with a large 
triangular reddish tongue depending from the aperture. The ground color is 
light green, while the upper i)art is mottled with white and covered with reddish 
pink veins. This plant likes a soil composed of peat and sphagnum moss, and 




DlONAtA MUSClPULA-Vc-ni,9 9 Hy Trap 
Deli^'hts in full sunliijht and plenty of moisture 

should be planted in a low wet location. It is pro])agatctl by the separation of the 
side shoots. Darlingtonia Californica is not hardv in the Northern States and 
should be removed to the greenhouse ; in warm sheltered corners it might survive 
the Winters, if well protected by brush or leaves. 

Dion?ea muscipula (Venus's Fly Trap) is a very interesting native perennial 
plant found growing wild in North Carolina. The leaves are in pairs, joined or 
hinged at the lower edge. On the upper edge of each leaf is a row of hairs that 
close on each other like a trap. On the inside of each leaf, toward its center, are 
three sensitive hairs that, if touched by an insect or other object, will cause the 

[170] 



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GARDENING 



leaf to close np imprisoning the insect or other intruder. The flowers are white, 
borne in terminal corymbs. The plant blooms from June to August. It will not 
stand the Winters of the Northern States out of doors, yet it will well repay the 
little extra trouble of wintering it in a cool greenhouse. The Dionaa should be 
planted in wet soil where it will have an abundance of moisture and full exposure 
to the sun. It will also grow in the shade but not so vigorously. The soil best 
suited to its wants is a fine fibrous peat with a surface dressing of sphagnum moss. 
Drosera filiformis is a very interesting little native bog plant, with long, 
slender leaves which are covered with little glandular hairs. The flowers are 
I)urp]e rose. It grows to a height of one foot in wet, swamjiy grounrl. 




RUSTIC HOUSE AT POND 

Covered with Roea Wichuraiana and Ampeloptis Virijinica. 



[I/I] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



CHAPTER XIX 

HARDY FERNS 

AMERICA is very fortunate in havini;- from sixty to sixty-five species of 
Ferns growing- wild throughout tlie Northeastern and Middle States. 
The most beautiful of them are found in the swamps or along the 
streams that flow through woods where plent\- of decaying humus is available. 

All of the hardy ]<>rns ])refcr a cool, rich light soil where thc\- will be pro- 
vided with an abundant supply of moisture and. with one or two exceptions, a 
well drained soil where the water will not stand and stagnate but pass off freely. 
They like a soil of light fibrous material. The best results will he obtained from the 
use of two-thirds good leaf mold, or ]ieat, and one-third sand. The Ferns will 
grow in any ordinary soil so long as their wants as to water and shade are sup- 
plied. They can be transplanted, with care, at any time of the year, but this 
should be done j)referably in the Spring or L'all months. Some can be planted at 
the edge of the pond, others beneath trees or shrubs, while Polypodium vul- 
gare, Asplenium trichomancs, C'heilanthes vestita, Nephrodium marginale and 
such like can be used in the crevices and fissures of the rocks or where the soil 
is thin and dry. 

Adiantum ])edatum (Hardy Alaidenhair Fern) is found growing wild in deep 
moist soil in the valleys and low places of shady woods, where the soil has been 
washed down from the heights above. In such dee]) rich material the stem, or 
stipe, often grows to a height of two feet, with fronds from twelve to fifteen 
inches across. 

Asplenium angustifolium (Xarrow-leaved Spleenwort) is a fine Fern, with 
light green graceful fronds, growing from one to three feet in height. The 
fronds are divided, the divisions being from two to four inches long. It likes a 
moist shady position. 

Asplenium filix-fcemina (Lady Fern) is a handsome subject growing to a 
height of two to three feet, with finely cut fronds. It should be planted in a moist 
k)cation either in the sun or shade. 

Botrychium \'irginianum is a native Fern, growing about a foot high, with 

[172] 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



a broad triangular frond. This fern likes a moist soil and a position where it will 
be shaded from the direct sunlight. 

Botrychium obliquum (ternatum) grows from six to twelve inches in height. 
It is not so finely divided as the preceding. It is suitable for o])en ])laces. 

Cystopteris bulbifera (Bladder Fern) grows to a height of from one to two 
feet, and has long, narrow slender fronds of light green color. It should have a 
moist shady position. 




FINE CLUMPS OF FERNS. WELL SUITED FOR A SHADY BANK NEAR POND 

To the left. Dennstaedtia punctilobula (Hay-scented Fern); in the center, Onoelca sensibilis (Sensitive Fern): to the right. 
Osraunda Claytoniana (Interrupted Fern). These thrive in rather poor dry soil 

Cystopteris fragilis is a smaller l^'ern, growing from four to eight inches 
high, with finely divided fronds. It should have a well-drained soil, in a shady 
position. 

Dennstaedtia jmnctilobula (Dicksonia pilosiuscula) is the PIay-.scented Fern, 
and has long, thin, pale green fronds, growing to a height of from one to two 
feet. This Fern will thrive in full sunlight, or in partially shady locations, doing 
well in moist soil that is well drained. 

Dryopteris Boottii is an intermediate form between Dryopteris cristatum and 

[173] 



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GARDENING 



Dryopteris spinulosa. and is quite at home in a wet position. It grows from one 
to one and one-half feet high and has evergreen fronds. It should be planted in 
moist soil in a shady spot. 

Dryopteris cristatum is found growing in wet, spongy soil in a shady place; 
it reaches to a foot in height, and has evergreen fronds. 

Dryopteris cristatum Clintonianum is a larger and more showy Fern than the 
preceding; it also thrives in wet soil in a shady place, growing from two to three 
feet in height. 




DRYOPTERIS MARGINALIS-Roek Shield Fern 

Growing naturally in a fissure in the rocks 

Dryopteris Goldieana is one of the largest and strongest of the hardy Ferns ; 
the fronds are from two to four feet in length, and twelve to eighteen inches wide. 
It likes a shady moist position. 

Dryopteris marginalis (Rock Shiekl Fern) is an evergreen I*"ern. with deep 
green fronds from one to two feet in length and from three to five inches in width. 
It likes a moist, shady place. In the accompanying illustration it is seen growing 
in a fissure of a rock with the common Polypody and the Christmas Fern for 
companions. 

Dryopteris Noveboracensis is a slender growing Fern, about twelve inches in 

[174] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



height; the fronds are from tliree to four inches wide. A rich, moist, shady posi- 
tion suits it best. 

Dryopteris spinulosa is a fine everj^^reen Fern, j^^rowin^^ to a heij^dit of fifteen 
to eighteen inches, with frc^nds from three to four inches in width. It, too, should 
have a moist shady j^lace. 




FRONDS OF FLOWERING FERNS 

Oemunda RcDalis — The Royal Fern Oemunda Cinnamomea — The Cinnsmon Fern 

Dryopteris Thelyjjteris (Marsh .Shield h'ernj grows about twelve inches 
high ; it has fronds two to three inches in width, and is found growing in open 
sunny jjlaces in wet soil. 

Lygodium palmatum (Climbing h^ern) grows with a slenrler, twining stem 
from one to three feet in height. It likes a moist shady position and should have 
some support. The crowns should be covered with leaves during Winter to pro- 
tect the plants from the frost. 

fi75] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



Matteuccia Struthiopteris (Onoclca Struthioptcris) is commonly called the 
Ostrich Fern. The fronds grow from two to four feet high and from six to ten 
inches wide. It is a fme graceful Fern, succeeding- well in shade or sunlight, in 
deep rich soil. 

C^noclea sensibilis (Sensitive Fern') is well suited for a wet position either in 
the sun or shade; it grows from one to three feet in height and has light green 
triangular frontls. divided into oblong lanceolate segments. 




PLANT OF OSMUNDA REGALIS 

Royal Fern 

Ophioglossum vulgatum (Adder's Tongue l-'ern) has a single leaf, growing 
from six to twelve inches in height, with a spike of spores at the apex. It likes 
a low wet position in the open. 

Osnuuula cinnamomea (Cimiamon l-'ern) is a beautiful plant, growing from 
three to five feet in height. The fronds are from six to eight inches wide ; the 
stems when young are covered with a rusty down. It is (juite at home in wet 
swampy soil in sun or shade. 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDEN MG 



Osmunda Claytoniana grows from two to three feet in height; it hkes a dry, 
shady position. 

Osmunda regah's f Royal J'"ernj is, without a rlouht, tlie best I'ern for the 
edge of the jjond. The accomi^anying illustration i-, rcpr'^rluced from a photo- 
graph of a plant growing at the edge of a lily pond. The I'ern is perfectly 
hardy, growing from three to five feet in height; the fronrls are pale green, nine 
to fifteen inches in wirlth. it delights in a wet, swampy position, in peaty soil ; 
hut it will also rlo well in shallow water if the crown of the roots is above the 
surface. 




li'^., 



>^ 







No. 1 — Adiantum pedatum 'Maidenhair Fern). No. 2 — Pteri« aqui'lina 'Brack«n '. No. .3 — PheiopUrit he^ajonoptera 'Broad 
Beech FernJ. No. 4 — Polystichum acroetichoides 'Christmas Fern). No. 5 — Nephrodium marginale — Aspidium marijinale 
(Marginal Shield Fern;. No. 6 — Nephrodium cristatum ''Crested Shield FernJ 

Phegopteris Dryopteris fOak Fernj is a pretty Fern growing from nine to 
tw^elve inches high. The triangular fronds are from three to five inches in width 
simply divided once or twice. It grows in shady places, in rich moist soil. 

Phegopteris hexagonoptera H^road Heech I-"ern; is a fine .subject for shady 
places, easily grown and quite showy; it makes fronds from seven to twelve 
inches wide, the plants growing about twelve inches high. 

Phegopteris polypodioides has small, dark green fronds, growing about eight 
inches high, in moist shady places. 

[1/7] 



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Polypodium vulgare is a dainty evergreen Fern, well suited for covering 
rocks. It grows in dense mats from four to ten inches high. It should have a 
partially shady position. If planted in the open it should be placed where it will 
be well supplied with moisture. 

Polystichum acrostichoides — Aspidium acrostichoides (Christmas Fern) is 
an evergreen Fern, growing from eight to eighteen inches high with deep green 
fronds simply divided. It does best in a well-drained, shady position. 

Pteris aquilina is the common Brake or Bracken, a large showy Fern, grow- 
ing two to three feet in height, with large triangular fronds. It likes a damp 
position in sun or shade. 

Woodwardia areolata — syn. W. angustifolia (Chain Fern) grows from nine 
to twelve inches high, and has fronds three to four inches wide. It likes a wet 

swampy soil. 

Woodwardia Mrginica grows from eighteen inches to two feet in height; 
the fronds are from three to five inches wide. This fern also will thrive in wet 
soil. 




4 




■^'H^^ 



L*!****^ 

:^,i/ 



"^^ 












^m^:^ 






\ 




No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 No. 4 

No. 1 — Woodwardia areolata (W. angustifolia). sterile and fertile fronds (^Chain Fern). No. 2 — Woodwardia Virginica 
(Virginia Chain Fern.) No. 3— Aspleniura angustifoliura. No. 4 — Asplenium filix foemina 



1/8] 



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CHAPTER XX 



ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND BAMBOOS 




THIS is a very inter- 
esting a n (1 useful 
class of plants for 
the decoration of the borders 
and margins of ponds. Some 
of the plants have green 
leaves and an upright habit 
of growth ; others have leaves 
striped with white, and nearly 
all have a slender, airy, grace- 
ful habit that contrasts well 
with the broader foliage of 
other plants and trees. 

The tallest of the grasses is 
the Arundo Donax (Giant 
Reed), a perennial grass, 
growing to a height of from 
eight to twenty feet, accord- 
ing to soil and location. The 
tiower plumes are from one 
ARUNDO DONAX MACROPHYLLA to two feet in length, borne 

on loose feathery spikes which are very showy. 

Arundo Donax variegata is a smaller plant than the foregoing, growing not 
more than twelve feet in height. The leaves are striped white. It is not quite as 
hardy as the type and, therefore, should have a protected location. Both should be 
protected in the Northern States, through the Winter months, with leaves or ever- 
green brush. 

Arundo Donax macrophylla glauca is a strong growing variety, with extra 
wide dark glossy green leaves, the under side of which are glaucous ; the stems 
are very close jointed. 

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Arundo phragmites variegata is a fine plant for wet soil, growing to a height 
of from four to six feet, bearing a large handsome panicle of purplish flowers. 
All of the Arundos are best increased by division of the crowns. 

Among the Bamboos the following will prove the hardiest. All of them 
should have their roots covered up with a good dressing of manure every Fall, 
and on top of the manure a covering of tree leaves or evergreen boughs to protect 
them from frost. 

Arundinaria Simoni is a fine plant, growing from ten to fifteen feet in height 
when well established ; the leaves are from ten to twelve inches long, occasionally 
striped white. 

Arundinaria Japonica (Bambusa ^letake) has leaves of from eight to ten 
inches in length and one to two inches wide ; the upper surface of a smooth 
glossy green ; the lower side glaucous and rough. 

Phyllostachys aurea (Bambusa aurea) will grow to a height of from fifteen 
to twenty feet when once established. The stems are yellow colored ; the leaves 
light green. The plant has a light and graceful efifect and is very suitable for the 
edge of the pond. The illustration on page i8i is reproduced from a photo- 
graph showing this plant at the edge of a water lily pond. 

Phyllostachys Henonis is one of the finest of this class of plants ; a very 
graceful variety, with glossy green leaves. The young stems are green turning to 
yellow as they become older. The plant grows to a height of from six to fifteen 
feet, according to soil and position ; the leaves are two to three inches in length 
and about one-half inch in width. 

Phyllostachys nigra (Black-stemmed) grows from eight to fifteen feet high. 
The stems are first green, quickly turning to black as they get older. The leaves 
are from two to six inches in length, green above with a glaucous reverse. 

Phyllostachys nigra punctata has yellow stems spotted black. 

Phyllostachys Quilioi grows about eighteen feet high; the leaves are from 
six to eight inches long, one to one and three-quarters inches wide, dark green 
spotted brown above and glaucous underneath. 

Phyllostachys violascens grows to a height of ten to thirteen feet, and has 
dark purple stems changing to brownish 3'ellow ; the leaves are from three to six 
inches long. 

Phyllostachys viridi-glaucescens is a beautiful, graceful Bamboo, growing to 
a height of eighteen feet. The leaves are from three to four inches long and 
about one inch wide. 

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All the Bamboos are propag-atcd by division of the roots in Sprini;- and, if 
possible, a ball of soil should be left with each division. Bamboos should be 
planted in some position where it will be possible to prevent the roots from ex- 
tending to any great distance, or they will soon overrun other plants. To produce 
the best effect they should be grown in clumps of large size and kept as close and 
compact as possible. 




PHYLLOSTACHYS AUREA-Bambusa aurea 
At the commercial establishment of H. A. Dreer. Inc., Riverton. N. J. 

Elymus Canadensis glaucifolius is a strong perennial grass growing from 
three to live feet high ; it has glaucous leaves from six to twelve inches in length. 
The flower spike is from four to nine inches long. 

Elymus glaucus grows about three to four feet high, and has narrow silvery 
glaucous foliage. The plants are propagated by division. 

Erianthus Ravennse is a beautiful hardy perennial grass of upright habit of 

[i8i] 



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growth. This plant resembles in habit of growth and flower plume the well 
known Pampas Grass. The leaves and stems are tinged with purple; the flower 
stems grow to a height of from five to ten feet. It should be planted in a deep 
rich soil with full exposure to the sun. It is propagated by seed and division. 




ERIANTHUS RAVENNAE 



Eulalia gracillimus (Eulalia gracillima univittata) has narrow green leaves 
with a narrow white stripe down the center of each. The plant grows from five 
to seven feet in height; the flower panicle is brown, large and showy. This is a 

[182] 



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very graceful variety, of beautiful round compact habit, the leaves drooping to 
the ground. It should be planted alone as a single specimen so as to develop its 
full beauty. 

Eulalia Japonica is a fine hardy perennial grass from Japan, of strong robust 
growth, reaching from six to nine feet in height. The flower panicle is brownish. 
The leaves are deep green, one and one-quarter inches wide, with a prominent 
white stripe down the center of cacli leaf ; they are from two to three feet long. 



W^^ *' W^^^ 





EULALIA GRACILLIMA UNIVITTATA 

Plant well adapted for Margin of Pond 

Eulalia Japonica zebrina is a variegated form of the preceding; its leaves 
are barred with alternate stripes of white and green. 

Eulalia Japonica variegata is dwarfer than those named. It grows to a 
height of from five to seven feet. The leaves are three-quarters inch wide and 
from one-half to two feet long ; striped longitudinally with white ; the stems are 
green and white tinted pink. See illustration page 185. 

All of the Eulalias are best propagated by division of the roots in Fall or 
Spring. They can be raised from seed but rarely come true. 

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Gynerium argenteum (Pampas Grass) is a beautiful subject where it 
thrives well. It grows to a height of from eight to ten feet, and bears long 
fluffy white plumes. Unfortunately it is rather tender, often suffering in our 
Winters from frost. It should be planted in a sheltered nook, and protected by 
a covering of tree leaves and evergreen branches through the Winter. The roots 
can also be taken up at the approach of frost, wintered in a cellar or cool green- 
house, and planted out early in Spring; the plants will then commence to grow 
at once and wall be sure to flower that season. It is propagated by division. 

Molinia coerulea variegata is a small perennial grass with variegated foliage, 
very useful for edging or for the front row in the border. It grows from one to 
three feet high. The leaves are beautifully striped with white. 

Panicum virgatum is a fine hardy native grass, growing from three to four 
feet high. The leaves are twelve to fifteen inches in length. The flower is pur- 
plish, borne on a tall branching panicle. 

Panicum altissimum is similar to the preceding, growing from three to four 




GYNERIUM ARGtNltUM -Pampas Grass 
Grows to a height of from eight to ten feet and bears long fluffy white plumes 

[184] 



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feet high; it has dark brown flower panicles. The plants arc propa.i,^ated by di- 
vision of the roots in Spring or Fall. 

Phalaris arundinacea variegata (Gardeners' Garters) is a fine low-growing, 
variegated hardy perennial grass, from two to three feet in height ; the leaves are 
striped white. 

Uniola latifolia is a native perennial grass, growing to a height of from three 
to four feet ; it has large, loose drooping flower panicles. 




EULALIA JAPONICA VARIEGATA 

A beautiful grass with -white stripes running lengthwise. The leaves of this plant make a fine display on the edge of a 

Water Garden 



185] 



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GARDENING 



CHAPTER XXI 

INSECTS, DISEASES AND ENEMIES 




T 



,HE water garden is not free from 

insect and other pests of various 

kinds ; therefore, the same watchful 

care is required with water HUes as in the 

case of other plants, so as to keep these enemies 

in check. 

Aphides 

The black aphides will put in an appearance 
early in the year, especially when the weather is dry and hot with no rainfall. 
These insects will first be noticed on the leaf stems of the Nymphaeas and 
Nelumbiums that rise above the water and, if not checked at this stage, they 
will soon spread over the leaves. The best way to destroy the aphides is 
to use the hose, or spray pump, with a good pressure of water, going over 
the plants carefully and knocking off the insects into the water where the 
gold fish will soon make short work of them. The force of the water will 
kill a great many of the aphides but, as some always escape and get on the 
plants again, these should be hosed once every day for two or three days or until 
the aphides are eradicated. Slug Shot and Tobacco Dust are excellent insecti- 
cides for aphides and other insect pests ; their use, however, leaves the plants 
in a rather unsightly condition, the leaves being covered with the powder 
until washed ofif by rain or the hose, and then again these insecticides are no more 
effectual than the clear water applied with force. 

A Destructive Leaf Joiner 
Within the last few years a very destructive leaf miner has appeared in 
water lily ponds. This insect has been identified by the United States Bureau 
of Entomology at Washington, D. C, as the larva of Chironomus modestus, Say., 
a midge of the family Chironomidae. The larva is very small, from one-eighth to 
one-quarter of an inch in length and about one thirty-second of an inch in 

[i86] 



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diameter. It eats its way along the surface of the leaf leaving- channels behind it 
that are very unsightly, as well as working considerable damage by weakening the 
plant through the loss of the leaves. This and all other chewing insects can be 
kept under control, if not entirely exterminated, by the use of Slug Shot, which 
is best applied in the dry powdered condition in which it is marketed, by being 
blown through a powder bellows. It should be applied toward evening, as it will 
then be more effective, and should be evenly distributed over the surface of the 
leaves. The leaves can also be sprayed with kerosene emulsion through a very 
fine nozzle of the Velmorel type, or such as is used for spraying fruit trees with 
Bordeaux mixture. This will allow of a very fine spray being applied to the sur- 
face of the leaves, wetting them thoroughly, with the expenditure of a very small 
quantity of liquid. For the best results the emulsion should be applied late in the 
afternoon and every part of the leaves should be coated. These insecticides, if 
applied as directed, will not harm the fish in the pond. Whatever the material 
used, it will take several applications to clear the leaves entirely of the miner, 
which is an enemy that should be watched for closely, and as soon as its work is 
observed measures should be taken immediately to exterminate the pest. 

The y^ym^haea Leaf-Beetle {GaTeruceVa J^ym^lxaea, Linn.) 

The Nymphcxa leaf-beetle is another enemy that causes considerable damage 
to flower petals and the upper surface of the leaves, especially to those of the 
Victoria regia. The beetle measures about one-quarter of an inch in length ; when 
matured it lays its eggs on the surface of the leaf in clusters of from six to 
twenty ; they are bright yellow ovate in form, the larvfe are bluish black above, 
yellow on the under surface, of elongate form, and when full grown measure 
three-eighths of an inch in length, widest in the center, tapering toward each ex- 
tremity. This beetle is very common over the Eastern States, and is reported 
from many of the Central and Western States, therefore it will soon become 
general all over the country. Slug Shot, applied in the dry powdered form, will 
be found a good remedy for this insect. One part Paris green mixed with 50 
parts of air slaked lime or road dust and blown over the leaves with a powder 
bellows will be found an excellent remedy as well as the above. 

Other Larval Pests 

Another insect that causes considerable damage to the Nymphaea leaves is 
the larva of the Hydrocampa proprialis. This insect cuts two pieces from the 
leaves of the lilies and attaches itself between them so that it is completely hidden 

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from sight, as also from its enemies. The pieces of leaves, being lighter than the 
water, float on the surface, in this way acting as a boat for the insect, which is 
enabled by this means to be carried by the wind current from one plant to another, 
eating its way as it goes, very much in the same manner as the bag worm carries 
its covering around with it when feeding. This is a rather difficult insect to kill. 
The remedies previously recommended will be effective to a certain extent, 
but the best method of eradication is to keep a sharp outlook for these small 
floating pieces of leaves, with the larvae attached, and to crush them. A lamp 
trap is often suggested to catch the mature insect, but as that instrument never 
discriminates between friend and foe it is very apt to do as much harm as good. 
This trap is composed of an ordinary lantern which is stood in a pan of w'ater 
with a film of kerosene oil on the surface ; the insects are attracted to the light 
and, striking the glass, they fall into the oily water and are killed. 

Nelumbiums are often attacked by the larva of Botis nelumbialis. This larva 
attacks the edge of the leaf, rolling the leaf over itself and gumming it down so 
as to hold it in position, thus affording the insect a safe place of retreat when at- 
tacked. It is a voracious eater and soon destroys entirely the edges of the leaves. 
The only eft'ectual way to combat this pest is to pinch with the fingers the rolled 
up edge in which the larva is hidden. This, of course, can only be done in the 
case of small collections; however, if the work is attended to promptly as soon 
as the larva makes its appearance, the object can be accomplished quickly and 
easily. In large collections, where hand extermination is out of the question, the 
plants can be dusted with Slug Shot or any other arsenical preparation. The 
kerosene emulsion will not adhere to the leaves of the Nelumbium. therefore is 
useless against this pest. 

J\ Fungoia Ijisease 

A fungous disease, of the Cercosporae genus, sometimes attacks the leaves of 
N}'mphseas, causing spots to appear on them and the edges to dry and turn up. 
This fungus should be checked as soon as noticed or it will spread to other plants. 
The best results have been obtained by spraying with a weak solution of Bor- 
deaux mixture, using the preparation at about half the strength usually recom- 
mended for other plants. This should be applied in the form of a fine misty spray, 
thoroughly wetting every part of the leaf. The affected plants should be sprayed 
every other afternoon until the disease is eradicated. Any of the preparations 
on the market having sulphate of copper in their composition will check this 

[i88] 



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fungoid growth. It can also be checked by picking off and l^nniing all the spotted 
leaves. If the leaves are removed and destroyed as soon as the spots are observed, 
the disease can be checked cjr entirely eradicated before much damage is done. 

Algae ana Confervae 

This is a general name given to small fungoid plants that live in the water. 
They are very destructive to seedling Nymphasas. adhering to the small leaves 
and stems and choking the life out of the plants. This fungus is almost sure to 
make its appearance if a very high temperature has been maintained in the tank, 
or if too much manure has been used in the soil in whicJT the plants arc growing. 
The growth takes the form of long, green, threaddike stems, closely matted to- 
gether, and these hold so closely to the plants that it is difficult to remove them. 
The best remedy is to have plenty of fish in the water and to look closely after 
the temperature and the manure in the soil. 

A very effective means of getting rid of some forms of algx, and especially 
of that form which is so injurious to the young seedlings, is to use twenty-three 
grains of copper suli)hate to every one thousand gallons of water. This strength 
will not injure the plants or the fish, but if a greater proportion of copper is em- 
ployed it is liable to kill both plants and fish. 

Rats ana JYlice 

The muskrat is another l)a(l enemy of the water garden. These animals 
make holes in the banks of the ])on(ls, if of clay. They are partial to the roots 
of the Nelumbiums, which they soon destroy ; they also eat the roots of some of 
the hardy lilies. Every means should be employed to kill them, such as trapping, 
shooting, etc. A good way is to set a price on their heads and apprise the small 
boy that he will get so much for every muskrat he kills. In trapping the musk- 
rat the trap should be set at the opening of the hole, and to one side of it, so that 
when the rat enters it will be caught by one foot. If the trap is placed in the 
center of the run there is less chance of catching the animal. 

Mice are also destructive, eating both seeds and roots that are stored for 
Spring use ; it is well, therefore, to keep the stock where the mice cannot get at it. 

In the milder climates, field mice are very destructive to the roots of hardy 
water lilies in the Winter months, where the water is drawn off and the plants 
are left in the pond until Spring and simply covered with leaves or straw. The 
best wav to get rid of these rodents is by the use of traps that can be baited with 

[189] 



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grain, or by grain soaked in strychnine strewed in their runs. The latter, of 
course, should be used with caution and not placed where it may fall into the 
hands of children or where any valuable animal can get at it. 

The yv'ater Snake 

The water snake is another of the enemies of the Water Garden to be watched 
for and exterminated. It is very partial to fish and frogs ; but as the latter can 
be dispensed with, if the snake would confine himself to a diet of frogs he would 
be a benefactor rather than an enemy. It is very exasperating, however, to see 
a snake with a choice gold fish in its mouth. These snakes should be killed on 
sight. It is always well to have a small 22-caliber rifle handy and to be well sup- 
plied with shot; for the snake will make its appearance when least expected. 

lurt/es 

Turtles are also a nuisance and should never be allowed in a pond if it is 
possible to keep them out, which is not always the case, especially in natural 
ponds. The turtles destroy the seed vessels of the lilies and the young growths. 

Crawpsn 

Crawfish are also destructive to the banks of the pond, if formed of clay, 
which thev penetrate, causing leaks at the most unexpected places. An excellent 
way to get rid of crawfish is to poison some chopped meat with Paris green, plac- 
ing it around the edge of the pond where they are at work. The meat should be 
covered, so that while available to the crawfish no animal of value can reach it. 




[190] 



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GARDENING 



CHAPTER XXII 

GOLD AND OTHER FISH FOR PONDS 

IN ponds and other basins or tanks where water lilies or other aquatic plants 
are grown, it is necessary to have some kind of fish to keep down insect life 
in the larval stage, otherwise the ponds will become a nuisance, and count- 
less numbers of mosquitoes be bred and reared to the adult stage in the water. 
The mosquito must have water in which to deposit its eggs ; these are laid in 
large numbers on the surface of the water. They are long and slender, and 
stand up side by side. At the end of fifteen days the young larvae hatch and 
crawl out at the lower end of the eggs; they are then called wrigglers, from 
the wriggling motion of their propulsion through the water. There are always 
numbers of them in the rainwater barrel, where they can be studied further. 
The breathing pore is located near the end of the body ; therefore, when at the 
surface, they always appear head down with this part above the water. The 
larvse grow rapidly, soon reaching the pupal stage, and in a few days more are 
transformed into the perfect winged insect. It is in the larval and pupal stages 
of the insects that the gold fish are most useful as exterminators of the mos- 
quito, as they eat up the wrigglers as fast as they are hatched, never allowing 
any to reach the winged stage. 

This description of the breeding of the mosquito may be thought outside 
the scope of this chapter, but as every owner of a pond is morally responsible to 
the general public to see that no mosquitoes are bred in such ponds, too much 
stress cannot be laid on the fact that, to prevent this, a sufficient number of gold 
fish should be kept, and one can deal more intelligently with a subject of this 
character under this full understanding. The fish are also serviceable in keeping 
in check the black and green aphis. They are also useful in eating up large 
quantities of the decaying leaves of the water plants. 

Only such fish should be used as will not injure the roots or stems of the 
water lilies. The best for all purposes is, without a doubt, the gold fish, as they 
never harm the plants except when young plants have been set out and not 

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properly proleclcd b}- gravel or coarse sand; in which case they will dig in 
the soil and very soon have the plants floating on the snrface of the W'ater. 

The gold fish is very hardy, of beautiful color, and has great variety in 
form of body, tail and eyes. Especially fine are certain of the fantail gold fish 
from Japan, some of the rarest of which will frequently command a price of 
seventy-five dollars per pair. The common gold fish can be obtained in all parts 
of America at a very reasonable cost. Once a pond is stocked with a few 
fish, they breed so fast, if afTorded suitable protection from their enemies, that 
where five or six are ])ut into the iiond, the year following there will be as 
many hundreds. 

All gold fish belong to the Carj) family (Crassius). They are very hardy 
and easil\- sent long distances by express. 

Gold fish are often attacked by a fungous disease which in appearance re- 
sembles cotton wool adhering to the scales or fins. The best treatment for this 
trouble is to give the sick fish a salt liath, composed of a tablespoonful of salt 
to a (|uart of water; in this they should be kept until they begin to show 
signs of distress bv turning over on their sides as if alxxit to die. They should 
then be ])ut l)ack into fresh water and kept separate from other fish until 
thorougliK- recovered, which will be soon if the disease has not progressed 
too far. ( >ne thing to remember is that in jnn-chasing fish which have been 
taken from a crowded tank, thev never should be ass(uSated with other fish 
until thev have been put through this salt bath, otherwise they may bring this 
fungous growth with them. Similar treatment should be given fish grass, 
purchased for an aquarium or to be placed in the pond, especially if taken from 
an a(|uarium that is overstocked with fish, as the fungus may be transferred 
with the plants. 

The gold fish likes to have a shady spot to resort to when the sun is hot. 
This shade, in the Summer months, will be afi^orded by the lily leaves and other 
])lant growth. In the aquarium it can be provided by the plants mentioned in 
the chapter on "Miscellaneous Aquatic I'lants." 

Gold fish are easily tamed and can be taught to eat from the hand in a little 
time. 1 1' they are fed regularly at the same place they become accustomed to it 
and will come to that place whenever they see anyone approaehing. In the pond 
it is not necessary to feetl the fish as there is always an abundance of insect life 
there to provide them with food. In the aquarium the fish nuist be fed regularly, 
twice a day on suitable food. Do not give them more than thev will readily 



THE BOOK OF 

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GARDENING 



consume at each feeding time, leaving none to decay and pollute the water. An 
excellent food for gold fish is vermicelli broken up into very fine pieces. Wheat 
or rice that has been boiled and then crushed is also a suital)le food for them. 

The gold fish will breed in ponds, tanks and large a(|naria, de[)ositing their 
spawn among the stems and leaves of submerged plants, to which it adheres; 
therefore, a numl)er of those plants should always be kept in the water with the 




The illustrations in the two upper panels show the straight-tailed gold fish, Carassius auratus (common gold fish) 
This and its many varieties are the best fish for aquaria and Water Lily ponds 

The illustration in the lower panel is that of Idus idus (Golden Ide — Golden Orphe). a beautiful yellow colored fish, 
restless, quick in motion, feeding near the surface, therefore almost always in sight 

fish. The eggs hatch, if the temperature of the water is right, in from four to 
seven days. When first hatched the fish are very tiny, with a large, round sack 
attached to the abdomen; this they gradually absorb within a few days. When 
in the small .stage the young fish are dark colored, so that it takes a sharp eye 
to detect them swimming around just under the surface of the water. This dark 
coloring is a natural protection to hide them from their enemies. As they get 
older they go deeper and dee])er into the water, until in from sixty to eighty days 
they begin to take on the beautiful gold color of the adult. 

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In stocking a pond with gold fish, if one fish for every i,ooo gallons of 
water is allowed, this will be found a good balance. It is not to be understood 
that no more fish than the number mentioned should be allowed in the pond, 
but this will be found a good guide in figuring out the number of breeders that 
should be bought to start with. 

The straight tailed gold fish has a plump, symmetrical body, reaching its 
greatest depth at the beginning of the dorsal and ventral fins. The widest part 
is at the shoulders, just behind the gill covers near the back; from here the body 
tapers gradually to the tail. The adult gold fish often reaches a length of from 
twelve to fifteen inches and a depth of from three to five inches. 

The finest and most beautiful of the gold fish family are the Japanese fan- 
tailed. They are of bright colors and graceful form, with long, flowing fins and 
tails. There are five well established varieties of Japanese gold fish that can be 
bought here. The Wakin (ordinary) is shaped nearly the same as the common 
gold fish. The body is long and slender, the tail is single or split open, forming 
a three-lobed tail. This fish is bright gold colored, or variegated with white or 
black. 

The Ryukin, or Loochoo, has a short body and a rounded, bulged abdomen; 
the tail and fins are long and flowing, often much longer than the body. 

The Ranchu, round or lion-headed gold fish, has a rather broad head, a very 
short globular bodv, short tail, and is without the dorsal fin. The old fish develop 
a number of wart-like protuberances all over the head, making it look like a low 
coxcomb, hence the name "Lion-head." 

The Oranda-Shishigashira, or Dutch lion-headed gold fish, is a cross between 
the Ryukin and the Ranchu. It has a body somewhat like that of the Ryukin, 
with the dorsal fin. When two or three years old the wart-like protuberances of 
the Ranchu begin to develop. 

The Deme, or Telescope fish, has large, protruding eyes arranged sidewise 
on the head. The body is short, of yellowish color, often variegated with black 
in irregular patches all over the body. In the young state the eyes are about 
normal, and only begin to protrude as the fish gets older. 

"Of all the extraordinary and odd-looking fishes, the Deme-ranchu," says 
Prof. Mitsukuri, "certainly is far in the lead in many respects, and is interesting 
as showing how far man can proceed in modifying nature. It is a telescope-fish 
with a short globular body, without the dorsal fin. The eyes have assumed a 
most extraordinary position. The ordinary telescope-fish is odd enough, with the 

[194] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 




TYPES OF FINE JAPANESE GOLD FISH 

Several are shown in varied positions 



[195] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



eyi's protnuliiii;-, hul in (his Naiirty dislocation has gone one step further. The 
eyes lia\e not only started out ol" the head, hut have tnrned upward 90 degrees, 
and have their pupils looking straight skywaril. l"or this reason I should be 
inclined to call this the 'astronomical telesco])e-hsh.' As a hsh, it is sc^) monstrous 
that it gives one almost uncomfortahle feelings." 

The ( iolden Tench (Tinea aureus) is atu^her tlsh suitable for the water lily 
pond. It is a handsome specimen, of a beautiful \ellow color tinted with deej) 
gold, and spotted with small, irri'gidar black spots. It increases rapidb in the 
pond, and grows to a length of fi'om ten to tlfteen inches. Its habits and food 
are similar to thost' of the gold hsh. 

The ( ioldc-n Ide — (Iolden ( )rphe (bins idus, Linn.) is a beantifid I'lsh for 
tlk' pond or a(|uarium. It is a hardy, graceful, restless fish, alwa\s in motion and 
is therctort.' more olten noticed than the mine sluggish gold hsh. The back and 
upper ])arts of the side are orange colored, with a few black si)ots, becoming 
sibery as it nears the lali-ral line. The iuis are white, tinged with silver. This 
lish grows to a leuglh oi twenty-four inches, and is espt'cially desirable for ponds 
and fountain basins, owing to the fact that it seeks its food in the water near 
the smMace and is therefore nearly always visible, which is not the case 
with the gold lish. The Ide ne\cr burrows in the mud on the bottom of 
the pinid in search oi its ftuiil; thus the water is kept very clear. The 
Ide cats small tish, tadpoles and insects; therefore, it is uoi advisable to have 
Ides in the same pond with other lish. It increases very slowly, owing to the 
fact that its spawning time is in April, when there is still danger of enough 
frost to kill the \()ung. 

The Paradise I'ish ( Macropodns viridus) is a beautiful specimen, well suited 
for the pond in Summer but not in Winter as it is verv tender ami re(|uires to 
be kept in water above 50 ; at s])awning time it nuist have a temperature of 80" 
tt) 90 . Jt is a very lively, voracious fish, eating large ninnbers of black fly and 
other harmful insects. The adult fish measures from four to five inches in length. 
The male is brilliantly colored all over the body; seen in the sunlight his side 
scales glisten with all the colors of the rainbow. The female is less showv and 
becomes of a pale whitish color before spawning time. The Paradise Fish should 
never be jilaced with t>ther fish or they will immediatelv attack them, especially 
the gold fish. 

The fish named above are tiie best for the water garden for the reasons al- 
readv stated. It is wise, however, to select one kind, and tt) have no other fish 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



in the pond, for in cliang^in^ |)lants from onr poiul to another there is always 
the danger of introducing fish eggs with the ])laiils, therehy getting what may he 
termed an unwise combination. 

iMsh that should never he kept with the gold fish are bass, catfish, eels, sun- 
fish and perch, h'rogs and turtles should he rUharrecl as well, as they eat the 
spawn and the young fish. Aiujtiier enemy is the water snake, which will con- 
sume a large number of the fish. 

The little blue heron is a fre()uenl visitor to ponds containing fish, of which 
it will soon deplete tlie pond if allowed l(;. As it is a rather shy creatin-(.' a man 
should be secreted in the shrubs or growth around the pond, with a good slK)tgun, 
ready to kill the bird on sight. It is frequently claimed that these herons do not 
catch fish, but merely feed on beetles, etc. 'J'his, however, is not the case; they 
will catch and eat fish as (pn'ckly as any other of their foods. 

Another robber for which a sharj) lookout must be kejjt is the kingfisher. 
This bird is well named, for it is indeed a "king of fishers." If a tall tree be near 
the pond the bird will j)erch on a branch overhanging the jjfjnd whence it swoojjs 
flown ui)on the fish, very rarely missing its mark. T'he kingfisher will also hover 
on the wing over the pond, circling aroimd it, ready to dart down on a fish at 
an opportune moment. This bird is a rather small mark for the gunner, but every 
means should be taken to get rid of it. Sometimes it can be caught in a trap 
baited with a fish placed where the kingfisher is likely to see it. 

Other enemies are the larv;e of the dragon fly, which are very destructive 
to the young fish as well as to the sjiawn. The adult dragon flies sIkjuM be 
caught with a net and destroyed. y\nother ]>est of the fisli j)ond is the water 
boatman. This insect is about half an inch in length. 'J'he body is of a dark 
brownish yellow. The insect floats on its back, being propelled by two oar-like 
legs exteufled at riglit angles to its body. Its beak is very sharp aiifl capable fjf 
inflicting a very severe wound on the hands if the insect is not carefully manipu- 
lated. It is especially destructive to yrjung fish. Swimnn'ng uiKlerneath them, and 
catching them with its forelegs, it quickly buries its beak in the fish, never releas- 
ing its holfl until it has extracted all the nutriment it can obtain. 

The best way to exterminate all the beetle pests is, wherever it is jxjssible, 
to have an annual cleaning of the ponds and tanks, drawing off all the water and 
refilling with clean water. This should be done in Spring when the work of 
dividing and replanting the water lilies is going on. At the same time the fish 
can be gone over anrl the undesirable ones removed. This is necessary to keep 

[J 97] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



the stock pure, as the young of the fantails will sometimes revert to the straight 

tail, etc. 

The following observations on gold fish from an old writer may prove an 

interesting conclusion to this chapter: 

From "The General History of China," translated from the French of P. Du 

Halde by R. Brooks, printed in London by John Watts, in 1736: 

"The farther Knowledge that I have gain'd from the Chinese who deal in 

these small fish, and get their livelihood by breeding and selling them, hath given 

me occasion to make these following Observations : 

"i — Tho' they are commonly no longer than one's Finger, there are some grow 
to be as long and as thick as Herrings. 

"2 — It is not the red or white colour that distinguishes the Male from the Fe- 
male ; the Females arc distinguished by little white Spots about their Gills, 
and little Fins that are near them; and the Males are known by having these 
Places bright and shining. 

"3 — Tho' they commonly have the Tail in the shape of a Tuft, yet many have 
them like those of other b'ish. 

"4 — Besides the small I'.alls of Paste which they are fed with they give them the 
Yolk of a boil'd Egg, lean Pork dried in the Sun, and reduced to very fine 
Powder ; they sometimes put Snails into the Vessel where they are kept, 
because their Slime sticks to the sides of the Vessel, and is an excellent 
Ragout for these little Creatures, who drive away each other from it that 
they may suck it themselves ; there are also little red Worms found in the 
Water of some Reservoirs, which they are very greedy of. 

"5 — It is seldom that they multiplv when they are shut up in these Vessels, be- 
cause their Limits are so small ; for if you would have them breed you must 
put them in Reservoirs, where the Water is fresh and deep in some places. 

"6 — When the Water is drawn out of the Well to fill the Vessel where the Fish 
are put, it is necessary to let it settle four or five Hours, otherwise it would 
be too raw and unwholesome. 

"7 — If you perceive tliat the Fish are spawning, which happens about the Begin- 
ning of May, you should scatter Grass upon the Surface of the Water that 
the Spawn may adhere thereto, and when you perceive that the Spawning 
is over, that is when the Males cease to follow the Females, the Fish must 
be taken out of the Vessel and put into another, that the Vessel that has the 
Spawn may be exposed in the Sun for three or four Days, and the Water 
must be changed in about forty or fifty, because the small Fry begin then to 
appear distinctly." 

[198] 



THE BOOK OF 

WATER 

GARDENING 



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